XJ Axle upgrade

Silly Willy

Well-Known Member
Location
American Fork Ut
What would be a recommended axle upgrade for an xj? I am wanting to run 37" tires. Would prefer disks all around as well as full width. Defiantly would like them to be pretty easy to find parts for, or just be really hard to break.

Being an Xj it would have to be a driver side and would like it to be HP

Any ideas on what would fit the bill?

Thank's in advance for any help.
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
I'm not convinced 37s belong on an XJ. :-\

What width do you want? Is it going to be street-driven, or trail-only?

For 37s and hard trail use, I think you'd be best off with a pair of 60s. The thing is, 60s and 37s are a lot of weight to be sling'n around under an XJ. You're going to have to massively reinforce everything.

Alternatively, you could do a pair of polished 44s. They would probably survive for a while if you don't treat them too harshly. A 9" rear could be built to handle 37s too.
 

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
Yep, 60's are a waist on a cherokee if you ask me. I would do a hp 44 and 9 out of a 78-79 bronco. 37's and hard wheeling will be pushing it in my opinion
 

Silly Willy

Well-Known Member
Location
American Fork Ut
For 37s and hard trail use, I think you'd be best off with a pair of 60s. The thing is, 60s and 37s are a lot of weight to be sling'n around under an XJ. You're going to have to massively reinforce everything.
I was thinking 60's as well, Thats why I posted a thread about separating the uni-body and making a frame. I think the XJ would look amazing on 37's, with the proper trimming, and the proper fab it could be an awesome rig, though it would be a huge job.

Im personally not a fan of the wranglers, and prefer 4 doors (that doesn't mean I want a 4 door Wrangler or a stretched one). Is it possible to Make a tube chassis that would be street legal or would that simply make it not?

Im pretty sure I'm going 60's what would be the recommended Vehicle(s) to take them out of? I know that all 60's aren't the same, depending on year and make, there is a few threads out there that talk about the ups and downs, but none that I have seen have a "Recommended Best" and are just WAY more info than I can read in one sitting before it turns into Blah blah blah...
 

blueovalyj

New Member
Location
Knoxville, TN
92-95 ford. reverse cut, driver side, ball joint, regular hubs (no unit bearing) and a (regular) lug pattern. they do come with the dual piston calipers so a stock master cylinder would be out of the question, but if you're gona run tons a brake upgrade should be on the list too...FWIW hydroboost is worth every penny.

as for the differences in 60's this will answer any and all questions....i'm sure you've already seen it tho..

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index.html
 

DOSS

Poker of the Hornets Nest
Location
Suncrest
Thats exactly the link im talking about that just turns into blah blah blah.

If you want to run 37's you can do it but like everyone has said I wouldn't do it on an XJ, a wagoneer would be a better platform to start on. that will give you your 4 doors, easy to put your 60's on and has a frame :)

if you do decide to go that way I wouldn't remove the Uni-body "frame" from the XJ I would just build another frame to go along side it. Then run your 60's, but if you are putting in 60's you may as well go 4 link all the way around to go with your new frame but you may run into a lot more blah blah blah :greg: that you really need to know to make all of this work well so that you don't have yourself a broke down death trap.. but this is just my opinion I personally think it would be putting a spit shine on a turd.. an XJ is great for some things but I don't think it will work out well for you in the end.
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
I will probably go the 44 route for the front...again. but i dunno. i had good(ish) luck with my 44 and i think it wouldn't have failed after 3 years of abuse had it been an hp with higher gears (5.38's have a tiny pinion). if you do go for a 60, get a kingpin because hi-steer is easier/cheaper and they are stronger. if you are going for balljoints stick with a hp44 IMO


as for the rear, i will never have a rear 60. i don't think they are worthwhile since you have to upgrade to 35 spline shafts and all that jazz. if i upgrade my rear axle i will be putting in a 14ff, which makes a lot of people angry lol. when it comes right down to it, 10.5" ring gear, pinion support, 1.5" shafts, awesome 2 piece carrier that makes them easy to lincoln lock or detroit. the only downfall is they are huge but about an inch of the bottom (including a bolt hole) can be shaved off without cutting into the housing itself. and putting on discs shaves off some serious weight too. let the flaming begin :D
 

WayneXJ

grocery getter driver
Location
So. Jordan
I love my XJ with 37's and full width D44/D60.
HellsRevenge147.jpg

extra bracing behind the steering box and along the frame rails help keep it together.
DSCF3564.jpg

DSCF3568.jpg
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
I was thinking 60's as well, Thats why I posted a thread about separating the uni-body and making a frame. I think the XJ would look amazing on 37's, with the proper trimming, and the proper fab it could be an awesome rig, though it would be a huge job.
......



