The Rubi Q Build

and the numbers are?

Sorry. Last night got crazy. @Greg was pretty close, kind of.




Because of the noise we heard while coasting he would not do a full pull. Ironically when he did the few 4k pulls I didn’t hear the noise once coasting. Not sure why. I didn’t have time last night to listen for it. Just got it off the trailer and parked it.
So in an effort to reduce driveline speed he made the 4k pulls in third gear, which underrates the numbers. More accurate numbers would have needed fourth gear, and higher driveline speeds.
He estimates both HP and torque should be 30 higher at the peaks on this graph. So 344 torque and 270 HP, with a lot more HP left on the table. The important thing is that the tuning wouldn’t change any based on the higher rpm’s that we didn’t see. So it should be dialed. As it is, it’s a very conservative tune. Not much fuel or timing. It should always run well on the stock fuel system.
I may go back at some point for the full graph. Probably if I decide I don’t like the way it runs. Time will tell.

Ok ok ok. The real update here. The dyno tune turned out great. I not sure if I’m 100% happy with it but it’s close. The computer and trans are still learning so I hope it gets a bit better in time. The tuner removed the transmission code that was putting me in limp mode. I guess the ECM didn’t like that the TCM was turning off with the key instead of with the power train relay which would be controlled by the ECM from GM. So now it shifts great every time.

The one dyno shot I took. They wouldn’t let me get any closer.


So I got it home and it set for a few days. I finally got around to looking at the rattling noise we heard. To me it sounded like the transfer case. I did some reading and found out that 5w-30 is supposed to be a better option in these cases than ATF-4. They run smoother and quieter. So I dropped the brand new AFT I had in there and put in the 5-30. Took it for a drive and found it made no change to the rattle. I then went after the rear driveshaft and found a small bit of play in the slip yoke splines. I pulled it apart and packed it with grease. It helped for a few light pulls up and down my street then went back to rattling. I opted to replace it.

Big shout out to @Agility Customs who got a Toms Woods CV shaft headed my way for a great price.

While I waited for that I noticed my right rear wheel seal started to leak. So I jumped on that and got a new seal and bearing installed. Parking brake shoes and pads looked great so I didn’t mess with them.

The driveshaft showed up last night and I got it installed tonight.


WOW!!! The first 2-3 passes down my street were great. This thing drives so smooth. The rattle is gone and I now felt more comfortable getting on it. This was the first real drive since the tuning. It drives really well. We then did a few 3/4 throttle hits. In first gear it’s just stupid. The whole front of the jeep goes sky high. The front left tire has to be close to lifting. Rolling through first to second then hitting it throws you back. You can really feel the torque that way. My son and I were both just giggling. It was so much fun.
Then I got Livy and took her for a drive doing the same stuff. She loved it. I then swapped seats with her. She had a blast driving it. It drives great. The three link on the front axle is not noticeable. So far it seems to drive no different now, at least steering and suspension wise.

Things left to do:
-Tach is not working right.
-Tap shift is not working.
-Need to change the VIN to the Jeep VIN in the GM ECM.
-Need to get emissions done so I can register it again.
-Build A/C lines from the compressor and drier.
-Install heater hoses with heater core bypass ball valves.
-Loom wiring harness once I know it’s all right.
-Install Christmas winch.
-Rubicon trail.

Just did about 8 miles on side streets and 10 on the freeway. She did great! Temps outside are just below 100 right now. The jeep water temp gauges aren’t known for their accuracy, but it never went above the 210 mark and was usually just under it. Really wishing the A/C was finished though.
For the first time ever the cruise control was actually useful. Hummed along very comfortably at 72mph. No big hills or anything but it adjusted perfectly to changes in the road.
The tach still isn’t reading right, but the rest of the gauges are happy.




The rest of the parts for the winch mount should be here today. I hope to have that installed today.

Got the winch finished up tonight. The rope had a thimble and hook attached, which I didn’t want so I removed them. This forced me to try a Brummel eye splice. I found a video that had a good explanation and went for it. I have a very cheap and short set of fids that I thought would be good to keep in the jeep. They did the job but I’m sure it would have been easier with longer ones.

Starting the brummel.


The taper ended up being the more difficult part. I buried 12” of full rope then tapered about 12” more. In the end there is no distinct edge or end of the buried rope which I think is the goal. The original rope had about 1” of taper and a very abrupt edge. I’m confident this will work better.


I used the duct tape method of holding the rope to the drum.


