wheres the best place to get a lock right installed

[rpbusa]

Hi all,
Im new to this board. Anyway, drivetraindirect has lock rights for $149 for my toyota V6 rear diff, (I know elockers and ARB are better but I just graduated so moneys tight and at that price I cant afford not to pick one up) So, my question to you locals, is where would be the best place to have it installed for a reasonable price?? I think I have about a fifty fifty chance of doing it right myself, but Ive read experts can do em in 2 hours, maybe less. So, since there isnt a terrible amount of labor Im thinking a local shop might not hurt me too bad on the install. Any references would be greatly appreciated. And I look forward to hours of lurking on this board.
Thanks, Ryan
PS-Im in Provo, but commute to SLC everyday so im pretty open to most locations.

 

[Cruiser]

Hi all,
Im new to this board. Anyway, drivetraindirect has lock rights for $149 for my toyota V6 rear diff, (I know elockers and ARB are better but I just graduated so moneys tight and at that price I cant afford not to pick one up) So, my question to you locals, is where would be the best place to have it installed for a reasonable price?? I think I have about a fifty fifty chance of doing it right myself, but Ive read experts can do em in 2 hours, maybe less. So, since there isnt a terrible amount of labor Im thinking a local shop might not hurt me too bad on the install. Any references would be greatly appreciated. And I look forward to hours of lurking on this board.
Thanks, Ryan
PS-Im in Provo, but commute to SLC everyday so im pretty open to most locations.

http://www.rocklogic4x4.com/
www.Anarchyoffroad.com
they can help!!!

 

[Caleb]

For Utah Valley shops I would check out Rocky Mountain High 4x4 and Six States, Slat Lake Shops I would check out Ms. Conceptions Motorsports Six States Anarchy and Rocklogic any or all of them will treat you right.

 

[DevinB]

There's also Just For Fun, ran by Curtis McNeil and Charley Copsy. They're out by the dump in Lindon. I talked to Curtis the other day, I was surprised by how nice he was. I honestly thought he'd be a little cocky and what not, but he was really cool and explained everything as I asked him questions. But then again, lockrights are easy to install by yourself. The first time make take a bit of work and patience, but it's worth the knowledge and satisfaction.
Devin

 

[JeepTJ38]

Just for fun is a great shop and i would recommend them but seriously dude. Do it yourself, you have the advantage of pulling your third memeber and doing it on a bench other thean laying under your rig. I installed mine in about 30min and had never been inside a case before. They are way easy.

PS if you do it yourself re-fill your case with the thickest oil you can find 90+ it will lessen the noise of the locker.

 

[rpbusa]

Thanks for the tips. Yeah, I really do want to do it myself. I have changed brake pads, master cyliners, and that basic stuff. Do you guys really think its as easy as those? I just get worried about all that marking business. The install instructions say to mark everything, but Im not sure what to mark and where, and with what? Do you think the install instructions are detailed enough? Have any of you done this not having any experience pulling the third out before? Cause thats were im at. Thanks for the help. ryan

 

[suv]

The first mod I ever did to a drivetrain was install a lockrite. Here are the steps: Take off tires/put on jackstands. Disconnect rear brake lines and driveshaft. Plug the lines to prevent losing all your fluid. Drain diff fluid. Remove 4 bolts on each side that hold the housing to the brake backer. Slide axle shafts out about 6". Be careful not to damage seals. Unbolt 3rd member and it comes right out. The instructions say you can just slap it in, but I had to remove the ring gear because it was in the way of the main pin in the carrier. This is where you need to mark stuff. You'll pull the carrier out - mark the bearing caps and don't lose track of the shims in there. I didn't touch the bearing adjusters...I just left the shims in place and wedged the carrier back in when I was done. Aside from this info, everything you need should be in the instructions. When you slide the shafts back in for reassembly, be careful not to damage the seals or dislodge the oil baffles in the housing. You won't need any special tools, but I'd suggest using a torque wrench for reassembling the bearign caps and ring gear.

Keep in mind most shops charge about $80/hr for labor. 2 hours would be $160...more than the locker cost.

 

[rpbusa]

thanks suv

I think i may try to do it this weekend with the help of a buddy. Ill let you know if we break anything. Thanks again for the tips, i will be referencing them. -rpbusa

 

[rpbusa]

bleed brakes

One quesiton, do I need to bleed the brakes afterwords?

 

[crimsonride]

Nope, you don't need to bleed the brakes, not unless you disconnect them for some reason.

I also say the best place to have it done is right in your own driveway. That's one of the things you can do yourself and learn while you're doing it.

 

[Rusted]

I think i may try to do it this weekend with the help of a buddy. Ill let you know if we break anything. Thanks again for the tips, i will be referencing them. -rpbusa

If you are technical enough to change brakes shoes you will be technical enough to install your own locker. I did my first install in my driveway on a Saturday. It was not too tough, and now that I understand how it works, and could watch it lock and unlock with the cover off I feel good about doing them again. Lock-right could do a better job with their instructions, but if you just look at the parts and take them out carefully, then put it all back together carefully you will be fine.

 

[rpbusa]

question for rusted

I ended up going with the ez locker cause the lock right was sold out at that price. From all ive read there the same thing and I doubt the directions are any better. Anyway, you all have given me the courage. It gets here friday but I probly wont get to it this weekend cause the family is coming to town. Rusted, how is you on road handling? and what kind of rig did you put it in and where (front or rear)? Im going with rear so hopefully that will be easier. I appreciate the help.

 

[kyojin]

I too am going to be putting in a lock rite locker. Mine will be going up front in a Dana 30. I was thinking about the EZ-locker but had heard that you needed to remove the carrier to install. Might have to remove the carrier for the lock rite as well. Good luck with it and let us know how it goes.

 

[crimsonride]

I too am going to be putting in a lock rite locker. Mine will be going up front in a Dana 30. I was thinking about the EZ-locker but had heard that you needed to remove the carrier to install. Might have to remove the carrier for the lock rite as well. Good luck with it and let us know how it goes.

Yes, you do have to remove the carrier to install it. On some of the rear axles you can install it with the carrier in place but in your case it has to be removed. It's somewhat more dificult in the front because you have to pull the shafts and that's a bigger job on the front. It's still not too big of a deal. I believe you have to remove the ring gear to pull the cross pin on that one.