We've touched on this topic before, but I thought it would be nice to have a thread dedicated to it with pictures and instructions.
I did this eye splice in 1/4" Samson Amsteel Blue rope. Most of the time we will be using thicker rope, but this particular rope is for a small ATV winch on my rear suspension. The instructions are identical regardless of the rope size.
I referred to these instructions on the Samson web site.
Before you start you should make sure the end of your rope is taped up tight to keep it from coming unbraided.
You may find it helpful to have a partner help you. Two sets of hands can be helpful in some steps. My helper proved to only be...
Rules to the 'How To' section, READ before posting.
The idea behind this Forum is to allow a place where extremely custom modifications can be written up & posted. Since Rockcrawling is truly a owner-Fabricated sport, we want to allow our members the chance to show what they have built or changed on their own Rigs. The rules are as follows.
1- Post a well written, detailed description of the Mod.
2 -Including pics, if you have the tools to do so.
3- Include approx. time and cost estimates, as well as required parts.
4- Post a follow up 'Trail Test', with the results.
5- Answer questions about your mods to folks intrested in doing something similar, if they are asked.
These guidelines are somewhat general, but do not let them...
So i have been researching this old idea, backing a 465 with a second one, run backwards. That 1.70:1 gear would make a 0.59:1
Mating the tails of a pair of 2wd 465s is simple. The challenge is getting the input of the rear one to run a driveshaft.
But Spicer makes a yoke that fits on the $89 MD-465 1.5" input, and takes a 1410 u-joint. And it's only $45. The Spicer part number is 3-4-6561-1.
If. I ever do it, I'll post pics somewhere on the net, depending on where i don't get ridiculed for it. Pirate4x4 already failed.
I haven't picked up a TIG torch for about a year now and out of the blue I got the itch again. In all, I have probably less than 10 sticks of filler through a TIG welder, so I'm still very much a rookie. I know we don't all TIG weld, but I think there is enough interest in it to make a thread for tips and tricks. Well, I have no tips or tricks to offer, but I'm willing throw some projects out there for the experienced guys to pick over so we can all learn together.
In this project I needed to make some trailer stakes with some strap pockets welded to them. The material I used was 3x1.5x1/8" rectangular tube as well as 2.5" square 1/8" tube.
Getting my parts lined up.
These are settings I went with. The 151 seems very high to me...
I plan to make 2 single hinge folding 7' ramps into 1 10' dual hinge folding ramp. The ramps are a light weight aluminum. I am going to cut both ramps, and join them together. The right answer is probably to have someone with skill and a tig welder do it for me. However, I occasionally have small aluminum projects, and it would be cool to learn to solve my own problems. The WWW says that aluminum brazing is very easy and should be sufficient, or there is an aluminum stick welding option.
I would weld along my joints, and then add an aluminum strap on both sides of the ramp supports to give additional strength.
Any one have experience with brazing or stick welding aluminum?
I have been browsing around and looking for interior tub dimensions for my cj. I am not near my cj for the next 2 weeks and trying to design and build stuff is really getting to me. I'm trying to design a rear drawer set that goes under the back seat and goes all the way up to the bulkhead behind the rear seats. I want to then remount a seat on top of the drawer set. Pretty much I just need all of the interior dimensions of the tub from behind the front seats all the way to the rear bumper.
This seems to come up often enough that I thought I'd document how I did mine. The pictures I have are all of my set of 16s, but it is the same process whether you are building 15s, 16s, 16.5s, or 17s. I used 16x7 steel wheels. The beadlocks add about an inch or so to the width of the wheel, so I ended up with 16x8 beadlock wheels.
The first thing you need to do is determine which side of your wheels you need to put the beadlock rings on. This may sound stupid, but let me explain. On the inside of the wheels is a "dished out" area that is used to allow the tire enough room to stretch over the bead when mounting. The dished out area is positioned to one side on the wheel. It is nearly always off-set to the outside facing surface...
does anyone have a spec book for the 4.0 that goes into detail about engine specs like crank diameters, cam lift and such?
I can find books that talk about how to rebuild and such but nothing tells me what the diameters are and sizes other then the bore and stroke....
If you know of a book or have one I would be interested in obtaining one...
I ordered a set of no lift brackets about a week ago. They arrived promptly and i decided to do a install on them. So here goes.
First make sure its all there.
Remove tires and secure weight of vehicle on jacks.
Get rid of wife and get to work removing shackles.
Once shackles removed from brackets lower the suspension to give you room. Then start removing stock brackets with grinder, sawzah, plasma cutter, ect.
Make sure the bracket area is fully removed to allow space for new bracket to takes it place.
Test fit new bracket. Check holes for alignment.
Once area is ready for installation mark the two holes on top of bracket to allow for drilling. This is the black bolts supplied. You are required to...
