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I just put 5.13's in the YJ, no 4 to 1, and it is loooow! Much more control. I don't think I need the 4 to 1 now. Auto's are great going up, but I am more afraid of going down so I will stick with manuals.

OK- I would like to work on the layout when I have a little spare time this weekend.(if I have any) Is the wording that is posted earlier in this post going to be the final wording? More importantly, what is the final size going to be? I'm thinking 2ftx 3ft. right? I have to work 12 hr...

I have the 1/8" here already, but if anyone has a donation thats great too.

No need to take it to Kinkos. Just send me the dimensions of the metal and the final wording and I will post a dimensionally correct version here for final approval. As far as how soon I can cut it- I can't get much done on it until after Labor day weekend, but I think I can promise it by the...

I like this one::D

Wow - you guys are hittin it! The reason that I originally suggested 1/8" for the lettering is because it will be easier to get all of the wording that everyone seems to want. It is just a matter of resolution. If we were just putting up Rattlesnake- Tread...

You're assuming an awful lot here.

Just and idea- I could cut the lettering out of a piece of 1/8" steel. ( I have a piece I will donate) This would be welded to a piece of 1/4 or 3/8"plate, painted white on one side. Weld it around the edges and throw in a couple of rossette welds away from the letters, let it rust and you have...

Hey Greg and RME guys, I talked to the boss and we would be happy to cut the signs for a good cause. The amount of lettering would be limited by the size of the sign, of course, and still be large enough to be read from the vehicle. KISS would apply here. I like the idea of shaping the top as...

I have a set of electric shears from my tinner days if you wanna drive out here again and get 'em. They cut well as long as you don't run into anything on the back side. (Seams, screwheads, etc.)

In a perfect world , yes. But it is usually not feasible, so just try and get the ends to move in the same arc when the suspension cycles.

Not quite true. Here is a shot of Pumkinbronc's EB. The radius arms are not wristed. It's all about the overall design. Your trac-bar should be as long as is physically possible and be paralell to your upper steering linkage such that they move in the same arc.

Looks great! Man, you must live close- I recognize those rocks-that's where I run my hounds!

Cedar City - May 23-26 or so. We are heading down. Going to try Wrecking Yard on Sat. Anyway, I haven't seen anything posted about it, and it is a great event that is loads o fun. You can still just show up and register when you get there. (It's a lot like Moab used to be)

Wow this is the first that I have heard of this problem. Half of gregs bill is probably my fault. I have always thought the more pics the better. Guess I know better now. The big problem I see with remote hosting is that half the time they don't work or they don't stay working and then you get...

OK -I wondered -I think I'll hold out for a open knuckle king pin style.

Just found this and it looks like a HD 44 to me. Am I right?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2404041361&category=33728

a Lock Right will keep you moving- you asked about a trac loc in your post-they are two different things.

Trac-loc= clutch packed limited slip, it won't keep you moving if one tire is in the air and after about 10,000 miles the clutches wear out and it's hard to tell the difference between the trac-loc and stock open diff. Save your money$$$ and get a locker.

Cool thanks for posting these!!