Would putting a truss on my front dana 30 axle help

redrock_4x4

Active Member
mbryson said:
I don't have experience with alloy D30 shafts, but have seen quite a few alloy D44 shafts break with 35" tires. $549 is SIGNIFICANTLY less than the shafts were being quoted to me about 3 years ago and possibly worth considering. Are the 760 joints installed in the superiors with c-clips or snap rings? Honestly, that made a HUGE difference in my shaft life on my D30.

They are full circle clips. Shafts prices have come down a lot over the last few years, mainly because you don't need a hub conversion anymore to upgrade the shafts. At that price, or whatever All Jeep's price is which we'd gladly match or beat ;), w/ Alloy USA's 10 yr. no questions asked warranty it's definitely worthwhile to upgrade the 30. That should buy you a lot of time to save up for a 60 :).

mbryson said:
How do you address the housing bending issue?

I've never had one really bend bad but I have noticed my camber change slightly several times over the years. The housing isn't visibly bent though. I've never had a ball joint go either, quite honestly I don't know why I don't experience these problems everyone else does as I certainly do play hard. I grenaded a stock shaft once, and upgraded shafts 2 years ago. My only problems since were inside the diff w/ the 36" Irok's which were just too big for the 30. 35" MT/R's have proven to be my limit.

I have seen ball joints go on the 30's, but only after a u-joint failure. If a u-joint blows the ball joint out and ruins the press fit in the process, that's another story.

My understanding is that the axle is bending at the inner C, generally the tubes themselves are not bending. I don't know if that's always the case or not as again I haven't really seen a badly bent D30, but I would assume that's what's been happening on mine w/ the camber changing.

Assuming that's where the bending issue really is, I would recommend a gusset from the housing to the C like Currie is doing here:

frontend2.jpg


Small picture and weird example I know but you can sort of see what they're doing.

If that didn't take care of it and the actual housing was bending, I'd probably re-tube it if I knew of someone good to do it locally (which I don't anymore). If re-tubing wasn't an option, and I couldn't stop bending them, I'd upgrade.
 
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redrock_4x4

Active Member
waynehartwig said:
...And a D30 r&p is no where near as strong as a D44 r&p.

Depends. low pinion vs low pinion, or high pinion vs high pinion there's no comparison.

But a HP 30 vs LP 44 (Rubi) isn't a huge difference in a front axle.

I personally prefer the HP 30 over the Rubi front ends. More ground clearance both under the diff and the drive shaft, and all things considered they both share the same weak link.

For the cost of a late, non-vac XJ HP 30 front end in good condition ($50-$100 avg) it's worth swapping in there if you haven't already re-geared your 30.

Don't get me wrong though, I'm not saying if I had a Rubi I would swap the front end out for a HP 30. I'm just saying I wouldn't pay for a Rubi 44 front end as an upgrade for a regular TJ when a HP 30 can be had for so cheap.

Both the HP 30 or the Rubi 44 can be run reliably with 35" tires if built properly.
 
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Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
MAAAAAN!!!

coming next: why NOT use sch.40 pipe for a cage??? huh??

:Slipyokes are awesome

: fuel injection is NOT as good as a carb for rockcrawling

: Boggers for my daily driver?


I'm tired and cranky. Sorry everyone... ;) heheh
 

Devel

Just an Outlaw....
Location
North Salt Lake
Tacoma said:
MAAAAAN!!!

coming next: why NOT use sch.40 pipe for a cage??? huh??

:Slipyokes are awesome

: fuel injection is NOT as good as a carb for rockcrawling

: Boggers for my daily driver?


I'm tired and cranky. Sorry everyone... ;) heheh


you lost me.......:confused: :ugh: :D
 
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