00 Jeep Wrangler suspension - What to get, where to go, how much to pay?

[Wrangler Guy]

What's going on? Found this site from stangnet and I just got a 00 Jeep Wrangler.

I want to have a suspension lift and larger tires. I am not sure how high, but nothing crazy. I want something that will do real well on the trails.

What kind of parts should I get and where should I go to have it installed? How much should I expect to pay for it.

00 Jeep Wrangler
Sahara
Black
Hard / Soft Top
4.0


I love the Jeep. It is nice to drive. I have gone to Porqupine Dam (I think), out on Pine View to go cliff jumping. We are going tomorrow if anyone wants to meet up there.

 

[Greg]

First off, welcome to RME!

You'll find plenty of options out there for your TJ, but I would suggest you layout a plan before you begin buying parts.


What are your future plans for your Jeep? (Wheelin' becomes an addiction just like Heroin, so plan wisely!)

How much are you looking to spend?? (Stick with 32" tires or smaller, unless you're willing to regear it. Regearing costs around $600-800 for both axles.)

Where do you want it to go?? (It's possiable to make it go anywhere, depending on the $$ you spend!)


You'll get tons of strong opinions by asking around. Do your research carefully and buy only what you need. Soon you'll fit in with the rest of the Wheelin' Junkies!

 

[Wrangler Guy]

I will plan. I learned that with my old mustang. That just got out of hand.

I am not planning on doing anything that will wreck the Jeep, just basic off roading.

Am I correct that, with a lift and larger tires I will need,

New Gears
New Speedo and Odometer stuff
Altering my driveshaft slightly

Thanks

 

[Greg]

I would say that 33" tires and a 4" lift of your choice should be the perfect combo to start out with. That should allow you good handling on the road and won't put too much stress on the factory drivetrain parts when you're wheelin.

Regear the Diff's with 4.56's and you'll be happy with the driveability, plus you can run larger tires when the 33's wear out. (You will want bigger tires eventually, trust me.)

TeraFlex is big on their products being capable offroad, yet maintaining a 'Road-friendly' feel.

 

[pokeyYJ]

You can fit 33's on a TJ with 2.5 inches of lift, the tires just rub a little bit. And with a 4.0 you can get away without regearing if you have 3.73's

 

[Wrangler Guy]

Right on.

That is the big thing for me, keeping it drivable. It is my daily driver. I now have two pracitcal cars, the Jeep and the 65 Mustang.

I was looking at the Jeeps around here and 4 inches seems like the norm around here.

I will do my shopping around.

What is a good ballpark number for the total package....

4 inch suspension lift
33 - 35 inch tires (can I use my same rims I have now?)
All other nit noid stuff and labor.

 

[pokeyYJ]

Check your PM's Wrangler Guy

 

[ShortShaft]

A 4" basic kit will be around $600,
for a full system (lower control arms) add another $400.
35" tires are about $150 ea. or more depending on mfg.
I would not run stock rims with 35s = backspacing.
Black rockcrawler wheels are about $35 a piece.

With a 4" kit you will need a short shaft kit = $300
New Driveshaft = $200

do all the labor yourself and you will save tons of $$ and learn about the Jeep you are about to drive = priceless.

total cost is about $2300

this is just an average, but realistic to what you are looking at.

If you go with a three inch and 33s you can leave off the Short shaft and new driveshaft. This still looks good and will get you through most trails around here with no problem.

Like greg said- you have to identify with what you are planning on doing with it, then build it to suit that style of driving.

call a shop like MEPCO for accurate prices. These are just figures off the top of my head so they may not be the best.

good luck.

 

[BlackSheep]

Originally posted by pokeyYJ
You can fit 33's on a TJ with 2.5 inches of lift, the tires just rub a little bit.

Don't know whose jeep you drove set up like that, but I have to disagree with you.

I went with 33's and 3.5" lift (kit said 4", but really it's only 3.5"), and I needed a body lift to help clear the tires. Even then, at full stuff, the tires still rub. Time for some longer stops.

And with a 4.0 you can get away without regearing if you have 3.73's

Again, I will disagree with you. I re-geared to 4.10s and 33s, and curse the day I made the decision to only go with 4.10s. I've seen guys run 33s with stock 3.73 gearing, but the highway performance simply sucks. However, if you have the standard (not the auto), maybe the 3.73s are OK. If you decide to go with a change of gearing, Listen to what Greg said, and go for at least the 4.56 gears. I would say strongly consider 4.88s, but at a min, go for the 4.56.


