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Car and Driver entered an Aurora a few years back, and they swore it cost them $500 to purchase. The judges didn't agree, and they were merciless to the poor Olds--there were photos of judges and perhaps even other contestants taking a pick axe to it. :eek2:

This is a valid point. On one hand, a Crown Vic (especially an Interceptor) would be very durable... but there would be a number of fuel stops. Something smaller and lighter could go further between stops, but that's irrelevant if it can't handle the long-term abuse. As for structural...

From the official rulebook:

Indeed. For those who don't know, veteran 24HOL racers say you should expect to spend $3000-$5000 total to compete in your first event. This total would cover the $500 car, all the safety mods (which don't count against the car budget), entry fee, driver fees, and so on. On the plus side...

As any car guy knows, racing is an expensive hobby. As time passes, it seems to only get more and more expensive, relegating it to the sport of kings. What's an average Joe to do? Well, some guys got together a few years back and created a low-buck charity event known as the 24 Hours of...

https://www.accufabracing.com/fuel/regulators No, at least not the model I use. In my car's case, the fuel rail itself has a schrader valve right on it, which works well for (temporarily) mounting a gauge to dial in the regulator. Once it is dialed in, I almost never need to reattach the...

I always choose Accufab adjustable FPRs on my turbo Mopars, such as my former turbo Caravan. They are a high quality, attractive design that works very well. Depending on which injectors I was running, I would dial in a 'base' pressure of 30 or 55 psi. I know mine can go lower than 30 psi...

Okay, how about this: when I shared the above videos with a friend, he countered by telling me about lawn mower rock crawling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-xJzihhLg0 (I figure this is more in line with RME.)

The doctor is in.

This just might be the single most redneck thing I have ever seen. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7yCCcVJE54 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QU-KMsc45lM

I once owned an XD9000i and I loved it. I had thought about getting a new one, but for the same price I could get a 9.5cti instead. This would give me an updated design and bump me into the Ultimate Performance Series, so that's what I wanted. I priced it out back in October 2012; at that...

I'm sure your extra research paid off and you'll be happy with that winch.

As they say, you should get a winch rated for at least 1.5x your rig's actual weight. This would mean an 8000-lb winch should suffice. Having some extra capacity "in reserve" never hurts, though. Yes!! It is telling that Warn breaks down their winch lineup into three broad categories...

I decided to google this. Here is what I found (at http://mythbustersresults.com/episode62): Let us not forget: you can be killed even without any major body parts being severed.

That doesn't make me any more desirous to stand right next to the cable while the winch is under significant load, like the guys at the beginning of the video.

I would say it is safe to use safely as a recovery point. If you don't replicate anything in the above video, you'll probably be just fine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8lMxYnGIrw

When it comes to man verses gravity, I am betting on gravity. Every time.

Thanks for sharing these pictures, Marc.

No doubt. That looks like something we could construct on a trail. We'll have to keep that in mind for our next RME recovery operation. "Interior was just washed!"