Glockman's Rubi LJ

Updating the build thread after oh 7 years.

Specs
2006 Rubicon LJ
2003 5.3 LS
4l60E
NP241C with JB conversions SYE and 1310 flange
Novak Cable shifter.
Magnaflow exhaust
Swap details LS swap for the LJ


Teraflex lcg lift
Teraflex short front Upper control arms.
4" Teraflex springs
1" body lift and tummy tuck
Metal cloak track bars front and rear.
Teraflex Speed bumps Front and rear. Custom mounted in the frame on the rear. Details Here
Teraflex dual rate front sway bar.


Falcon TJ shocks
Currie Correctlync steering

37x12.50 R17 BFG KM2's on aluminum modular wheels.
1.25" Spidertrax wheel spacers

Factory lockers front and rear
4.88 gears
Chromoly shafts in the rear
RCV's up front
Teraflex HD diff cover on the front.
LCA skids


JCR Aluminum Hi lined fenders.
Currie front bumper with grill hoop
Warn 9.5Ti
Rear crusher corners (unknown brand)
Warn rock sliders.


Rigid 2x2 spots on Hella A pillar mounts
Amazon special LED headlights
LED tail lights -Tractor supply style
Sport cage


When I bought it
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360532065.388577.jpg


Current pic
20200830_161950.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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DW sucks to track down. When I bought my latest XJ it had it bad at 55+. I immediately ordered a tracbar with no TRE because in my experience it’s usually that TRE or a wallowed out hole on the axle side. But I still haven’t installed the tracbar because I took off the stock 235’s and threw on the 285 take-off’s and the DW is magically gone. I’ve gone 75+ a number of times and it’s been flawless.

So you could definitely mess with tire pressure and/or rotate the rear tires up front just for the sake of curiosity.
 
I would get dw specifically at 63-65 mph for a long time back when I daily'd the TJ. Couldn't figure it out till I bought new tires and had them balanced. Solved it immediately. Could be something stupid like that, especially if you're not seeing it till you hit higher speeds (at least for a jeep).
 
N-Smooth said:
DW sucks to track down. When I bought my latest XJ it had it bad at 55+. I immediately ordered a tracbar with no TRE because in my experience it’s usually that TRE or a wallowed out hole on the axle side. But I still haven’t installed the tracbar because I took off the stock 235’s and threw on the 285 take-off’s and the DW is magically gone. I’ve gone 75+ a number of times and it’s been flawless.

So you could definitely mess with tire pressure and/or rotate the rear tires up front just for the sake of curiosity.
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I've usually been able to identify the loose component causing it. But with all the steering being new I'm a little stumped. Tires could be the culprit.
SoopaHick said:
I would get dw specifically at 63-65 mph for a long time back when I daily'd the TJ. Couldn't figure it out till I bought new tires and had them balanced. Solved it immediately. Could be something stupid like that, especially if you're not seeing it till you hit higher speeds (at least for a jeep).
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I'll try a tire rotation. It's an easy item to cross off the list. I'm running balance beads and have no balance issues so hopefully it's a tire wear issue.
 
WAG is that slight movement in the frame mount.

IMO, a tire should not be able to cause DW if all is right and tight. I drove my LJ 400 miles on a badly bent front wheel once and it shook the shit out of the rig but never went into DW. Again just my opinion but if doing anything with your tires fixes your DW you didn't fix it you just temporarily put a trigger lock on one of the triggers. The underlying issue ain't tires. Tires should be able to shake the shit out of you and not even come close to DW. It's something further up the chain allowing DW. Track bar has always been the Number One culprit in my experience. But the crappy thing is it can be a combination of components none of which are really worn out but which all have enough wear to combine in DW when the harmonics get to harmonizing.

Movement in the frame mount sounds like an obvious place to start though.

- DAA
 
And 5* caster doesn't sound like a problem. But I'd be happier wiith 4* on 37's. I have mine at 4.5* on 35's. Excellent return to center etc. I'm still on the inverted Y too though - it's never given me any reason to change.

