YJ build, the Wrongler

jedi

aboogadaboogadaboogada
I bought a new to me YJ, 94, 2.5L, 4”spring under lift, 4.88 gears, lock rights front and rear, D35 and 3pc D30. Where I want it to be is, bigger axles, maybe JK. 37’s, 101” wheelbase. I can bolt on parts but my fabrication skills... that’s kind of the point of this build. Without getting over my head I want to keep it simple though. I am thinking spring under front with some Rancho 44044 to extend the front 2”. Then a M.O.R.E. Steering box relocation to help with the steering angles. For the rear I am thinking a Genright gas tank, I don’t want a fuel cell inside and there is not a whole lot of bolt on options. I am thinking staying spring under with the 4” leafs I got relocated back 4 maybe 5”s. That would put me at 100 or 101” wb. Now the parts I have that I am unsure I should use or not. 35” Patagonia’s brand new, i could use these to keep wheeling while I collect more parts, or trade or sell to get 37’s. A set of ruff stuff SOA perches, do I go spring over in one end or the other? I have an XJ I am going to sell to fund this project. The axles under it are a rear D44 with chromoly shafts, 4.88, Detroit. And a front D30, 4.88. And a Detroit but the 2pc. Should I keep these axles to put under the YJ? Obviously the 30 is too small but it’s the 44 I’m thinking about.
I drive pretty light footed and it’s only got the 4 banger. I don’t need 37’s but want them. 35’s realistically will get the job done. I am pretty content driving trails like poison spider and hells revenge. Help me make some decisions on my next build.
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
I'd be tempted to keep the Dana 44 rear, but Wagoneer axles are a great swap for a YJ.

When I get home, I'll take some pictures of how I moved the steering box on my CJ years ago. It was pretty simple, and it's help up very well.

I like SUA versus SOA in the rear. It keeps the axle wrap down significantly.
 

Spork

Tin Foil Hat Equipped
To be honest I'd wheel it as is and then evaluate. A stock YJ shouldn't have too much trouble running Hells revenge or poison spider. I see a lot of build it big, and that's great if your goal is building, if you're goal is getting out and you start with building it big, I see guys get things torn apart, loose interest and then a year later end up selling (guilty). I wouldn't do a fuel cell, I wheel with a guy with a YJ on 33's and inside space is too tight to give up the room. He normally hits on the bumperettes (yes he still has them) or on the shackle. the gas tank is usually high enough it's never hit. My buddy is locked front and rear so that does make a lot of the stuff look easy and he's running stock axles still so it's possible for them to survive.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
There was a thread on PBB a few years ago from H8Monday about how he pulled his fuel cell up through the floor. I modeled mine after his to get my 100" wheelbase. I don't have any pics of the tank mod but you're more than welcome to come out and take a look at it. I would imagine those photos and actual tech are long gone from that site?

If you're as light footed as you say and you take a bit of weight out of the YJ, I think the XJ axles could last a bit? Check into XJ springs (you'll need to weld a hanger from the frame) for the wheelbase stretch? The Genright tank is pretty sweet but you'll be throwing some $ at it.

To be honest I'd wheel it as is and then evaluate. A stock YJ shouldn't have too much trouble running Hells revenge or poison spider. I see a lot of build it big, and that's great if your goal is building, if you're goal is getting out and you start with building it big, I see guys get things torn apart, loose interest and then a year later end up selling (guilty). I wouldn't do a fuel cell, I wheel with a guy with a YJ on 33's and inside space is too tight to give up the room. He normally hits on the bumperettes (yes he still has them) or on the shackle. the gas tank is usually high enough it's never hit. My buddy is locked front and rear so that does make a lot of the stuff look easy and he's running stock axles still so it's possible for them to survive.

Absolutely nothing wrong with this approach either. I don't see anything wrong with what you have other than the D35.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Ditch the D35.
XJ rear springs can net you some length too since the center pin is offset.
Mbryson is correct about scooting the tank back a couple inches and lifting up through the floor. But any more than a few inches and you'll end up wanting a fuel cell (my TJ is 106" and I had to do it.)