There are a few around that are built already. PM Brent and see if he's still got his. I think he'd let it go for $6500 or so? Dunno, though?
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
If you're shopping around for front 60s, I would get a mid-80s F-350 version. You get kingpins (making high-steer much more do-able), 35 spline, high pinion, 8-on-6.5 bolt pattern, etc. With that truck you'll get a Sterling 10.25 rear axle, which is rarely used in rock cralwers for reasons I'm not entirely clear on. :confused:
Rear full-float 60s are cheap (generally $100 or so) and plentiful. You'll have to bore out the spindles to fit 35 spline shafts. The easiest way to do this is to cut them off, and have a machine shop chuck them up in a lathe, then weld them back on with an alignment jig. While you're doing this you can easily narrow the axle, if you want to. Of course, you'd want to narrow the front to match if you do.
 

Silly Willy

Well-Known Member
Location
American Fork Ut
If you want to run 37's you can do it but like everyone has said I wouldn't do it on an XJ, a wagoneer would be a better platform to start on. that will give you your 4 doors, easy to put your 60's on and has a frame :)
This is one rout I have considered going.

I love my XJ with 37's and full width D44/D60.
HellsRevenge147.jpg

extra bracing behind the steering box and along the frame rails help keep it together.
DSCF3564.jpg

DSCF3568.jpg
I knew I wasn't the only one with the idea to do this with xj's
How do you like the 60 in rear?


At this point I am gathering info and will be wanting to do more of a budget build. he is starting with an asking price of 800 there. I know quality is expensive, but I will defanetly be on a budget.
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
there are tons of one-ton xj's, check out the pirate4x4.com cherokee section and even naxja.org (more so pirate, but yeah)

putting tons on xj's is not a new idea... some have better luck with it than others but yeah it can be/has been done
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
At this point I am gathering info and will be wanting to do more of a budget build. he is starting with an asking price of 800 there. I know quality is expensive, but I will defanetly be on a budget.

I recently sold the same axle for $1200. $800 is a good deal for a high pinion kingpin front 60. You'll still need to gear and lock it. If $800 is beyond your budget, it's going to be really tough to put 60s under your XJ.

I think you'd be better off plating the unibody like Wayne (and many others) did, than building a sub frame. A sub frame is likely to make your XJ unnecessarily tall. I also think you'll want a nice cage to further stiffen up the chassis.

So, do you have any idea what your total budget might be? Many of us have done similar builds and can tell you many of the things you're not taking into consideration.
 

DOSS

Poker of the Hornets Nest
Location
Suncrest
I recently sold the same axle for $1200. $800 is a good deal for a high pinion kingpin front 60. You'll still need to gear and lock it. If $800 is beyond your budget, it's going to be really tough to put 60s under your XJ.

I think you'd be better off plating the unibody like Wayne (and many others) did, than building a sub frame. A sub frame is likely to make your XJ unnecessarily tall. I also think you'll want a nice cage to further stiffen up the chassis.

So, do you have any idea what your total budget might be? Many of us have done similar builds and can tell you many of the things you're not taking into consideration.

I agree on the plating the frame.. I was just going off what he previously wanted.. I have seen a couple frames that have been built along the sides as well.. redneck as all get out but hey everyone has their own views.
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
yeah for sure just plate it, cage it, slider it and tie them all together :D

check these out

i have the main sections from them and i am very happy with the product. i plated my old xj with 1/4" that i cut and fitted myself and it was ridiculous heavy IMO. i think 10g is a good thickness for the application. plus they are so cheap, most people can't build them cheaper themselves
 
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