ZMotorSports 2011 JKUR Build Thread

I am new here but thought I would throw up some pictures of my latest Jeep build. It is not real time as I have owned it now for almost two years.

I bought the Jeep with only 3208 miles on the odometer and commenced building my "Dream Jeep". This is my daily driver and weekend wheeler.

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On lift just before sitting it down with the 4" BDS Suspension Lift and 35" KM2 tires/ATX Crawl wheels.
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Backed outside the shop after just barely sitting her on the ground with new lift and tires/wheels.
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More to come as I dig through the pictures. Also pictured here is the Warn Rockcrawler bumper/Powerplant combination that I purchased used just to get me by until I could fabricated my own bumpers.

Mike.
 
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Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Geez Mike, I have a decent shop... but I'm jealous of your setup! How tall are your ceilings, 14'?

The JKU looks great, clean up nicely!
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I am tired of messing with my BDS proprietary bushings so I need to fabricate some new suspension links/control arms for my Jeep. I have a BDS long-arm suspension system which for the most part I like the ride, flex and handling, HOWEVER the bushings they used are proprietary and I have had to replace them twice, this will be the third time, in less than 50k miles, not to mention the above mentioned snap-ring issue that I have had to address prior. Not acceptable, so I am building new links to accept the OEM style Clevite rubber incapsulated bushings at the axle and then I am going to use Currie's Johnny Joints at the frame connection. These are proven to be a much more durable setup.

I started by cutting some thick walled mild steel tubing to size with the horizontal bandsaw before chucking it up in the lathe.
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Boring the I.D. to size. This will also have a .039" step machined into it as the bushing itself has a two step ridge. I have calculated for a .002" interference fit at both ridges.
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Now that the inside bore is to size I will turn the O.D. down to 2.750" giving me a little over .200" wall thickness.
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Two down and two to go.
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All four are completed.
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Next up is to get the uppers machined and then I am ready to measure out some tubing and get to fabricating the new links.

Mike.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Good choice on the Clevite bushings. The bad news (now that you're already done) is that you could have used 2.75" .250 DOM for the bushing sleeves, and just need to machine the little relief in the one side. :D
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Good choice on the Clevite bushings. The bad news (now that you're already done) is that you could have used 2.75" .250 DOM for the bushing sleeves, and just need to machine the little relief in the one side. :D

True, but I already had this in my pile of steel and didn't have to buy any additional material. This was the closest I had on hand.

Mike.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Last night I got the two remaining sleeves machined. These are a bit smaller and will reside at the upper rear axle location with similar Clevite style bushings.
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Sleeves completed.
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All six sleeves completed and ready to start measuring, cutting and fabricating new suspension links/control arms.
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Hopefully tonight after work the Jeep goes on the lift and work commences.

Mike.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Well it was a long weekend but I was able to get my Jeep suspension completely fabricated and installed.

Warning: Picture Heavy:

I put the Jeep on the lift and removed all front upper and lower control arms/links for duplication with Clevite bushings at the axle ends and Currie's Johnny Joints at the frame ends. The Clevite rubber incapsulated bushings will be installed into the sleeves that I machined earlier in the week, shown above.
Here is my lower link. I threw together a quick make-shift fixture to ensure setting the new links to the exact same length. I just used a piece of .750" square tubing with a .500" shaft welded at each end which the link slipped onto.
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I then mocked up my new sleeve/Clevite bushing and Johnny Joint to calculate the length of the new tubing.
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It was at this point the light bulb came on. I had new 1.750"x.250" DOM that I was going to use but where I was going to be using less length than what the original BDS links measured, why not just cut the ends off the BDS links and weld my sleeves and threaded bungs to. This would save me from wasting tubing plus eleviate me from having to bend up the links which would actually save some time.

That is what I did, cut the BDS bushing ends off and re-used the DOM tubing.
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Link clamped in my mill to drill a hole all the way through the tubing for rosette/plug welds for the threaded bung/sleeve.
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Mocked up on the fixture for a test fit, to ensure I cut enough tube to allow for some adjustment.
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Threaded bung welded into tubing.
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Few pictures of the front lower two links ready for prep and paint.
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I opted to TIG weld the uppers due to the close thinner wall tubing of the Currie weld-on narrow JJ ends.
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All front links sanded, prepped and ready for paint.
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After allowing the POR-15 to dry overnight I then pressed the Clevite bushings into the machined sleeves on the lower links.
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I then applied some anti-seize into the threaded bung as well as on the threads of the Johnny Joint and assembled then placed on my fixture to set to the correct length.
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Front upper and lower links assembled and ready for installation back into the Jeep.
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Before installation I noticed that on the front lowers the OEM are actually adjustable a small amount buy using an eccentric. This required the through holes to be slightly over-sized for the 14mm bolts. Although the bolts will be tightened and thus eliminating the slop I wanted a little more surface area on the shank of the bolt to eliminate any fore and aft movement once installed. This will give extra support so it is not merely relying on the friction of the clamping force of the fastener.

I machined four spacers that were 14mm inside diameter for the bolt and 1.5" OD by .125" thick. I then placed them onto the lower mounts using the bolts to hold in place while I stitch welded a couple of welds to secure them to the lower mounts.
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Front suspension installed. I tightened the frame ends (Johnny Joints) but left the axle ends loose. You do NOT want to tighten the incapsulated rubber style bushings unless you have the vehicle sitting down at ride height, otherwise you will preload stress into the bushings and cause pre-mature wear/failure. I actually set the vehicle down with the nuts threaded on hand tight, drive the vehicle around the block bouncing it to let the suspension "settle in", then pull it back into the shop and tighten the axle ends.
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Pictures of the rear following.