Whenever you make a change in rear end gearing, tire size or any combination, you simply have to go to the local Jeep dealership and order the correct speedo gear. They only cost about $10, so it is an easy and cheap way to counter the other driveline changes you have made.

Here's my disclaimer for the rest of my post: Make your decisions on what you purchase on the percentage of on-road to off-road driving you do. My rig seldom sees on-road driving. If you only plan on driving easy trails, gravel roads, etc. Maybe you can get away with cheap....However, also think ahead. After only one year, I'm in the process of putting together more lift with a longarm kit.

As far as lifts go, don't do what I did. I bought the cheapest 4" lift kit on the market. It works well, and some of the guys on this board have seen it work. I think they will say it works pretty well. However, you get what you pay for. I've learned a lot since I built this version of my rig. If you decide a short arm kit is what you want, look closely at the joints used in the control arms. Rubicon Express makes nice joints on their super flex kits, Johnnie Joints are excellent joints. Poly bushings work ok, but really put stress on your control arm mounts (just ask me, I broke one recently). Make sure the control arms are adjustable for pinion angle. This will help when it comes time to decide whether you are going to shell out for a SYE kit. Which I suggest for any lift over 2". T-case lowering kits are like band-aids.

I really suggest just going with a long arm kit, but again, base your decisions on what type of driving you plan on doing.

Good luck with your decisions, and let us know what you decide.

 

[sukaB]

I would suggest deciding what you think you would like and then come drive one.....
That'll make up your mind.....
You can take any of my friends up the street to dirt and flex it and drive it on the street and you'll be way impressed....

 

[2BIGTJ]

I had a 3" tera lift on my tj and I ran 33" tire with no problem come to think about it I loved that lift, I rubbed once i a while at full flex but not a big problem at all considering with the 3" you dont have to change drivlines control arms or anything like that, allyou have to do is lower the t-case put the springs in place,change shocks and go wheel, that lift flexed like crazy, if you want I can e-mail pictures to you of how it sat and flexed.
I think that if you are using it for a daily driver and a weekend offroader the 3"teraflex is the way to go for me and 33" tires. I was into my lift total with tire wheels and lift $1300

 

[pokeyYJ]

Originally posted by BlackSheep

Don't know whose jeep you drove set up like that, but I have to disagree with you.

Again, I will disagree with you. I re-geared to 4.10s and 33s, and curse the day I made the decision to only go with 4.10s. I've seen guys run 33s with stock 3.73 gearing, but the highway performance simply sucks. However, if you have the standard (not the auto), maybe the 3.73s are OK.

The Jeep was my dads (Toby) 2000 TJ. It had a 2.5 Rancho lift with 33 MT/R's. They just barely rubbed at full stuff.

My friend Ty, had a Tuff Country 2.5 with 33's BFG all-terrains, no rubbing what-so-ever.

Moabrat, ran a Teraflex 3" for a long time with 33's BFG Mudterrains, just a little rubbing, but I think it was because he was running a 10" rim.

The gears are not that bad with a standard, really. Put a throttle body spacer and flowmaster on it and your ready to go.

Ty's jeep had 3.07's on it for the longest time, and it was only really bad on the trail, around town that thing was QUICK!

 

[my4thjeep]

I run the tera 3" lift. I love it. I run 32" so that I can stuff more with out rubbing and it's not bad to drive with out a gear change. This is my 4th jeep that has been my daily driver. I commute to Sundance from Provo. I have had the lift a year with no problems at all. I also have the tera disconnects. I strongly recommend disconnects no matter what you do to your jeep well worth the money even with out a lift.

more pics here PM me if you want to come check it out.

 

[99 heep]

Go see SukaB the Jeep Doc. I just got my Jeep back from him this weekend I had a custom long lift done and 456 gears and locker, and 2 wheel low, new driveline, SYE. He dose great work and will save you alot of money.

 

[sukaB]

I love seeing smiles....
Welcome to the inner circle 99 heep..
Let's wheel

 

[Brett]

Originally posted by ShortShaft


call a shop like MEPCO for accurate prices. These are just figures off the top of my head so they may not be the best.

good luck.

ought oh......someones promoting the shop again

I'd still do the RE 5.5" long arm kit if I were you! Toss some 35's on it, a locker out back and some new gears and junk. Plenty of fun then!

 

[WJL]

RE long arm in any version. The 4.5" will fit 35s. I you go with the 5.5 plenty of room for 35s.
In the future you can add a 1" BL and go with 37s
RE long arm rides excellent and you can up-grade from 3.5 to 4.5 to 5.5 inches of lift and just buy springs.

