XJ Custom Long Arm Fab

[SingleTrackMind]

Hey guys. I'm new to this forum and am hoping I can get some pointers and maybe links to sites that will help me build a custom long arm lift kit for my '98 XJ. I have fabrication/machining skills and access to a machine shop for my fabrication. My XJ is bone stock right now, but I want to build a long arm kit for it, around the 6" height. With ample flex/clearance for 33x12.50's. I really like the TNT customs lift with the high clearance, bent style LCA's connected to the UCA's, coming off the integrated skid plate underneath the tranny and T-case. I'll probably model it somewhat after that style. I am going to focus on just the front end right now and just buy some 6" leafs for the rear, to be updated later. I hope to avoid any forseeable problems with tire rub, control arm intereference, death wobble, and so on. I am open to suggestions, comments, your tried-and-trued knowlege, etc, etc...

-Nate


1998 XJ, Daily driver and needs to remain so.
HP D30 Front
8.25 Rear
NP 231 t-case
Auto Tranny

 

[Greg]

Rockmonkey just built a set of radius arms for his XJ, you might be able to get some info from seeing how he did his setup. Here's a link to his XJ build thread-
http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=47224&page=11


The radius arms pics are towards the bottom of that page, then there are pics showing them bolted on, at the next page.

I'm jealous of the machine shop access...

 

[RockMonkey]

What he said. :greg:

 

[SingleTrackMind]

Thanks for the link guys. That's a super clean fabrication job. Nice work. I like it a lot. RockMonkey, do you do mock-up fabs before you go to town on the final build? Seems to me that's what I will have to do to be sure everything flexes and clears properly.

 

[RockMonkey]

Thanks for the link guys. That's a super clean fabrication job. Nice work. I like it a lot. RockMonkey, do you do mock-up fabs before you go to town on the final build? Seems to me that's what I will have to do to be sure everything flexes and clears properly.

Thanks. I think it through thoroughly before I start building, and sometimes make drawings to help, but then I just build it. Mock-ups and models just take extra time. I will use mock-up control arms so I don't use expensive tube until I know exactly what the lengths need to be.

 

[DaveB]

I built a custom long arm setup for my son's MJ, it is a four link and there are a couple of pictures of it in this thread:
http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=63572&highlight=monster

It has worked out very well, wheels great and rides very nicely down the road.

 

[SingleTrackMind]

Dave, That's a nice looking setup. I wish I had a pair of D44's to put under mine, but I don't have the resources for that right now. So I see how you mounted the lower control arms, but how/where did you tie the upper control arms in?

 

[DaveB]

Dave, That's a nice looking setup. I wish I had a pair of D44's to put under mine, but I don't have the resources for that right now. So I see how you mounted the lower control arms, but how/where did you tie the upper control arms in?

It is hard to see from the pictures but the upper mounts come off the top of the crossmember and aim up near the floor about 5 inches in front of the crossmember. I patterned it after the BDS XJ four link long arm kit. If you look at their web site you can see how they do the upper control arms. I should post a few more pictures.
By the way I have an extra XJ dana 44 in the garage.

 

[D94R]

Im wanting to do custom long arms on my '00 XJ as well. I read a post on Pirate4x4 about using the links from Suicidedoors.com, though the guy was talking about short arms.


The links from suicidedoors.com are 1.5", .25" wall DOM. Would these be big enough for long arms? Seems all the aftermarket stuff is 2".

Suicidedoors links

 

[I Lean]

I'd go larger than 1.5" personally. The 1/4" wall thickness is great, but with the smaller diameter they'll still bend much easier than a larger one.

 

[RockMonkey]

Yeah, that's a little small for lowers.

 

[D94R]

Thanks guys, I'm gonna call him and see if he can do them in 2" for lowers then.

 

[Floydargue]

Rear lift

A minor note on the rear - you probably do not want to go 6" leafs. 4 or 4.5" with 2 " shackles would be better(I think). Once the springs have the bigger arc, the more horizontal leeway is needed at the shackle to accomodate the length change during flex. Plus it will droop a little farther.
I went with a Clayton 6.5" and it is certainly ideal for 33s with a little extra space. It is just enough for 35s as well. I did not read really carefully at all the posts, but have you considered a 3-link? If you are building from stock and want hella-smooth flex, it would be a good move, just more math. Radius arms do well, but 3 links allow for fewer rubber joints and less binding in flexy moments. As any radius owner like myself can tell you, bushings (especially the upper) go fast when you wheel a lot. If I was building from the ground up, I would definitely look a lot harder into that kind of set up than I did the first time.

Hey guys. I'm new to this forum and am hoping I can get some pointers and maybe links to sites that will help me build a custom long arm lift kit for my '98 XJ. I have fabrication/machining skills and access to a machine shop for my fabrication. My XJ is bone stock right now, but I want to build a long arm kit for it, around the 6" height. With ample flex/clearance for 33x12.50's. I really like the TNT customs lift with the high clearance, bent style LCA's connected to the UCA's, coming off the integrated skid plate underneath the tranny and T-case. I'll probably model it somewhat after that style. I am going to focus on just the front end right now and just buy some 6" leafs for the rear, to be updated later. I hope to avoid any forseeable problems with tire rub, control arm intereference, death wobble, and so on. I am open to suggestions, comments, your tried-and-trued knowlege, etc, etc...

-Nate


1998 XJ, Daily driver and needs to remain so.
HP D30 Front
8.25 Rear
NP 231 t-case
Auto Tranny

 

[Devel]

I'd go larger than 1.5" personally. The 1/4" wall thickness is great, but with the smaller diameter they'll still bend much easier than a larger one.

i run 1.5" .25 wall DOM for my lowers on my TJ and i have wheeled the piss out of it for the last year and havent bent mine

 

[D94R]

Yah I'm still debating the size. But, I can go bigger thread size with the joints if I go 2" tubing.

 

[SingleTrackMind]

Okay I'm listening. So can you, or anyone who wants to chime in, further educate me on the advantages and/or disadvantages to doing a 3-link front setup with a panhard bar, or going with a 4 link design? And would 4.5" leafs and 2" shackles be better than a 6.5" lift leaf set in the rear, as suggested below?

A minor note on the rear - you probably do not want to go 6" leafs. 4 or 4.5" with 2 " shackles would be better(I think). Once the springs have the bigger arc, the more horizontal leeway is needed at the shackle to accomodate the length change during flex. Plus it will droop a little farther.
I went with a Clayton 6.5" and it is certainly ideal for 33s with a little extra space. It is just enough for 35s as well. I did not read really carefully at all the posts, but have you considered a 3-link? If you are building from stock and want hella-smooth flex, it would be a good move, just more math. Radius arms do well, but 3 links allow for fewer rubber joints and less binding in flexy moments. As any radius owner like myself can tell you, bushings (especially the upper) go fast when you wheel a lot. If I was building from the ground up, I would definitely look a lot harder into that kind of set up than I did the first time.