6.0 powerstroke rebuild.

Rot Box said:

Very nice, I need to do my park brake pads as well sooner than later. I was under the impression the hubs had to come off to do them is that not the case?

Click to expand...

Nope. Just have to turn the adjusters from the back side. FYI, moving the adjuster wheel down moves the shoes toward the drum (tighter). They are also the same, Driver and Passenger. The adjusters are turned 180 from side to side which was nice.

New pads, shoes and rotors on. E-brake is functional now yay.


Hopefully I can get the new radiator and hoses installed today and the oil cooler backflushed.

Got the oil cooler flushed, hoses and radiator replaced. I got a ton of debris out of the oil cooler.

You have to remove the egr cooler plate which is difficult. If you don't have one of these icon bit drivers, I recommend you get one. I use it all the time.


Oil cooler cap directly under the turbo.


I tried flushing with just the hose and got a little debris.


Then I added some compressed air at 30psi with this setup.



Bumping the air seemed to get the best result. I got 4 flushes with about this much debris using compressed air.


Most of this is iron. Some sand colored flakes.
Once it was running clean I replaced the radiator. The old one weighed about 10 lbs more than the new. Likely sediment and dirt built up.


Bulletproof diesel includes the tool for removing the trans cooler lines. I thought that was an awesome extra and wish more companies did this. Here's the tool number in care anyone needs it in the future.



Got it all buttoned up and refilled with Rotella ELC coolant.

I think I have an air bubble, it only took 5 gallons of di water and coolant. I'll drive it some more and see if the air works it's way out. Hopefully this will improve my oil/coolant temps and get me a few more years with the truck.

Have put about 100 miles on it so far. Highest coolant temp was 200 going over Suncrest in 90 degree heat. That is about 10 degrees cooler than before. The oil temp is much better now too. Largest delta has been 3 degrees where before it was 10-20. I'll see how much better it does pulling my camp trailer later this month. Looks like it was a worthy upgrade/maintenance item.

Next on the list of maint items. The seam sealant on the cab has been peeling for about a year. I got up there after washing it an noticed the sealant had separated from the cab and had let water under it and I had some rust starting. So I pealed up the sealant and started sanding/ wire wheeling. This is what I got to.

Here is my question for the body guys, what product should I use to seal it and should I put down a coat of rust converter first, then seal, then paint?

My “better” way I’d do it;

•2k primer sealer
•Seam sealer (maybe thinned a bit so it self-levels)
•2k primer sealer
•2k base coats
•2k clear coats

___

But given the age of the truck and the fact that it’s on the roof and other variables, what I would actually recommend is;

•2k primer sealer
•thinned seam sealer
•single stage
•done

STAG said:

My “better” way I’d do it;

•2k primer sealer
•Seam sealer (maybe thinned a bit so it self-levels)
•2k primer sealer
•2k base coats
•2k clear coats

___

But given the age of the truck and the fact that it’s on the roof and other variables, what I would actually recommend is;

•2k primer sealer
•thinned seam sealer
•single stage
•done

Click to expand...

That's pretty much what I was thinking. I do have a paint bubble on the rear passenger door so if I'm going to get the paint sprayer out, I might as well cover that too. But like you say, it's an old poop brown work truck, if I decide to keep it another 10 years I'll likely paint it a better color anyway. Maybe Lunar rock to match my girl truck