Fully wrapped. Ive been tossing around several ideas on how to secure the loop. The idea being to have as little exposed rope as possible. Just to keep it out of the sun. I think for daily driving I’ll just tuck the loop under the drum like this. I don’t imagine it will move much and it’s still easy to reach when I need to use it.


So that’s it. Christmas winch installed.

It's $$$$$, but here is a cool option for storing the end of the rope:

To be honest, that’s the exact reason I went with that massive Warn fairlead. There’s plenty of material that I can remove either behind the logo so that the rope loops around it or I can put a grove at either end so it would loop around the mounting bolt. More like there’s does. Just need to decide if I care to at this point. I know it looks a little funny without the rope sticking out. Maybe I’ll loose some duck points for that.

So I sent my ECM to LSX Tuning in Texas to do the reprogram of my VIN. I got it back yesterday and hooked it up. I plugged my scanner in and did an auto vin identification. It pulled up the old GM VIN and Yukon information. 😡
I called them today and they said most likely my scanner has stored my ecm’s serial number so it automatically associates it to the original vin. I grabbed my scanner from work tonight and plugged it in. It auto detected the Jeep vin! I plugged my scanner back in and went into the emissions readiness section. It then showed the Jeep vin and model information. Also showed the emissions status as ready.
So tomorrow I will attempt to get the emissions done. 🤞

On another frustrating note. I found a guy that said he could laser etch my steering wheel buttons and it turned out bad.

Before


After


I think I need to find an actual engraver, like a small mill. Then back fill with white paint. Any other ideas?

Emissions done and passed!!!!

This is a huge load off my shoulders. I just got home and jumped on the DMV website and purchased a two year registration for a whopping $99.60. $50 of that was for the personalized plate renewal!

So to get to the emissions testing station I was about 20 miles on the freeway at 70-75mph. I noticed the temperature gauge just passing the 210* mark. That's the hottest I've seen it get so far. Now our temp in town was 102* today, and I'm sure the temp on the freeway was hotter than that. The main thing I noticed is that it stopped climbing. I did back out of it and noticed the temp come back down to right on the 210 mark. I'll do the drive again tomorrow with the scan tool plugged in and see what the engine is actually seeing.

Once at the station I waited for two cars in front of me. While idling the temp came back down to a bit under the 210 mark, which is where I'm used to seeing it. Once it was my turn I idled it into the bay, being careful not to touch the throttle. This jeep is very quiet at idle, which I love, and doesn't give much indication of anything special under the hood. The guy had me turn the Jeep off then back to the run position so he could see the MIL light up. Then I started it and we watch the light turn off after a second or two. Then he tested the gas cap and that was that. I paid and left. He never looked under the hood or body.
I did notice that he scanned the barcode in the door jam when I pulled in. Now it's got me thinking that that is where their system is getting the Jeep information. Once the test was done and he printed out my paperwork he looked at it and then verified my VIN in the windshield. Maybe the VIN in the ECM is not needed. Oh well, it's done and working. I'll just have to buy new credits if I do any more tuning....

Then it was an effortless (but hot) drive home with the cruise control at 75.
A/C is next.

What is this two year registration you speak of?

Arizona. You can get up to 5 year.

Gotcha

I wish 5 year was an option for the Jeep. That would be awesome.

I think I mentioned a couple weeks ago that the right rear wheel seal started leaking. I jumped on it and got it sealed up with a new bearing as well. Well that lasted like three days before it started leaking again. I was bugged by that that I grounded the jeep for two weeks to think about it. Looking at specs I found the precision wheel seal had a 5 thou smaller OD and a 5 thou larger ID than a Spicer. I got the spicer parts and tried again today.



After finishing putting the axle back together I noticed the wipers were all junk and the engine oil was a bit low. I drove it over to Oreillys to pick some up. Anyone know if scratches in the glass can be removed? Ive had these scratches from day one.




So the engine was a bit low on oil. I topped it off and just for fun I pulled the dip stick on the oil catch can. To my surprise the can was about half full of oil. I only have about 100 miles in the jeep right now.



This concerned me. My first thought was blow by, perhaps from a broken ring or something. I removed the oil fill cap and ran the engine. I put my hand over the fill neck, expecting to feel some pressure blowing out. Instead it was vacuum. The vacuum was so strong it might have given my hand a @Hickey (see what I did there? 😂 ).
So PVC? I think they are built into the valve covers? I need to research a bit more. Now that I think of it, this engine was smoking like crazy before I pulled it from the Yukon. Then during tear down the intake was FULL of oil. Maybe I can put in an inline PVC in the catch can hose to slow the vacuum?

