During Saturday's work I was able to pretty much wrap up the chassis. If all I wanted to do was throw the engine in, drop the body and get it running I think I could have accomplished that easily by now. Unfortunately it’s all of the little details that take so much more time. The downside to rushing an engine swap (or anything for that matter) is that the little details such as dealing with clearances, chafing potentials and heat issues that will be the difference between a vehicle that will run trouble free for many miles and years or one that will very problematic.
I wanted to be able to use the small stabilization bracket on top if the alternator so it took a little tweaking and a small standoff then some bead blasting and paint and it looks OEM.
I also rewrapped the alternator wire with split loom and used an Adel clamp for strain relief.
I routed the alternator cable under the throttle body but high enough to keep it up off of the steam tube that runs across from head to head.
Next I addressed the transmission cooler lines. I wanted to secure them to the engine and keep from fatigue cracking.
Bent up a small bracket out of 1” strap. Bead blasted and painted.
Installed using the OEM tab on the lines.
I then replaced the oil passage block off plate with a boss equipped to thread my analog oil pressure sensor into for my oil pressure gauge on my A-pillar.
While I was at it I wrapped the sending unit wire with abrasion resistant wrap.
EVAP line with abrasion resistant wrap ready to install.
Installed the EVAP line and fuel line (also wrapped for abrasion protection) and ran them down the back of the engine and transmission. I also wrapped the area around where the exhaust will be routed with heat reflective material.
I installed the OEM GM wire harness onto the engine and down the back to the transmission.
Adel clamp to add strain relief to the main wire harness.
I didn’t tie the wiring and fuel too tight as on a 4WD vehicle you want them to be able to float a little and not pull so tight as they will tug at connections or lines/wiring.
Ground distribution is critical to a modern engine so make sure to ground to a threaded boss and use star washers against the block or head as they dig in and provide the proper ground.
After the engine harness was installed I moved rearward and replaced the fuel pump as well as removed the fill tube in order to replace it with the new revised fill tube with a flap valve to prevent spit back.
You can tell if yours is equipped with the new check valve by the large mid-section.
Lastly I relocated the EVAP canister. Removed it from the factory location and moved it above the rear axle and incorporated the GM closed loop feedback system EVAP vent valve and fuel tank pressure sensor into it.
Here is my EVAP canister after relocation. I could have left it where it was but by relocating it the void left really clears up some valuable space where I want to place my common chamber muffler. Plus it will be very protected above the rear axle.
Completed closed loop feedback EVAP system with GM’s fuel tank pressure sensor and vent valve. Also inside the Chrysler ESIM (EVAP System Integrity Monitor) there is a shuttle valve that you want to pin in place to keep it from moving and allow the GM system to function unobstructed.
Also in the picture you can see the new fill tube. There was a TSB out a couple years ago with the addition of the new fill tube which has a check valve to prevent spit back which the early JK’s are known for.
Here is where I crossed the chassis wiring loom over to the driver’s side. I also installed some OEM style loom retainers as the driveshaft resides just below and you want the wiring to stay put.
Here I tie wrapped the chassis loom up to the front where it will plug into the factory GM engine harness.
Here is the driver’s side downstream O2 sensor connector. Remember the upstream one is located on the engine harness.
At this point the chassis is now ready to accept the body. Next up is to prep the body then marry the two back up.
Thanks for looking.
Mike
