Which master cylinder for D60 swap in CJ

I don't know if the stock master cylinder in my '81 CJ (scrambler) will be adequate for the Dana 60 I just swapped in. Since many of you here have a Dana 60...I'm guessing that this has been successfully dealt with before.

What is the best solution? Are there any plug-n-play solutions? With the GM, what kinds of mods are needed? How about the Vanco (mentioned in another thread)?

Or is everyone running around with inadequate front brakes?

Thanks,
Brett
 

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
Swap to either, a larger bore MC or smaller calipers. What rear axle do you have? Is it disc or drums? You will be very happy with a Vanco setup. But you can also do it on your own for cheaper...but you want plug and play.
 

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
Your problem is volume-- you need more juice than your current setup is offering. So you need a bigger-bore MC.

The Vanco setup is nice, but expensive. I think I probably could spare a Hydroboost setup if you want it, and I know that they will lock up all 6 wheels in a loaded 14' box van. :D

At a minimum I'd use a one-ton MC. You may need some pushrod mods, but they are not hard to do and there are writeups out there.

Let me know if you want one of my Hydroboost setups. :D


I don't know if the stock master cylinder in my '81 CJ (scrambler) will be adequate for the Dana 60 I just swapped in. Since many of you here have a Dana 60...I'm guessing that this has been successfully dealt with before.

What is the best solution? Are there any plug-n-play solutions? With the GM, what kinds of mods are needed? How about the Vanco (mentioned in another thread)?

Or is everyone running around with inadequate front brakes?

Thanks,
Brett
 
Swap to either, a larger bore MC or smaller calipers. What rear axle do you have? Is it disc or drums? You will be very happy with a Vanco setup. But you can also do it on your own for cheaper...but you want plug and play.

Interested in doing it on my own...for cheaper...especially if it is close to plug-n-play. Reading the mbryson E350 write-up. I'm gonna get it all bled and see how well it works...and then visit the Zone and compare E350 m/c's, C/K30 m/c's, and any other m/c's with CJ m/c & booster and see what I'm in for. I can do grinder, and driller, and more grinder, but have to get help to do welder.

Rear is 14bff, drum brakes (very effective too). Will convert them to disc someday. Seems like an easy swap, 'cept for the ebrake part.
 
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DaveB

Long Jeep Fan
Location
Holladay, Utah
I am using an S10 dual diaphragm booster with a Waggy/chevy master cylinder on my scrambler (d44 front and rear) and it works well. I did have to make a custom bracket to mount the booster but it isn't difficult.
 

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
Any of the older one ton stuff should work fine for you. Be carefull with the perportioning (sp) valve though. Those rear brakes need 10 psi of residual pressure. If you are using the stock valve you should be okay. Some MC have the residual pressure valve inside them, you want to avoid that or you will end up with to much residual pressure.
 
A little bird told me a Cardone 10-1534 would work. (application 1980 1 ton chevy van, so same rear axle).

The 1534 has a 1.125" bore vs the 1.000" bore of the stock CJ m/c. 27% more area/volume per stroke.

The fittings are the same size.

Pulled the stock unit off the booster. Looks like the 1534 will bolt right up. Even though the "snout" is a little bigger, there is a squishable rubber thing that will just squish a little more.

Seems as close to a plug-n-play upgrade as it gets.

Bench bleeding took forever. Then it was raining like a mutha and late. Hope to get it on today. (freakin' rain/snow AAAAARGGH!!!)

Looking forward to bleeding the rear brakes now too. NOT.

Looking forward to better brakes, YES!

Thanks!
Brett
 

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
Great, let us know how it works for you. I haven't heard of that part number before, so it would be good to keep in my files if it works out for you.
 
Great, let us know how it works for you. I haven't heard of that part number before, so it would be good to keep in my files if it works out for you.

So far, I'm impressed. Went right in. Bolted up. Lines were the same size. Bled great. Went for a test drive and locked up all four for the first time ever! Best part? $16 + core at the Zone. Crazy! Cardone 10-1534
 
So far, I'm impressed. Went right in. Bolted up. Lines were the same size. Bled great. Went for a test drive and locked up all four for the first time ever! Best part? $16 + core at the Zone. Crazy! Cardone 10-1534

So fun...a couple weeks ago my jeep brakes were feelin' spongy so I figured I'd re-bleed and was surprised to see the front reservoir empty. I filled it and bled it and it was "ok" but not really. So tonight I went out and sure enough, it was empty. Nice. Gonna have to swap it out this weekend.

Oh well, maybe the battery will be charged by then.

Brett
 

BCGPER

Starting Another Thread
Location
Sunny Arizona
What he said... Ya know, that stuff doesn't evaporate, right?? ;)

And what's up with that battery? You're not running that POS out of FS-1 are you? I thought we burned all the remnants, but maybe that one sneaked through.
 
It leaked into the interweb...

There's no leaking at any of the wheels...but there appears to be some seepage at the front of the cylinder, which could drip down between the frame and fender to the ground without much of a trace.

I still have the red-top optima that was in it actually, it had a temp stay in the plow jeep until last weekend (I wanted it back). I've had a yellow-top in there for the last year or so, pretty good. But it's just sat there for a few weeks without any attention. I'd like to hook up a dual battery set up with the red and the yellow top.
 
Ok, rear reservoir mystery solved: big puddle at the left rear tire. Still don't know where the front is going.

It does, however, give me a warm feeling inside to know that in addition to the front (whatever it may be) I get to pull the axle & hub and replace the left rear wheel cylinder.
 
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