Who are the supermoto's out there?

I ran a 45 tooth rear sprocket and I think a 13 tooth front (can't remember for sure on the front...I bet I could find it if I dig around a little).
 
A few other questions:
1) What is a good rear wheel/tire size that will not cause any rubbing or clearance issues?
I hear a 5" wheel is best as it offers the best option in tire size. Will that create any rubbing or clearance issues when choosing tires?

2) It seems 3.5 is the best choice for font wheels but also, what is a good tire size for not creating any rubbing or clearance issues?
 
I bet B2-Bomber could better answer those questions. I had a 5" rear, it would get a tiny bit of chain rub every once in a while. I had a 3.5" front and had to route the front lines on the outside of the fork instead of between the fork on the wheel. I think I also had to trim the fork guard, but again, it was a while ago and don't remember exactly.
 
Caleb said:
I bet B2-Bomber could better answer those questions. I had a 5" rear, it would get a tiny bit of chain rub every once in a while. I had a 3.5" front and had to route the front lines on the outside of the fork instead of between the fork on the wheel. I think I also had to trim the fork guard, but again, it was a while ago and don't remember exactly.
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Awesome Caleb, thanks for the information.
 
let's talk about 5.00" rear rims. You see racers run 5.00" because they run NON-DOT/RACE-ONLY tires, that have a pre-molded carcass profile. These aren't even usually a radial tire. This pre-molded tire allows optimum carcass profile, with maximum contact patch.

But when you mount a DOT, radial tire on a 5.00", the tire pulls to match the rim.....that's a flat profile. but if you mount the exact same tire on a 4.25", it pulls into a more rounded profile, and gives you a better lean-angle.

jentzschman said:
A few other questions:
1) What is a good rear wheel/tire size that will not cause any rubbing or clearance issues? -depending on the bike, there is no avoiding chain rub, it's a fact of life on supermoto, and it's fine. a 150 rear is far, and away the most common.
I hear a 5" wheel is best as it offers the best option in tire size. Will that create any rubbing or clearance issues when choosing tires?-what? a 5.00" fits no smaller than a 160, and most bikes can't even take a 160. Even if they do, they can fit a 160 on a 4.25", not a 160 on a 5.00" which moves the edge of the tire 3/8" out on both sides.

2) It seems 3.5 is the best choice for font wheels but also, what is a good tire size for not creating any rubbing or clearance issues?-3.50" is the only option for Sm front rims, a 120 is the size you would run with that, opt for the largest aspect ratio as possible, this will lessen a "twitchy" feeling in the front-end at speed, due to the loss of caster by going with a 22% (or even higher percent) smaller front tire
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I will tell you the same thing that I tell everyone:
Are you running NON-DOT/Race-Only SUPERMOTO tires? If so, run a 5.00"
Are you running DOT approved, and/or radial tires? If so, run a 4.25"
Even the non-DOT, Race-only, Sport-bike tires are different, and if a person was running these tires, I'd still recommend a 4.25"

4.25" is less expensive, causes the tire to be further away from rubbing, and gives better leaned-over performance.

also keep in mind, that different brands, different models, different sizes, and even different batches of tires bead-up, and fit differently. So for example one model of 150 in lets say Pirelli, will fit, and clear the chain. But another model of Pirelli tire, in the same size may not clear the chain. But like I said, chain rub is a fact of life most of the time, and is acceptable.

but last, and not least, the tire size, and rim size are 100% personal preference, and some people prefer one, over the other for reasons I have not listed. This is also true for gearing, it's personal preference.
 
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Great information bomber, thank you.

Looks like I will be getting a 4.25 rear rim. What size tires seem to be the best all around size? I know nothing about what makes a good moto tire. I see size range for the rear from 150/60R17 all the way up to 190/50R17. From what I have seen, 150/60R17 seems to be a very popular rear size and 120/60R17 seems to be a popular choice for the front.
 
you want as small of a rear tire (lower aspect ratio), and as tall of a front tire (higher aspect ratio) to counter-act the loss of caster. Which causes a loose-feeling in the front-end up around 60mph. A steering stabilizer will cover that up well though. This is because the front drops more than the rear. I suggest a 150/60-17, and a 120/70-17 front. We sell mostly Michelin Pilot Powers. That's what people seem to buy the most. But it's all a matter of what you want to do with it when your Sm wheels are installed.

What is the plan for it whenever you have them on?
 
Awesome! Those recommendations are on par with what I have been able to look up online which means I guess I am on the right track.

My plan is simply for pleasure, no racing of any kind.
 
B2-Bomber said:
No dirt at all? Just street? Aggressive riding? Just commuting? Freeway? In-town?
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Perhaps some highway, mostly in town, commuting, and some dirt (I assume you mean dirt riding with the moto wheel/tires on the bike?)

As far as aggressive riding goes I am sure you have a different idea of what aggressive riding is :D, but I do plan on pushing my riding ability for sure.
 
B2-Bomber said:
you want as small of a rear tire (lower aspect ratio), and as tall of a front tire (higher aspect ratio) to counter-act the loss of caster. Which causes a loose-feeling in the front-end up around 60mph. A steering stabilizer will cover that up well though. This is because the front drops more than the rear. I suggest a 150/60-17, and a 120/70-17 front. We sell mostly Michelin Pilot Powers. That's what people seem to buy the most. But it's all a matter of what you want to do with it when your Sm wheels are installed.

What is the plan for it whenever you have them on?
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Another thought: Do moto tires need to use tubes? When I looked up the Michelin pilot powers, they have tubeless in their description. However, while doing some research on SMJ, there was a post that mentioned the need for tubes.
 
The difference between "Tube-type" tires, and "tubeless" tires is that the tubeless tires have a membrane inside them to prevent air from escaping through the pores of the rubber. You need tubes because it is a spoked rim, and air would escape around all of the spokes.

I was going to recommend the Pilot powers to you, but it looks like you are already leaning that direction.
 
B2-Bomber said:
The difference between "Tube-type" tires, and "tubeless" tires is that the tubeless tires have a membrane inside them to prevent air from escaping through the pores of the rubber. You need tubes because it is a spoked rim, and air would escape around all of the spokes.

I was going to recommend the Pilot powers to you, but it looks like you are already leaning that direction.
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Good to know. Man, so many questions and you guys have been great, thank you.
I had the pilot powers on my CBR and really liked them so I will give them a try again.

Man, I REALLY want to get this set up and not sure I can wait until October. :D
 
People do it.

It never works well.....especially if you practice proper spoke maintenance/adjustment. (as you adjust the nipple it chafes/breaks the seal)
tube-type rims are also not as precisely machined/polished on the bead, so the seal isn't perfect.
The 3rd link is the most effective for sealing, but with that much adhesive it gives balancing issues.

Using a tube is far less problematic.
 
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