1995ZJ's Crawler

Fastback ZJ - FOR SALE / Part Out

So, with the upcoming projects I have for this, I feel that it's finally worthy of having a build thread. Some of you know me, some don't, anyways my name is Tyler and I'm kind of a big deal :rofl:

So here is what I started out with, a completely stock 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Orvis edition.

Here is a list of it current mods:

Rock Krawler 6.5" rear springs up front
UpCountry front springs in rear
Crawler Ready 2" Coil Spring Spacers all around
Ballistic Fab coil spring perches add another 2.5"
Total lift right now is about 6.5"
39" Krawler Reds
Trail-Gear Creeper Locks (17x9 wheels)
Trail-Gear full hydraulic steering

D60 front w/ 35-spline outers
Detroit
5.38 Yukon gears
Warn Premium Locking hubs

Ford 9" rear w/ Moser 35-spline alloy shafts
Moser Spool
Yukon Nodular Case
5.33 Yukon gears
NP231 T-Case
Six States CV Driveshafts

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Video of Suicide Hill
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152194580107846&l=4272323364561136607
 
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1995zj

I'm addicted
Location
Herriman, UT
Trying to decide which HID's to go with since the old Hella's weren't cutting it anymore.

These....
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or these.....
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I have some just like the bottom in a 7" instead of the 4" too, but I'd have to cut into the lower signal and it might look like too much....
 

Lifelong Jeeper

Well-Known Member
Location
Murray
Back it up and take the pics. They're kind of close to get a good grasp of it.

How much would you have to knotch the signals to fit the 7"?

I like the round better.

I think it would look cool to move the 4" in to the grille (knotch it if necessary) and put two sets of 4" in there. To see what it would look like, put both of those on one side and post a pic. (Or if that's too much overkill, in place of two sets of HID, put an ordinary Hella or other 4" lamp in and a set of HID. Kind of like a High-Low beam with a super-high beam.)
 

1995zj

I'm addicted
Location
Herriman, UT
New look
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Here's what I've been working on for the past couple weeks. My crossmember and skid had seen some better days, so I decided to finally make some new ones.

Stock crossmember and skid (beat to shit)
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All done and skid mounted
217054_511079383970_330900191_271629_1703258_n.jpg


21.75" belly height (21.25" at center where it wasn't as bent)
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Teraflex Automatic Trans seal extension installed
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Making room
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I love Utah.........not
206463_511079364010_330900191_271627_2159836_n.jpg


New crossmember and rails
216070_511079373990_330900191_271628_7958203_n.jpg


New belly height all the way across (22.5")
208451_511079398940_330900191_271630_6852386_n.jpg


24" at the back
217346_511079408920_330900191_271631_469695_n.jpg


MMMMM smooooth
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UHMW should show up in the next week or so. Going with a 1/2" thick sheet for the bottom.
 

RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
sweet. isn't your jeep almost technically a buggy anyway? ok not really, but you definitely have taken it places most grands would never dream of venturing.
 

1995zj

I'm addicted
Location
Herriman, UT
So EJS was fun, but I busted the rear driveshaft yoke at the axle end. The u-joint let go then took the yoke with it. I'm only running 1310 joints in every joint including my CV joints. The only one that is 1350 is the front D60 axle end. I knew the joints were the weak-link, however I was hoping they'd last longer. I guess taking a really hard bounce on Rock Pile in a 6000# + rig on 39" reds thought otherwise.

My question to you guys is what should I upgrade to? I was thinking 1410 or 1450, because that should keep them from breaking, but then my weak-link moves to what.....my 231 t-case. I think I'd rather bust a driveshaft joint than my t-case. Is 1350 sufficient or should I do 1410? I at least want it to hold up better than it did.

Obviously an Atlas would be nice...but don't have the cash for that right now.
 
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