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Did he buy Donnie's bike because that's exactly the bike Donnie had. Suzuki 125s are hard to do big bore kits on you have to send the cases out to be bored out because you can't fit a bigger piston through the bottom end. I did have a YZ125 with an Athena 144 kit on it and it was a little mini...

Anyways I think the tank turned out great. New plastics and graphics showed up today too!

Hahaha that's awesome. I think the guy had good intentions, but didn't know you need to stretch the cover... or That you need more than 3 staples per side when you put a new seat cover on. Besides the guy owned it since high school, his mom bought it for him in 2003!

While I wait for new plastics to arrive, I thought I'd take a shot a stripping the paint off the tank before I buy a second hand one.... It would appear this tank has actually been 3 colors: Green, Blue and White... You know after the actually color it was supposed to be: YELLOW! ....some...

First this seat cover that looks like a Sharpei. I fixed the upholstery while we watched a movie. Nothing like the bang of a staple gun to keep your wife from falling asleep like she does in every movie we watch... Haha Fixed

Let's try this again. Something here is wrong... Someone has actually painted this Suzuki green and done a meticulous job of disassembling it completely and painting the plastics quite well. But it's quite ugly, I feel it's my duty to bring this one back to life.

66-77 the "C"s we're welded on. Only 76 &77 had discs. but that doesn't matter if you want to just buy new aftermarket "C"s Another strategy guys use is they cut then end of the radius arm off. Then use 2.5 tube with a slit in it to sleeve over the end. You end up getting like 6" of weld on 4...

It's just some kid dancing around being weird. It's not that weird. Kids are weird. Tacoma might have to give up the title of Mr. Glass to Stephen.

You can cut the leaf spring perch off the center enough to weld the wedge. The tube is still pressed the same distance in the center section. I had a buddy who used an F250 Dana 44 under his WJ and that's what we did to link it.

Did you order it through me? If not you left money on the table. I think the problem is the tire rounds off really quickly so less biting edges and is got a really round profile so less lugs it wants to lean over and as soon as you lean over in that snotty clay -zip! you're tipped over. I...

This kit obviously isn't radius arms but you could piece it all together from ruffstuff. Although the stock rubber Ford stuff will ride smoother than all hiems. https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ruffstuff&Product_Code=3LINK-COILB&Category_Code=3LINK

I think 505. It's pretty awesome everywhere else. It's not amazing in deep sand and kinda sucks in mud... Or I suck in snot mud and it's fine.

I watched that video. Josh catches then laps me at 2:42:01. I flicked some mud on his GoPro, I'm proud I held him off for like 6 seconds instead of the average 2 second guy LOL. even Michael Knight had lots of problems in that mud pit. He crashed 3 times on one lap- twice in like 30 seconds.

Map 2 was where it's at in the slippery mud. Also I think I found a big limitation on the shinko sticky tire: mud - it's not that great.

Call a powdercoater they'll be happy to quote you. Funny I did a set of Smittybilt fenders that were flaking too. I guess they cheap out on powdercoat or poor prep. I sprayed mine with aircraft paint remover and went nuts with a wire wheel on a grinder. Then primed and Rust-Oleum Hammered...

F150 76 & 77 had welded on C's and disc brakes. Earlier are drum. 78 & 79 had cast C's as part of the axle tubes. After that is TTB. IMO you'd be better off buying aftermarket radius arms and Cs. Like Core or otherwise with a hiem. The stock style rubber bushings are not that great. I threw...

What axle gears does it have? Radius arm is a a pretty simple (relative to other forms of links) swap. My TJ uses radius arms and it has decent roll control even without a front sway bar.

3" at the very minimum for most motorsport regulating bodies.

The flat rates are too low a rate to do anything other than keep spring tension. Which you don't really need since you've got a 2" longer main than travel length. I mean you could certainly run like a triple rate setup but you'll have problems setting your preload with your already long springs...

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