Midget build?
- Thread starter 1969honda
- Start date
Picked up a complete 8" ranchero axle minus brakes today. Guy had an extra 3rd that he threw in with a newly installed spool and bearings. Said he installed it and quickly realized within a day that he didn't want a spool on the street. After that he swapped a complete 9" into the car for what a new posi would have cost.
I won't be needing the spool for anything, but now I have 2.79, 3.25 and 3.50 gears to choose from. Most likely sell off the spool and use the funds to save for a Eaton truetrac or similar gear drive limited slip.
I won't be needing the spool for anything, but now I have 2.79, 3.25 and 3.50 gears to choose from. Most likely sell off the spool and use the funds to save for a Eaton truetrac or similar gear drive limited slip.
Attachments
I'll try to get pictures up later tonight of this weekend progress. I mocked up the full clutch package and determined I need to shorten the input shaft by about a 1/2 inch. The splines are bottoming out on the bore of the flywheel and preventing the transmission from seating fully.
To make things easier to measure and fully see what the issue was I removed the transmission bellhousing and input shaft. Afterwards I pulled the top cover and tailhousing to inspect the tray of the transmission health. I was presently surprised to get really clean fluid when I drained it, and see what appears to be mint condition shifter fork pads, synchro, and gearing. Like no visible wear of the black nitride coatings or rounding of teeth on the brass synchros.
I then mocked up the input with bellhousing and clutch kit to the block and took measurements of everything. It was much easier to move things and, peek in the bellhousing thru the inspection cover and verify the input bearing was fully seated in the race.
*Notes for me:
Crankshaft counter bore is .823" ID for 1.100", then steps down to about .590 " ID for another .899" of depth.
Input shaft noise is 0.590-.591" in diameter by 0.885" length.
Turning off 0.500" and reducing the shaft to the input nose diameter will allow ~.130 of clearance between the flywheel register and the input shaft.
To make things easier to measure and fully see what the issue was I removed the transmission bellhousing and input shaft. Afterwards I pulled the top cover and tailhousing to inspect the tray of the transmission health. I was presently surprised to get really clean fluid when I drained it, and see what appears to be mint condition shifter fork pads, synchro, and gearing. Like no visible wear of the black nitride coatings or rounding of teeth on the brass synchros.
I then mocked up the input with bellhousing and clutch kit to the block and took measurements of everything. It was much easier to move things and, peek in the bellhousing thru the inspection cover and verify the input bearing was fully seated in the race.
*Notes for me:
Crankshaft counter bore is .823" ID for 1.100", then steps down to about .590 " ID for another .899" of depth.
Input shaft noise is 0.590-.591" in diameter by 0.885" length.
Turning off 0.500" and reducing the shaft to the input nose diameter will allow ~.130 of clearance between the flywheel register and the input shaft.
Last edited:
After getting the input shaft measurements and inspecting the transmission condition I decided to tackle some wiring.
I went thru the wiring connector charts and diagrams for the X190 BCM connector and the auto transmission connector. I used some partners tape and a pen to label every wire and either clipped or depinned each circuit.
In the process I pulled out all of diesel specific circuits, AT specific wiring, rear O2 sensor, A/C circuits and started removing some of the evap system circuits.
Today I've been rereading GMLAN High Speed Serial Data information. Wiring charts have (4) different GMLAN (+) and (-) twisted pairs. I think the #1 circuit is the only one I'll need since I don't have a BCM or any other fancy stuff.
I went thru the wiring connector charts and diagrams for the X190 BCM connector and the auto transmission connector. I used some partners tape and a pen to label every wire and either clipped or depinned each circuit.
In the process I pulled out all of diesel specific circuits, AT specific wiring, rear O2 sensor, A/C circuits and started removing some of the evap system circuits.
Today I've been rereading GMLAN High Speed Serial Data information. Wiring charts have (4) different GMLAN (+) and (-) twisted pairs. I think the #1 circuit is the only one I'll need since I don't have a BCM or any other fancy stuff.
Last edited:
More wiring harness modifications with grouping wires and deleting unnecessary stuff like A/C. Nothing to exciting there.
I received a Flex Fuel sensor and pigtail in the mail Saturday though. So I started integrating that into the harness.
I also built an extension harness for the throttle pedal.
I received a Flex Fuel sensor and pigtail in the mail Saturday though. So I started integrating that into the harness.
I also built an extension harness for the throttle pedal.