UNSTUCK said:

I think I mentioned a couple weeks ago that the right rear wheel seal started leaking. I jumped on it and got it sealed up with a new bearing as well. Well that lasted like three days before it started leaking again. I was bugged by that that I grounded the jeep for two weeks to think about it. Looking at specs I found the precision wheel seal had a 5 thou smaller OD and a 5 thou larger ID than a Spicer. I got the spicer parts and tried again today.

View attachment 177689

After finishing putting the axle back together I noticed the wipers were all junk and the engine oil was a bit low. I drove it over to Oreillys to pick some up. Anyone know if scratches in the glass can be removed? Ive had these scratches from day one.


View attachment 177691

So the engine was a bit low on oil. I topped it off and just for fun I pulled the dip stick on the oil catch can. To my surprise the can was about half full of oil. I only have about 100 miles in the jeep right now.

View attachment 177690

This concerned me. My first thought was blow by, perhaps from a broken ring or something. I removed the oil fill cap and ran the engine. I put my hand over the fill neck, expecting to feel some pressure blowing out. Instead it was vacuum. The vacuum was so strong it might have given my hand a @Hickey (see what I did there? 😂 ).
So PVC? I think they are built into the valve covers? I need to research a bit more. Now that I think of it, this engine was smoking like crazy before I pulled it from the Yukon. Then during tear down the intake was FULL of oil. Maybe I can put in an inline PVC in the catch can hose to slow the vacuum?

Click to expand...

I think it’s called a PCV, as in Positive Crankcase Vent. That being said, I think that’s to vent pressure, not vacuum.

UNSTUCK said:

I think I mentioned a couple weeks ago that the right rear wheel seal started leaking. I jumped on it and got it sealed up with a new bearing as well. Well that lasted like three days before it started leaking again. I was bugged by that that I grounded the jeep for two weeks to think about it. Looking at specs I found the precision wheel seal had a 5 thou smaller OD and a 5 thou larger ID than a Spicer. I got the spicer parts and tried again today.

View attachment 177689

After finishing putting the axle back together I noticed the wipers were all junk and the engine oil was a bit low. I drove it over to Oreillys to pick some up. Anyone know if scratches in the glass can be removed? Ive had these scratches from day one.


View attachment 177691

So the engine was a bit low on oil. I topped it off and just for fun I pulled the dip stick on the oil catch can. To my surprise the can was about half full of oil. I only have about 100 miles in the jeep right now.

View attachment 177690

This concerned me. My first thought was blow by, perhaps from a broken ring or something. I removed the oil fill cap and ran the engine. I put my hand over the fill neck, expecting to feel some pressure blowing out. Instead it was vacuum. The vacuum was so strong it might have given my hand a @Hickey (see what I did there? 😂 ).
So PVC? I think they are built into the valve covers? I need to research a bit more. Now that I think of it, this engine was smoking like crazy before I pulled it from the Yukon. Then during tear down the intake was FULL of oil. Maybe I can put in an inline PVC in the catch can hose to slow the vacuum?

Click to expand...

I believe they have gone to an orifice rather than a valve for PCV. Check and make sure it is there. There are aftermarket ones in a variety of sizes so the amount of vacuum on the crankcase can be tuned.

Also is the breather side blocked off somehow

I’m not sure what’s going on here. That Improved Racing web page says I want as much crank case vacuum as I can get. I guess I always figured the crank case should be neutral, and that the PVC valve regulated it.
I’ll check to make sure there is vacuum at the breather port. I assume there is and it’s the vacuum that’s drawing so much oil into the catch can.

I think I’ve watched every video on catch cans and PVC issues in LS engines today. I’m not sure I have made any progress after all that.
I think I plumbed the catch can wrong, but I’m not sure how much it matters. I ran a hose from the passenger side valve cover vent port to a T that then runs to the driver side vent port. The third leg of the T then runs to the inlet on the catch can. The outlet runs to the top of the intake manifold.
If I understand it right, the passenger side valve cover vent port is supposed to go to the air intake after the MAF sensor. It then sucks in clean air that circulates through the crank case, eventually making its way to the catch can and then to the intake manifold.
What I don’t get is what is happening in my crank case right now. The system is closed. So it’s not sucking any new air other than any blow by. Is that enough air flow to carry oil vapor to the catch can?

It sounds like the main issue with oil consumption is due to a bad baffle design in the driver side valve cover. The baffle does not allow enough draining action to take place so then oil gets sucked into the vent tube and then into the manifold. The fix is to drill a few more drain holes in the baffle. Simple enough.