4.88s are just enough for my other 6 cyl TJ on 35s.
I can't imagine 4.88s and 37s with a 4 cyl.
The d30 won't hold up to much more without lots of money thrown at it.
 

jedi

aboogadaboogadaboogada
The Dana 35 is going away for sure. I had a friend that ran 35’s on D35 and it’s super fun getting him off the trail when it broke. Jack it up, roll 5 to 10 feet, jack it up again, push the tire back in. A big part of the debate is to put the 35’s on it and the D44, or just hold out and get stronger axles, and more gearing. Ideally 5.38 and lower transfer case gearing too. The current 4.88’s, 4 banger and 33’s works but not where I want to be. The XJ leafs has been on my mind but run them spring under still to prevent axle wrap. Moving the gas tank is something I will have to look into. Would be a lot cheaper. I did think about waggy axles as well, or JK. I like the idea of the high steer and bigger breaks, even finding some that someone has built but now is switching to tons. They seem to sell for high dollar though. I’m kind of leaning towards the 35’s so I can still get out to play, then eventually getting a 44 front and regear both axles lower.
 

Pile of parts

Well-Known Member
Location
South Jordan
The Dana 35 is going away for sure. I had a friend that ran 35’s on D35 and it’s super fun getting him off the trail when it broke. Jack it up, roll 5 to 10 feet, jack it up again, push the tire back in. A big part of the debate is to put the 35’s on it and the D44, or just hold out and get stronger axles, and more gearing. Ideally 5.38 and lower transfer case gearing too. The current 4.88’s, 4 banger and 33’s works but not where I want to be. The XJ leafs has been on my mind but run them spring under still to prevent axle wrap. Moving the gas tank is something I will have to look into. Would be a lot cheaper. I did think about waggy axles as well, or JK. I like the idea of the high steer and bigger breaks, even finding some that someone has built but now is switching to tons. They seem to sell for high dollar though. I’m kind of leaning towards the 35’s so I can still get out to play, then eventually getting a 44 front and regear both axles lower.
Oh boy... I've rolled this snowball more than once. This will be a fun project and I'm not really sure what advice to give because you could have a lot of fun with the XJ axles and 35s and you could spend a lot of money and have fun with an extreme build. Good luck and I'll be interested in watching whichever direction you decided to go.
 

JeeperG

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverdale
FWIW I have had the same YJ for 21 years now, same Dana 30 (stock vacuum collar is a pain), same Dana 35, I have not changed a thing except a slip yoke eliminator and custom drive shafts. What I have wrecked..., Spun a bearing in the ole AMC, "my own damn fault", (basically low oil) and recently the AX5 lost 3rd. I have run spring over with stock springs and still have the perches on my axles to do so, I'd say keep it spring under.

Ford 8.8 explorer axles are plentyful and cheap, same wheel bolt pattern, slightly shorter (width) than the Dana 35, disc brake.

Also what I am saying... Know your limits.
 

jedi

aboogadaboogadaboogada
Time for an update, I have bought lots of parts, spent a whole lot of time cleaning the garage so the Jeep can get in. EJS is right around the corner, time to get this thing torn apart to rebuild. The plan is to build for the 35’s that are on it, so I can go play, then eventually switch to tons and 37’s. I am going with 44044 springs for the front stretch, spring under. The rear I am going to relocate the springs 4 to 5” back, spring under. So the parts I have bought so far;
GenRight gas tank
GenRight aluminum corner guards for a 4” stretch.
TNT customs highline fenders.
Rancho 44044 springs for the front.
M.O.R.E. Steering box relocation bracket.
Iron Rock Offroad Hack n tap SYE.
GenRight front cage sanctions
motobilt tail lights, boomerang shackles, shock mounts, etc.

Now some pics of the progress;
With new 35’s, new fenders, in the garage.
 

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jedi

aboogadaboogadaboogada
I got the front fenders on and they look awesome! I want to replace the coolant overflow bottle, does an aftermarket one have to hold the same volume or can I use a smaller one?
 

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I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
I got the front fenders on and they look awesome! I want to replace the coolant overflow bottle, does an aftermarket one have to hold the same volume or can I use a smaller one?
You can use a smaller one.
 

kmboren

Recovering XJ owner anonymous
Location
Southern Utah
Watching this build. I like it so far. I recently picked up a YJ and am slowly picking parts up. I have a ford 8.8 and just ordered a Yukon c clip elimination kit. Replacing front 30 with an XJ 30. I am thinking about doing the 44044 on the rear which gives 2 inches of stretch and then relocating the spring perches 2 inches. Also looking hard at the genright tank that you purchased. Keep it up.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Watching this build. I like it so far. I recently picked up a YJ and am slowly picking parts up. I have a ford 8.8 and just ordered a Yukon c clip elimination kit. Replacing front 30 with an XJ 30. I am thinking about doing the 44044 on the rear which gives 2 inches of stretch and then relocating the spring perches 2 inches. Also looking hard at the genright tank that you purchased. Keep it up.

XJ leafs
 
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