Alright. So this is a super easy install. I did it with a new, empty carrier, but I don't think it would be much harder in the axle, in or out of a vehicle. This took like 20min, with time to find a couple tools. You will need: some pliers, a punch for the roll pin in the carrier, and a hammer to... hit the punch. :D
Here is the new, 4.56-up carrier, and the Spartan in a box.
Here's what's inside the Spartan box: locker parts! woot.
Here's what's inside the bag: a new cross-pin, some grooved pins, springs, and some wires. More on those later.
The springs go inside the pins. Elapsed time for install? About 1 minute.
Registering your Vehicle as an Off-highway only vehicle
By: Caleb Call
No matter if your vehicle is a competition tube framed buggy on 40" tires or a Toyota Four Runner on 32" tires, sometimes it just makes more sense to register your vehicle as an Off-Highway Vehicle (OHV). Registering your vehicle as an OHV is a permanent change in the titling of your vehicle. It has never been real clear on what exactly you need to do and the steps that need to be taken in order to register your vehicle as such. You would always get different stories and steps depending on the person you spoke with about this. Having recently gone through the process I will give an outline of what needs to be done to keep your vehicle legal.
Ok i have read a lot about doing this swap. After all my reading I have not seen anyone do it with anything but stock leads. Which gives it about a 2-3 inch lift. Well if I use 6 inch lift Chevy springs where will that put me on my runner? Do you know anyone that has done this that might know?
Alright. This is a how-to that probably had its place 5 years ago, but some of us cheap bastards are still running H1's. And when you do, you'll want to ditch the stock runflats: the radial tires(12bolt rims) were all supposed to have rubber inserts, with the bias tires(8bolt rims) getting magnesium-ally, bolt-together deals.
This is what you're starting with: an insert, and a tire to put it into. I'm using PVC inserts from TrailWorthy Fab, they are rounded over, chamfered, and have a nice space for the valve stem to sit into and it ensures that air will get past the the insert. Available at www.trailworthyfab.com. :D
Take the tire, and smush it on top of the insert. The idea is to get the insert wedged in there; the...
I built up a gas tank skid plate yesterday for the Commando project and needed to make some long 90 degree bends. My dad's sheet metal brake was too wimpy to bend 1/8 inch so I put a rosebud on the torch and tried to heat and bend it with the torch and some angle iron. However there was no way to keep a long section hot enough to bend and the first bend came out pathetic. So I came up with what I call "bending on the dotted line". I marked the line I wanted to bend then clamped a piece of angle iron near the line then busted out the plasma cutter. Instead of cutting the whole length of the plate I alternated a pattern of cut for an inch skip an inch cut a inch , skip an inch. When I was done it was easy to bend it. Then I welded up the...
Here is some valuable information dealing with types of Tubing, including structures, specifications, applications, size ranges, and chemical analysis.
*Credit goes to 'Old Scout', thanks for the info.*
DOM, ERW, HREW...all types of "mechanical tubing", as opposed to pipe. All mechanical tubing is dimensioned by OD and a wall thickness.
DOM is actually not a type of tubing, but a process that is applied to tubing after it is initially constructed. It is Drawn Over a Mandrel...which "cold works" it, giving more exact dimensions, smoother finish, and better alignment of the crystal latice structure. It is Not seamless tubing, and it started life as some sort of EW (electric welded) tubing...
OK, my truck had nothing in the way of flex in the rear when I bought it. The goal I had in mind was to build a rig on a budget, so I didn't have any plans for Coilovers or anything like that. What my truck did have was a mix of the Stock sping pack and a set of NWOR lift springs, :rolleyes: ! Talk about stiff!! That combo allowed for about as much flex as a Shopping cart would have, it was BAD.
No, I don't know how to do it, but I'm hoping YOU DO! Tell me where to drill my holes! I know I can just drill and tap the caps, but I have heard bad things about drilling the front cap as it is too thin and will break. Also, it's aluminum, so it's difficult to add thickness to it.
After I lifted the '84 and replaced the push/pull steering with a Hi-Steer kit I also needed an IFS steering box. I bought one from richpblaze on RME and it has worked flawlessly up until late. The input shaft seal has been leaking since the U4WDA winter convention, tired of the ATF puddling in my driveway I located a seal through NAPA.
This is the lazy man's fix, it does not require removing the box from the Truck, nor does it involve a full tear down of the box for the typical re-build.
Here are the tools I used, pretty basic stuff:
Seal NAPA part number--7007--this was a special order seal for a Cressida, it was $5.00.
12MM Wrench for top bolt, a socket could be used.
14MM Socket with long extension for lower bolt...
I had to get some of those damn anti-theft lugs off today without the little key adapter guy. Get a socket big enough to pound onto the lug with a hammer. Then, unscrew it with a breaker bar or something. Would work good for a frozen lug too. What?! I wasn't steeling wheels and tires off a Bronco!:D ;)