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Isuzu Where to go from here? (tie rod)

driver920

driver920

Active Member
Location
West Valley
i would tend to agree with bryson on the cost, and if the aftermarket kit is strong enough to eliminate the problem i say go that way i will be the first to admit my import knowledge is somewhat limited in the aftermarket parts scene, but i think if you took a few mesurements and some leg work it can be a bit cheeper but the parts being available at most any parts store is the deciding factor for me anyway as i see it i want to do my up grade or repair today, not in two weeks when the part gets shipped to me
 
zukijames

zukijames

Well-Known Member
Location
not moab anymore
bryson said:
Heims are noisy and clunky on a DD. Tie rod ends are smooth and quiet. If anything, thread some tube (or weld in bungs if you like that kind of thing...) and use TREs instead of heims for a DIY solution.
Click to expand...


thanks i didnt think about them being noisy and clunky that would get annoying on a dd
 
zukijames

zukijames

Well-Known Member
Location
not moab anymore
this is the reason why i dont like tie rod ends.. they break.. then you have to finish the trail like this

24218221.jpg



tre was only 3 months old! but i was driving like an idiot and had blown my 12 inch air shocks and went to 16's mounted in the same spot so i had alot more down travel and was maxing out the tre
 
sixstringsteve

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Spork said:
What do you do when you're out wheeling and break a critical part that no one carries? Or is that the reason everyone drives a Jeep or a Toyota? When I was in the parts store another guy that had a Land Rover was in looking for parts also so I don't believe it's an exclusive club.
Click to expand...

fwiw, I have the toughest time finding toyota parts in Moab. We were looking for trunion bearings and couldn't find them anywhere in town. In most other towns, Toyota parts are easy to find, but I struggle to find what I need in Moab. Oh, and Alljeep.com's Davy and Skippy rock. Those guys are the greatest.
 
Stephen

Stephen

Who Dares Wins
Moderator
Location
Never Far From Nowhere
Spork, for what you are shooting to do, I'd either get some stock replacement tie rods or go with the Independent 4X upgrades. Since it's broken, great time to do the upgrade if you want to drop the coin.
I'll be out at the yards this week sourcing some parts for my new '94 Troopy, so if you want me to get a tie rod, I'd be happy to.
 
bryson

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
zukijames said:
this is the reason why i dont like tie rod ends.. they break.. then you have to finish the trail like this

24218221.jpg



tre was only 3 months old! but i was driving like an idiot and had blown my 12 inch air shocks and went to 16's mounted in the same spot so i had alot more down travel and was maxing out the tre
Click to expand...

That break certainly wasn't the TRE's fault... A heim mounted the same way would have kersploded too. Unfortunately, everything can break, and usually will at the worst possible moment.
 
UFAB

UFAB

Well-Known Member
Location
Lehi Ut
You find the TRE ends that fit with a male stud, UFAB will machine you some links and supply Jam nuts. Don't forget LH and RH parts
 
Spork

Spork

Tin Foil Hat Equipped
Location
Saratoga Springs, UT
So after spending way too much time looking at tie rod ends and schematics and dimensions I found this:
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Number=648635&page=0

Part #s for TREs:
Moog, McQuay-Norris, Perfect Circle (Dana):
ES262L / ES262R

The original discussion was for 1st gen Troopers but part numbers are the same between a 1st gen and the 2nd when looking at replacements. (center adjuster is just different lengths).

The ES262L/R look like they were for International vehicles.
About $25 for the R and $44 for the L

I'd still need to validate dimensions but it's looking promising.
 
Spork

Spork

Tin Foil Hat Equipped
Location
Saratoga Springs, UT
Stephen said:
Spork, for what you are shooting to do, I'd either get some stock replacement tie rods or go with the Independent 4X upgrades. Since it's broken, great time to do the upgrade if you want to drop the coin.
I'll be out at the yards this week sourcing some parts for my new '94 Troopy, so if you want me to get a tie rod, I'd be happy to.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer. I'm still exploring my options, I don't have a lot of faith in the stock parts at this point, I think my wallet is my restricting factor. ;)
 
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Hey Spork, glad to hear you guys got out. I'll add my voice to the chorus calling for upgrades - get the beefier adjusters, and save the unbroken OEM part in your spares box.
 
Spork

Spork

Tin Foil Hat Equipped
Location
Saratoga Springs, UT
Kevin B. said:
Hey Spork, glad to hear you guys got out. I'll add my voice to the chorus calling for upgrades - get the beefier adjusters, and save the unbroken OEM part in your spares box.
Click to expand...

I'll be adding it to my spares box.

Found something else today
On this page http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=37495 someone indicated that they had 4098 stamped on the end and from that I found http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/archive/index.php?t-42215.html it indicates that ES150L and ES150R are 3/4"-16 If IH is consistent in it's thread taper then that may be the ends I need. It also gets me the 3/4-16 threads which look like a common size. Time to get my micrometer out.
 
Spork

Spork

Tin Foil Hat Equipped
Location
Saratoga Springs, UT
Who needs a micrometer when you got Google? ;)

So http://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=MRCES150R_0350388830 is the ES150R
Large Diameter Taper (Dimension B) : .7"
Length (Dimension F) : 3.5"
Right or Left Hand Threads : RH
Rod End Thread (Dimension A) : .75" - 16
Rod End Thread (Dimension E) : .562" - 18
Small Diameter Taper (Dimension C) : .61"
Stud Thread Size (Dimension E) : .562" - 18
Taper Length (Dimension D) : .74"
Thread Type : Male

and Stock tie rod is http://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=MRCES2953_0258085687
Large Diameter Taper (Dimension B) : .71"
Length (Dimension F) : 2.95"
Right or Left Hand Threads : RH
Rod End Thread (Dimension A) : M14 - 1.5
Rod End Thread (Dimension E) : M14 x 1.5
Small Diameter Taper (Dimension C) : .63"
Stud Thread Size (Dimension E) : M14 x 1.5
Taper Length (Dimension D) : .68"
Thread Type : Female

So comparing original vs new
taper length .68" vs .74"
Large Diameter Taper: .71" vs .7"
small Diameter taper: .63 vs .61

I believe on the aftermarket kit they provide a washer which would probably make up the difference in length. Are the tapers similar enough?
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Unless someone beats me to it, I'll draw it up in cad tonight and see how close they are. They do sound similar at the very least.
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
K, they both appear to be 7 degree tapers...so I think the ES150 will plug right in, with the spacer you mentioned. :cool:
 
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