Also look at the Jeeps in the featured vehicles and shop around get what works best for you.

 

[tweakeyjeep]

Originally posted by BlackSheep

Don't know whose jeep you drove set up like that, but I have to disagree with you.

I went with 33's and 3.5" lift (kit said 4", but really it's only 3.5"), and I needed a body lift to help clear the tires. Even then, at full stuff, the tires still rub. Time for some longer stops.



Again, I will disagree with you. I re-geared to 4.10s and 33s, and curse the day I made the decision to only go with 4.10s. I've seen guys run 33s with stock 3.73 gearing, but the highway performance simply sucks. However, if you have the standard (not the auto), maybe the 3.73s are OK. If you decide to go with a change of gearing, Listen to what Greg said, and go for at least the 4.56 gears. I would say strongly consider 4.88s, but at a min, go for the 4.56.


Whenever you make a change in rear end gearing, tire size or any combination, you simply have to go to the local Jeep dealership and order the correct speedo gear. They only cost about $10, so it is an easy and cheap way to counter the other driveline changes you have made.

Here's my disclaimer for the rest of my post: Make your decisions on what you purchase on the percentage of on-road to off-road driving you do. My rig seldom sees on-road driving. If you only plan on driving easy trails, gravel roads, etc. Maybe you can get away with cheap....However, also think ahead. After only one year, I'm in the process of putting together more lift with a longarm kit.

As far as lifts go, don't do what I did. I bought the cheapest 4" lift kit on the market. It works well, and some of the guys on this board have seen it work. I think they will say it works pretty well. However, you get what you pay for. I've learned a lot since I built this version of my rig. If you decide a short arm kit is what you want, look closely at the joints used in the control arms. Rubicon Express makes nice joints on their super flex kits, Johnnie Joints are excellent joints. Poly bushings work ok, but really put stress on your control arm mounts (just ask me, I broke one recently). Make sure the control arms are adjustable for pinion angle. This will help when it comes time to decide whether you are going to shell out for a SYE kit. Which I suggest for any lift over 2". T-case lowering kits are like band-aids.

I really suggest just going with a long arm kit, but again, base your decisions on what type of driving you plan on doing.

Good luck with your decisions, and let us know what you decide.

Sorry, but I need to disagree with you BlackSheep... Whoa this is a first one for me! I've always looked towards you for advice! When I first bought my Jeep (it's a YJ not TJ so a little different) it only had a 2.5 inch lift with 33's only rubbed at full stuff... Now with my 4" lift I only rub at full stuff because I removed the bump stops!

I have 3.53 gearing and my highway performance is awesome!!!! Going down to Moab I get about 15-17 MPG!!! That's better than stock I have the 4.0 and the AX-15 tranny a magnaflow catback exhaust and a K&N with modified airbox, but that shouldn't increase my performance That Much! The only problems I have is trying to crawl really slowly especially in Moab, burning out the clutch doing the 3 foot pedal dance!

Just my opinions.

 

[BlackSheep]

Originally posted by tweakeyjeep


Sorry, but I need to disagree with you BlackSheep... Whoa this is a first one for me! I've always looked towards you for advice! When I first bought my Jeep (it's a YJ not TJ so a little different) it only had a 2.5 inch lift with 33's only rubbed at full stuff... Now with my 4" lift I only rub at full stuff because I removed the bump stops!

OK, so my experience is different from several others as far as 33s and 3" lift. I now have tera 4" springs, and I still need to lengthen my bumpstops in order to clear the tires.

I have 3.53 gearing and my highway performance is awesome!!!! Going down to Moab I get about 15-17 MPG!!! That's better than stock I have the 4.0 and the AX-15 tranny a magnaflow catback exhaust and a K&N with modified airbox, but that shouldn't increase my performance That Much! The only problems I have is trying to crawl really slowly especially in Moab, burning out the clutch doing the 3 foot pedal dance!

Just my opinions.

ok, you have the standard. My statement pointed out that the standard may be ok. I don't know, cause I have the auto, and I'm not wild about the on-highway performance. Of course, I'm used to driving my truck which is great on the road.

 

[tweakeyjeep]

Well I'll bet that Wrangler Guy's TJ is more set up like Blacksheeps than mine. he has a different suspension type than I do so I'll trust Blacksheep's judgement on the lift...

I should read the posts better, guess I didn't see the part about the auto. I don't know a lot about autos and so that's why I stick with manuals!

Wrangler Guy, if you have the manual tranny than you do not need to regear it running 33's... It will work for ya just fine, but with the auto you will have some major gas bills and lack of power if ya don't.