- DAA
 
I agree Dave, Trackbar has always been the culprit for me too. I noticed the heims on the track bar weren't timed with each other, one was CCW against the mount and the other side was cw against the bracket. I lined them up with each other and snugged up the lock nuts. Then I checked caster again measured on the rib on the bottom of the knuckle. This seemed more accurate than on the top of the upper BJ. It was reading 6.5 on both sides. I shortened the lower control arms to get 5.3* on both sides. Rotated the tires for good measure and did the chalk test. 25PSI seems about perfect with these Maxxis Razors.

While I was at it, I pulled the TF Sway bar out, I mean beat it out with a 5lb dead blow. The outer shaft had rust where the bushings ride. I cleaned it all up and ran some sandpaper through the delrin bushings. Greased everything and put it all back together.

Just took it for a 30 minute drive. DW is gone, the sway bar seems to be much more compliant now and all is well. Reducing the caster also reduced my front pinion angle and it feels smoother at 65 now too.
 
I have been doing some reading and measuring on the suspension on this thing. With the TF bumps, 4" lift springs and Falcon TJ shocks, I have approx 4" of up travel due to shock length but also limited by the front drive line contacting the exhaust cross over from the LS. The front TF Speed bumps are a 4" travel bump. That means they are riding on the bump pad all the time. It also means any droop causes them to slap. This got annoying AF so I pulled them out and sold them. Now I'm in search of a different solution.

Option A is get the 2" speed bumps that Teraflex only markets for the JT. I did call them and confirm that they are the same OD as the TJ bumps so they will fit in my current brackets. My thought is that 2" of free up travel before the bumps hit would be perfect.

Option B is buy some tube with a 2.25" OD, weld a cup on the end and run a normal bump stop like some Metal Cloaks. I can slide the tube into the current bracket and adjust the height with collars like the Teraflex speed bumps used. This is about $300 cheaper but I did like the soft landing of the speed bumps so I'm not sure how these would work out.

Either solution corrects the noise that I was getting from constant contact with the bump stops and a side bonus is the jeep rides better without that added damping.
 
Install a factory tj bump stop cup back in and run a factory style closed cell foam bump stop. If the falcon shocks don’t have the damping you’re after, sell them and call accutune for a custom tuned smooth body shock (likely a fox?).
 
I’ve only driven a couple Jeeps with either speed bumps or bump stops. I hated the feeling when they hit the pad. They have their place for sure, but that is why I left them off my mostly street LJ. I think you might still be disappointed with the 2”.
I’m in the same boat though. My driveshaft/pinion just hit my brand new exhaust. Not bad, but I do need to adjust my up travel a bit now.
 
glockman said:
I have been doing some reading and measuring on the suspension on this thing. With the TF bumps, 4" lift springs and Falcon TJ shocks, I have approx 4" of up travel due to shock length but also limited by the front drive line contacting the exhaust cross over from the LS. The front TF Speed bumps are a 4" travel bump. That means they are riding on the bump pad all the time. It also means any droop causes them to slap. This got annoying AF so I pulled them out and sold them. Now I'm in search of a different solution.

Option A is get the 2" speed bumps that Teraflex only markets for the JT. I did call them and confirm that they are the same OD as the TJ bumps so they will fit in my current brackets. My thought is that 2" of free up travel before the bumps hit would be perfect.

Option B is buy some tube with a 2.25" OD, weld a cup on the end and run a normal bump stop like some Metal Cloaks. I can slide the tube into the current bracket and adjust the height with collars like the Teraflex speed bumps used. This is about $300 cheaper but I did like the soft landing of the speed bumps so I'm not sure how these would work out.

Either solution corrects the noise that I was getting from constant contact with the bump stops and a side bonus is the jeep rides better without that added damping.
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I vote for option A, just so I can give you shit about using Jeep truck parts on your LJ. 😚
 
RockChucker said:
Install a factory tj bump stop cup back in and run a factory style closed cell foam bump stop. If the falcon shocks don’t have the damping you’re after, sell them and call accutune for a custom tuned smooth body shock (likely a fox?).
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This is what I needed to hear. I keep thinking this is the best way. Thanks for the input Dave!

Greg said:
I vote for option A, just so I can give you shit about using Jeep truck parts on your LJ. 😚
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I hope I never have a shortage of friends that will give me shit when I deserve it. Lucky, I've been convinced to avoid the Jeep truck parts. You'll have to give me shit about something else, there are a plethora of options to pick from.
 
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