YJ FULL WIDTH AXLE SWAP

[Quindog]

Looking into swapping out my axles on my YJ. I already have SOA and would like to keep the same leaf springs. Would like to do 14 bolt or dana 60 rear, and dana 60 front. Any advice on what axles to buy, and what are all the things I have to do?

 

[mbryson]

Looking into swapping out my axles on my YJ. I already have SOA and would like to keep the same leaf springs. Would like to do 14 bolt or dana 60 rear, and dana 60 front. Any advice on what axles to buy, and what are all the things I have to do?

I slightly outboarded my springs on the front to use the GM D60 mounts. I didn't want to mess with trimming the D60 housing on the pass. side to work with the stock spring setup. '77-79 Ford (correct drop for stock transfer case) D60 fronts are literally a bolt in.

Rear axle is pretty easy as you just cut perches off the axle and use stock mounts on chassis for springs. Set your pinion angle and burn the perches on the axle. I used a 14 bolt but a D60 or Sterling axle would be the same idea. I like the 14 bolt for cheapness/parts availability vs. a rear D60 (35 spline makes you modify some stuff -- fine, but I can get parts for a 14 bolt ANYWHERE). Do a little research on the D60-14 bolt-Sterling debate. You'll figure out what YOU want to do. (I'd do a late model 14 bolt with disk brakes and clearance the protruding lower lip of the 14 bolt---YMMV)

You WILL have wheel hop. Plan to address that with at least a traction bar.

 

[Quindog]

Thanks for the reply, so if I get a 77-79 ford dana 60 front I won't have to outboard the springs? With the steering does it hook up pretty easily to the pitman arm on my jeep?

 

[idahoyj]

Thanks for the reply, so if I get a 77-79 ford dana 60 front I won't have to outboard the springs? With the steering does it hook up pretty easily to the pitman arm on my jeep?

If I remember right, the 78-79 Ford fronts are within 1/2" of the factory YJ spring width. You will have to build a longer drag link. You will probably need longer brake lines too. Drive shaft will likely need a different yoke.

In the rear, if you use a newer 14 bolt (AAM 10.5) there isn't as much room to trim the lip on the bottom without a full "Shave". There is a factory drain plug and a recessed area in the housing.

I went the outboard route with mine, because later model Ford Kingpin D60s are easier to come by and can be found for half the price of a 78-79 Ford front. Mine is out of a 1991 F-350. I still wish I had a 78-79 front because with a later model D60, the diff ends up partially under the frame rail. Since I am spring under (really effen low with 42s) I have severely limited up travel for this phase of the build. With your rig being spring over, you won't have much of a problem with it.
My build thread- http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?100122-Build-Jeep-YJ-Unlimited-family-wheeler

 

[RockChucker]

Seems like a saw a 78-79 housing only on ksl for like $300 in the rock crawler parts. They are hard to come by and that's a pretty good price for a housing.

 

[thenag]

Looking into swapping out my axles on my YJ. I already have SOA and would like to keep the same leaf springs. Would like to do 14 bolt or dana 60 rear, and dana 60 front. Any advice on what axles to buy, and what are all the things I have to do?

I think most will advise to stay away from the STOCK rear dana 60's. They can be built up to hold up but for the most part STOCK REAR dana 60's are not very strong, for sure not nearly as strong as other cheap and easy to find rear ends.

I know you said you want to go full width, but if you are thinking of making them a little narrower, with the old single rear wheel gm 14 bolt you can slap on a pair of hubs from a dully and take 2 inches off each side. (of course you pretty much have to convert to disk breaks at that point since your brake baking plates won't line up) My front is a ball joint d60 from a 96 ford f350, the driver side was lengthened to take a GM short side shaft (so my drove side is longer than a stock 84-96 ford but shorter than a 78-79 ford) OEM gm inner shaft on the driver side a custom shaft on the passenger side. I have to limit up travel on my driver side because the diff gets into the oil pan and the yoke gets into the exhaust. You can check my build thread for more details, I think it is on page 1 or 2. Also my wheels have very little backspacing so I am wider than a full width on H2 wheels. (so if you spend the money on the H2 wheels you won't have to narrow your axles to get close to what I have)

Nathan
build thread
http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?83436-Nathan-and-Tanja-s-99-XJ-Build-up

 

[Quindog]

Thanks for all the help, I'll be looking for some axles soon. Just need to find them for the right price lol. I'm sure I'll have some more questions once I get started!

 

[Quindog]

I found a Dana 44 out of a 78 ford, has any body on here had any experience with these. I would like to run 37 inch tires do you think the D44 would hold up to them? I understand it wont be nearly as good as a Dana 60 but I can get it for around $125 so it might be worth it to buy it and a 14 bolt then get some 5.38 gears for both of them. Opinions?

 

[mbryson]

I found a Dana 44 out of a 78 ford, has any body on here had any experience with these. I would like to run 37 inch tires do you think the D44 would hold up to them? I understand it wont be nearly as good as a Dana 60 but I can get it for around $125 so it might be worth it to buy it and a 14 bolt then get some 5.38 gears for both of them. Opinions?

Depending on how you use your skinny pedal you can make a case for a D44. An upgraded D44 can be "almost" as strong as a stock D60 (for about the same price as a junkyard D60) and could give you years of good service depending on your use. However, you could smoke it the first time out and be out the $ for the wheeling trip and replacement parts. For my $, I go with the D60. You've entered an age old debate and everyone will have an opinion on the D44-D60. You'll have to decide what will work for you. To me 35-37" tires are the breaking point of the D44. Other people will run 40" tires on them.... Not me.

Your axle in question is likely a "reverse" D44 that will be stronger in the ring/pinion than a normal D44. My problem with a D44 is the axle joint size. I just like the burly 60 axle joints SO much more. If I were you, I'd read a LOT and decide what you want to do. There are countless threads re: your question on EVERY forum. (I LOVE to read all the "differences" between a JK D30 and D44....those are a hoot but that's not exactly on topic)

 

[Bart]

As long as you're going to all the work, spend the extra up front for the 60. It will come back to haunt you if you don't.

 

[thenag]

I found a Dana 44 out of a 78 ford, has any body on here had any experience with these. I would like to run 37 inch tires do you think the D44 would hold up to them? I understand it wont be nearly as good as a Dana 60 but I can get it for around $125 so it might be worth it to buy it and a 14 bolt then get some 5.38 gears for both of them. Opinions?

Since you are keeping the existing leafs, you won't have to do too much work to go from a d44 to a d60. (other than if you spend money on gears and lockers for the d44). Many people did this with full size broncos they would put a straight d44 in to get rid of the ttb, and they would plan to do a d60 later. For the most part steering drag link will swap from a d44 to a d60, you may need a different yoke or u-joint to hook up to the front shaft. and for the yj you will have to put spring perches on both axles.

If you are trying to keep it cheap, get it together quickly, or if you can't find a d60 the d44 is not a horrible idea. (Of course this assumes that it is 8 lug, if it is not 8 lug it can be converted us GM 8 lug d44 parts which are all over the place, but more time more money for a d44)

RockMonkey built his xj with 37's and a front d44, he eventually upgraded one of the knuckles to a Reid Racing, that knuckle is probably the single most expensive thing on the rig.

Nathan