Yep, lools like I'll have to do the same.
XJ exhaust manifold crack: what brand to buy?
- Thread starter Gravy
- Start date
Yep, lools like I'll have to do the same.
dungbeetle
Registered User
- Location
- Provo
I had the same kind of crack in my manifold...... down in the crotch where my welder couldn't reach. I just filled the whole crotch up with weld and put it back on. It hasn't failed so far, but I haven't run it a whole lot.
chadschoon
Well-Known Member
- Location
- lehi
just installed a new one from ebay on mine yesterday. what a pain in the a$$ when you have coilover hoops, engine bar, resiviors, power stearing pump and so on in the way 
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
just installed a new one from ebay on mine yesterday. what a pain in the a$$ when you have coilover hoops, engine bar, resiviors, power stearing pump and so on in the way
any power improvement? (vs. stock leaking crap?
)I got frustrated thursday night because I couldn't get two of the bottom bolts to line up....
so I left it apart and took off on vacation for 3 days...
just got back and I don't even want to touch it......... I guess the wife will have to drive me to work tomorrow
Kiel
Formerly WJ ZUK
any power improvement? (vs. stock leaking crap?
I got frustrated thursday night because I couldn't get two of the bottom bolts to line up....
so I left it apart and took off on vacation for 3 days...
just got back and I don't even want to touch it......... I guess the wife will have to drive me to work tomorrow
I'd make her do it lol. Com'on hun you have smaller hands, its your duty
grandmaster
Let the build Re-begin
- Location
- St. George, Utah
I got the Doug Thorley headers for mine last christmas, they are a major PITA to install, but other then that i like it. A bit more power and better gas mileage. And i still have my stock manifold, and it isnt cracked, just figured i mind as well replace it while I was takin the intake off to clean it really good anyway.
chadschoon
Well-Known Member
- Location
- lehi
the manifold went on great. It's just what you have to go through to install it. I haven't drove mine so I couldn't tell you about the power, but anything is better then my leaky exhaust
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
I agree, major PITA.... Since I had mine off, I pulled the head. 1) remove the doubt about it being cracked (runs warm always) and 2) do some porting/manifold matching.
I went with a Pacesetter manifold - $200 to my door. Still working on it, but I'll let you know what I think after I get it put back together...
I went with a Pacesetter manifold - $200 to my door. Still working on it, but I'll let you know what I think after I get it put back together...
Alright, this is finally pissing me off! I got the new manifold in and week later the manifold gasket blew. Its the the last cylinder toward the rear. The previous gasket had blown out in exactly the same spot. I followed the instructions and tightened the bolts in the right order and set them to 25 lbs. as per the instructions that came with the header.
I found a document online that has updated torque settings according to Chrysler. 2 of the bolts, I don't remember which numbers, have a much lower torque.
Anyway, I don't know why I keep blowing the gasket. I'm going to try the copper seal-a-gasket this time. Has anyone had this problem, or is it just me? I'm not sure if this is caused by over tightening or under tightening or neither. Hopefully the copper stuff will stop this from happening. Any comments?
I found a document online that has updated torque settings according to Chrysler. 2 of the bolts, I don't remember which numbers, have a much lower torque.
Anyway, I don't know why I keep blowing the gasket. I'm going to try the copper seal-a-gasket this time. Has anyone had this problem, or is it just me? I'm not sure if this is caused by over tightening or under tightening or neither. Hopefully the copper stuff will stop this from happening. Any comments?
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
So after going through a cracked intake manifold and a warped replacement intake manifold and a exhaust that didn't seal quite right... I'm finally done!
Ton's quieter and more low end power, (but I attribute most of that to a leaky exhaust.)
Kevin, the torque specs in my FSM say to hit all of them with 24ft/lb and the two outer studs (on cylinders 1 & 6) with 23ft/lb, and tighten them in a spiraling clockwise pattern starting with the inner most aft bolt.
but my stock intake manifold is going to be different than yours.
I think most companies suggest checking the torque specs after like 500 miles, which doesn't seem like a bad idea
Also, you might try a gasket for a later model, my most recent gasket was 100 times better than the one I changed on my old 92'.
Ton's quieter and more low end power, (but I attribute most of that to a leaky exhaust.)
Kevin, the torque specs in my FSM say to hit all of them with 24ft/lb and the two outer studs (on cylinders 1 & 6) with 23ft/lb, and tighten them in a spiraling clockwise pattern starting with the inner most aft bolt.
but my stock intake manifold is going to be different than yours.
I think most companies suggest checking the torque specs after like 500 miles, which doesn't seem like a bad idea
Also, you might try a gasket for a later model, my most recent gasket was 100 times better than the one I changed on my old 92'.
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
You can try the copper rtv stuff if you want, but it's not necessary. If you do, put it on then let it sit for about an hour before you tighten up the bolts.
1- make sure both surfaces are clean and oil free. Use a sanding block so you keep it flat as well. Don't use a flapper disc or etc...
2- torque all the bolts in stages, progressively getting tighter to the final torque setting.
3- torque them in a circle, starting with the middle bolt and working your way outward.
4- make sure after you warm the engine up, let it cool completely and recheck all of the bolts in the same inside out sequence. Keep doing this until the bolts never need tightening again.