Mike.
 
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zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Moving onto the rear links/control arms.

I clamped the rear upper links into the mill vise and used a large end mill to cope/fishmouth the link to accept the newly machined bushing sleeve.
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I then chamfered the end to allow good penetration as the upper links are solid and not tubing.
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The adjustable end for the upper is threaded tube so I coped/fishmouthed it the same way to accept the Currie Johhny Joint weld-on narrow joint.
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Rear upper adjustable ends TIG welded and ready for paint.
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Few pictures of the lower links all welded and ready for sanding and paint.
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All of the old BDS link ends cut off and the pile of remnants.
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While the Jeep was on the lift I decided to scuff the frame rails down and freshen up the paint on the frame to match the newly fabricated and painted suspension links.
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And lastly after taking it for a spin around the block, I pulled it back into the shop to torque the axle end down.
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After tightening the axle ends and double checking all other fasteners I took it for its test drive. Now that all the play or slop is gone in the suspension it feels like a completely different Jeep. I hated pulling up to stop signs because I could feel the clearance and then again at take-off. Now nothing.:rocker: I even hit reverse and forward while power braking (well as much power as a Jeep has) and no slop at all in the suspension. I hope to get many trouble free miles from this setup unlike the past 40k+ miles and several bushing replacements.

Mike.
 

skippy

Pretend Fabricator
Location
Tooele
Nice work, This is the first BDS long arm I have seen on a JK. It seems like it would have crazy amounts of anti squat in the rear. Have you noticed it while playing in the rocks
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Nice work, This is the first BDS long arm I have seen on a JK. It seems like it would have crazy amounts of anti squat in the rear. Have you noticed it while playing in the rocks

Thank you.

As far as anti-squat, there is not nearly as much as I would have thought with the close proximity of the upper and lower control arms at the frame. Many of the kits I looked at had more separation at the frame mount but I also noticed their frame mounted brackets either hung down further than I liked or the upper mounts mounted further up inside the frame rail. This is not a bad idea on the left side but with that long slender fuel cell on the right side the upper mounts can get tricky.

I had talked to a few people and ridden in a JKU with the BDS before puchasing mine and was pleasantly impressed with the limited amount of anti-squat it had. I have had my Jeep built since November of 2011 now and it flat rocks in the rocks.:D I love it.

Despite the bushing issues I have been very pleased with the length of the control arms, the frame connection points/bracketry, SS brake lines and spring rates on the coils themselves. The overall ride quality both on and off pavement is fantastic, even at relatively fast speeds off road. It was the bushings that I have been less than pleased with. BDS now offers the same kit either with their poly bushings OR the OEM style Clevite bushings in axle end of their arms. However, at the frame ends they still have their proprietary poly bushings that are less than stellar.

Personally, I think the Clevite at the axle end and the Currie Johnny Joints at the frame end are about the perfect setup, but that is just my opinion.

EDIT: After posting I had a thought come to mind. The more weight there is to transfer back and the further off the ground it is results in squat. My Jeep is quite heavy @ 6k pounds so I think that has something to do with why the closely mounted pivot points at the frame of the BDS system works so well fighting the squat or anti-squat. The orientation of the links at the frame work well to counteract the squat due to the weight, if that makes sense. Off-road the rear end really stay quite level and doesn't try to lift up much at all if any.

Mike.
 
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zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Awesome Mike. I know that feeling all too well of finally getting rid of the suspension slop.

Thanks Brian. I don't know how to act not feeling the Jeep slop around at a stop sign.

I dig the clean shop.

Great work

Thank you. I appreciate that. You know what they say, a clean shop is the sign of a sick mind.:rofl: Actually, I just can't work in a clutter or disorganization.

Mike.
 

nnnnnate

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
WVC, UT
So you said that you scuffed up and painted the frame rails. Did you use POR15 on it or something else similar? I'd guess you brushed it on to keep from over spraying everything else?

I just bought some KBS RustSeal for my trailer and I'm certain that I'll have plenty left over. It supposed to be a sort of updated version of POR15 so I wondered about using it on my undercarriage.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
So you said that you scuffed up and painted the frame rails. Did you use POR15 on it or something else similar? I'd guess you brushed it on to keep from over spraying everything else?

I just bought some KBS RustSeal for my trailer and I'm certain that I'll have plenty left over. It supposed to be a sort of updated version of POR15 so I wondered about using it on my undercarriage.

Nate, on the frame rails themselves I actually used the Eastwood Extreme Chassis Paint in an aerosol can. I have not been a fan of aerosol paints in the past but I have actually had very good results lately and the Eastwood Extreme paints are very durable. We did my son's LJ two years ago and it still looks as good as the day he sprayed it and that is after two winters, although this last one was pretty mild.

I have actually read somewhere that the VHT Epoxy Black paint is very good and very comparable to the Eastwoods but cheaper. I have not tried it but intend to in the future for a comparison as the Eastwood Extreme is spendy.

I just masked along the rockers, wiped down the frame with pre-cleaner/wax & grease remover, scuffed with a red Scotchbrite pad, wiped down again with pre-cleaner and sprayed.

Mike.
 
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