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I compared before I posted and swag doesn’t come close when you compare capacity. Then you need legit table plates and a press. Either way, you’re paying retail...... I have 80% of the material needed to build something between this and what I posted on the first page. Then I get bored and move...

Putting a man on the moon isn’t nearly as cool as what a computer can do for shop guys https://weldtables.com/collections/clamps-accessories/products/certiflat-fabpress-diy-press-brake I thought the price was a little lower but still neat as hell. I’d buy vs burning up material allotted for...

Panhard brackets as of 1-20. Packing up shop and moving again. Long after the death of ultra4 we’ll return.

Post vin on irate. They’ll fetch pics of owners wife and confirm if it has a sunroof or not to $h!t in.

Made it this far tonight. 43 somethin pieces all made from scratch and tacked together. Rockers and rear floor/B pillar support tomorrow with a new panhard and brackets hopefully. Last picture is the frenched bolt pockets I mentioned before.

Stopped by the local hardware that has $h*t for bolts....Grantsville carried G8 coarse AND fine thread up to 1”. Can’t find that around here. I looked hard enough and lucked out. Found they have plenty of thread choices and shoulder lengths for racecarererery activities. Umm rock crawler...

Late to the party but....Affiliated. They never hit me with a minimum purchase although I last shopped there 2+ years ago....so? I always walked right through the front door, looked at the receptionist and said find me someone who wants to take my money. I’d go back to a cubicle and we’d hash it...

A married Ford 205 is 18” wide clocked flat (horse a piece in oe drop) 11.5” high without a chop, clocked flat (this is oe frame mount casting sticking up) 9.5” output offset C/L +/- 5” output drop in oe config (no adapter/clocking ring) I know you don’t have room but for anyone curious...

500hp, yep, Greg will definitely be holding the steering wheel tight with his legs flailing like coat tails behind the Jeep tub

Left myself wide open on that one! Dang it! Again! Doh

I don’t need anything industrial just something to combat carpal tunnel and.......I don’t like the finish on his tubes. I switched to a da for joint prep but the pads clog up too quick and again fatigue sets in/patience gets short. The material from my supplier comes with a heavy mill lube...

Just one?!?!? Well, how about an all encompassing tip, never ignore the advice and wisdom of those older than you.

Link tabs were made today 3/8 x 2-1/2 To make quick work of duplicate tabs I make these “billets”. Note the offset hole, it was also drilled 3/4 to match the radius in the square tube. There will be a lot more 3/4 radius magic later in the build My rme workshop mess contribution WB looks to...

And so a buggy is born

Rawr 😍

Hesitant to reply but I wouldn’t be a scared to mount the uppers wide and low around the diff. The triangulation will still be plenty enough for lateral control. The “numbers” aren’t always right. Mount the lowers lower on the axle tube. You jeep guys are used to rock anchors down there anyways...

You can take it as snarky if you wish, sorry if you did and lost interest in what I had to share. I was simply explaining in detail how it works and why it’s not be to confused with full hydro so others don’t get the wrong idea. Wouldn’t you defend and clarify why something is or is not the way...

That looks awesome

This post really isn’t worth much but maybe it’s of some entertainment of what’s going on in the shop and my head. Only 1 day off so that killed production but I’m armed with all the info needed to start whackin tube The subframe is gem shaped to cut weight and makes for equal length link...

Gotcha, the intent is valid but very poorly worded. Same seat/series/type/etc, adult whatever would be more appropriate I feel but like you said and since it’s poorly worded I agree that it’s also an opportunity for petty protest.