wheel spacers
- Thread starter 1993yj
- Start date
just to clear things up :
wheel spacer
wheel adapter
note the 1st one is illegal, despite being OEM on some dodge, and toyota trucks.
the second is not illegal as it bolts to the axle,then the wheel bolts to it. making this illegal will make all duallies illegal as they all come with these in the front (usually cast iron, and shaped abit differently).
i run 2" wheel adapters myself. thats as wide as i would go because of stress on steering components. you might consider different offset rims as well.
wheel spacer
wheel adapter
note the 1st one is illegal, despite being OEM on some dodge, and toyota trucks.
the second is not illegal as it bolts to the axle,then the wheel bolts to it. making this illegal will make all duallies illegal as they all come with these in the front (usually cast iron, and shaped abit differently).
i run 2" wheel adapters myself. thats as wide as i would go because of stress on steering components. you might consider different offset rims as well.
ALF
SURE!?
- Location
- Taylorsville
I'm running wheel spacers with now problems!
MRJ
Just a user
- Location
- Draper, UT
just to clear things up :
wheel spacer
wheel adapter
note the 1st one is illegal, despite being OEM on some dodge, and toyota trucks.
the second is not illegal as it bolts to the axle,then the wheel bolts to it. making this illegal will make all duallies illegal as they all come with these in the front (usually cast iron, and shaped abit differently).
i run 2" wheel adapters myself. thats as wide as i would go because of stress on steering components. you might consider different offset rims as well.
The second one is still considered a wheel spacer. A wheel adapter would be to change the lug patern.
I am running 1-1/4" spacers due to new wheels. I would recomend running the thinnest spacer you can get away with. You will start to affect your scrub radius with too much spacing. Also you are adding a ton of stress to the ball joints or knuckle bearings.
myota
my toyota
- Location
- south SL,UT
I ran some 1.5" wheel adapters. My tires vibrated so bad that my lugs fell off and my tire bounced down the road ahead of me, but the wheel adapters where still securely on! In fact, it was a huge PITA to loosen them to remove since they were on so tight.
I'm running 2" adapters on my CJ. No problems yet. They do add some stability but do make it hard to get it past safety with out wider fender flares. If I had the chioce I wold go with a rim with a bigger offset than to use spacers. Same effect but there is less to go wrong, less bolts to loosen, etc.
My rims are offset pretty well, and my jeep only sees pavement a few times a year. I eventually want to go to full width axles, was just toying with the idea to add some stability for the mean time, but didnt like the idea of adding more stress to an already weak front axle (D30). I may still do something in the rear, as my Ford 8.8 is a bit narrower than the front D30, but dont know if it is really worth it. Kinda got the idea from the Toyota guys who throw in later rear axles that are 3" wider, and then use spacers up front to even things out again.
And ALF, what size are you running, and for how long?
And ALF, what size are you running, and for how long?
ALF
SURE!?
- Location
- Taylorsville
1.5" they've seen 4 trail runs now.
MRJ
Just a user
- Location
- Draper, UT
I agree if you had to take the spacer off the red loctite Spidertrax provides will be a pain, but to take the rotor off you do not need to remove the spacer. Now to replace the rotor that's the kicker.
Plus, the Toy IFS rear axle is about 1.5" wider than a Toy front axle.
Right now my rear axle is about 1.5" narrower than my front. My initial thoughts were to go with 1.5" spacers on the front and 2" on the rear, leaving the rear stance just .5" narrower overall. I am thinking that since I already clear everything just fine with the wheels that I currently have it may just be worth it to put that $150 or so for spacers into the full width axles I want to do. Not that it will make much of a dent in building them, but I dont know if 3" overall track width is worth it.
What backspace rims do you run? This makes a difference. For instance some of us toyota guys run 2" backspace rims. This would have the same effect on bearings etc as running 1.75" spacers with stock rims. (assuming the same wheel width.)
If you feel like you are unable to take certain lines due to unstability then do it, if not don't get them.
I will be adding spacers to my rig because I am increasing my tire size, and I didn't want to lose the stability I had before. I didn't like the valve stem placement on any of the cheap rims, so I will be using stock tacoma rims, and spacers instead.
FWIW there are cheap spacers on ebay. I have heard one report and it was good. Need to research them some more...well so much for the quick reply
If you feel like you are unable to take certain lines due to unstability then do it, if not don't get them.
I will be adding spacers to my rig because I am increasing my tire size, and I didn't want to lose the stability I had before. I didn't like the valve stem placement on any of the cheap rims, so I will be using stock tacoma rims, and spacers instead.
FWIW there are cheap spacers on ebay. I have heard one report and it was good. Need to research them some more...well so much for the quick reply
Brett
Meat-Hippy
- Location
- Salt Lake City Utah
I'm running 1" spacers front and rear, just cause I still have stock rims. The rear tires were rubbing the springs on the stock rims. I still want to get new rims someday......
myota
my toyota
- Location
- south SL,UT
Will you please explain this?
1st, yota guys use spacers up front b/c ifs rears are 3" wider than SFA...as I Lean said.
2nd, with a wider axle steering radius is larger making steering more difficult...not easier
3rd, I have heard the opossite. If your front is narrower you can get into tighter turns. If your rear is wider you will hit the obstacle on your sliders and it will push you out.
4th, please explain!
