4runner Build

What should i do?

  • Keep my mini truck axle and build it up

    Votes: 18 69.2%
  • Sell the mini truck axle and get one out of a FJ62

    Votes: 8 30.8%

  • Total voters
    26

iamsparticus

Take your Rig to the Edge
Location
Ogden,Ut
more
 

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iamsparticus

Take your Rig to the Edge
Location
Ogden,Ut
New front drive shaft

Well I finally did it i replaced my front drive shaft so i don't have to deal with it coming out every time i break on a steep incline or im fully articulated it will be a huge relief for me when doing obstacles, it's never actually kept me from doing a obstacle but it has made me climb under to fix it multiple times on a hard obstacle:mad:.
I went with a Square drive shaft becasue i could make it and it only cost me 15 bucks to build at the shop:).
I simply ground teh yokes down flat, made them level in the vice and the set that side on and made the tube center and level and welded. Had it up to 40mph with no shakes or rumbles:D:D:D
 

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iamsparticus

Take your Rig to the Edge
Location
Ogden,Ut
hey does anyone know the distance from the front of 85 or so toyota rear leafs to center pin? Mine are covered in ice and snow and i need to find out becaue i have trail gear springs to put on that are 22 from the center pin to front mount hole, im going to move the axle 1.5 inches forward so any help would be appricated
 

Marsh99

Lover of all things Toyota
Location
Mantua UT
79-85 Toyota front
Flat length = 45"
Front Half = 22.5"
Rear Half = 22.5"
Width = 2.36"
Front Eyelet = 18mm ID
Rear Eyelet = 18mm ID


79-83 Toyota Rear
Flat length = 48"
Front Half = 21.125"
Rear Half = 26.875"
Width = 2.36"
Front Eyelet = 18mm ID
Rear Eyelet = 18mm ID


84-88 Toyota Rear
Flat length = 48"
Front Half = 20.5"
Rear Half = 27.5"
Width = 2.36"
Front Eyelet = 14mm ID
Rear Eyelet = 18mm ID


89-95 Toyota Rear
Flat length = 51"
Front Half = 21.5"
Rear Half = 29.5"
Width = 2.36"
Front Eyelet = 14mm ID
Rear Eyelet = 18mm ID

hope that helps
 

iamsparticus

Take your Rig to the Edge
Location
Ogden,Ut
In the future

Here is a list of the rest of the mods i plan on getting done before EJS:)
1. Make and put on rock sliders

2. Make a custom skid plate out of a extra cross member and 1/4 inch steel plate, should give me almost a inch more clearance

3. make a long arm three link rear with adjustable links and panhard bar.

4.swap in new leaves in front and move axle forward 1 inch, via redrill trail gear leafs i have.

5.New 35's or 36's and replace rear wheels

I hope to finish this all by april next year but as of now progress has been slow since all my money has been sucked else where but i did finally get my new front drive shaft built so that is incourageing:greg:
 
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Panos

12Volt Specialist
Location
Salt lake City
ok #4.. dont do all that work for only 1 inch. you can simply drill out your spring perch hole 1 inch forward and relocate the axle. just make sure you dont get into your steering. cheap and easy.

your welding looks like it has improved, or you got a better welder. I am talking about the work on the front D shaft. good job.

also I voted build a 62 axle, 9.5 ring gear is bad ass! get some longs and six shooter knuckles and that would be a pretty cool axle.

I think you should just take the sway bar off completely man.
 

iamsparticus

Take your Rig to the Edge
Location
Ogden,Ut
ok #4.. dont do all that work for only 1 inch. you can simply drill out your spring perch hole 1 inch forward and relocate the axle. just make sure you dont get into your steering. cheap and easy.

your welding looks like it has improved, or you got a better welder. I am talking about the work on the front D shaft. good job.

also I voted build a 62 axle, 9.5 ring gear is bad ass! get some longs and six shooter knuckles and that would be a pretty cool axle.

I think you should just take the sway bar off completely man.


well i think your right i will just leave the mounts and drill the hole i really am going for not hitting the oil pan and a little more lift, the springs i have now settled a little to much

Both on the welding, i have welded so much since this year it's not even funny and i was using a 205 lincoln welder, thanks on the compliment

I too am debating the FJ 62 axle they are very stout axles and i wish i would of thought of them when i did my SAS, they are the same width as a IFS rear axle and much stronger than a stock mini axle, but we will see what pans out if i sell the front axle the 4runner will be down for a bit to swap it in, the good thing is all i have to do to swap it cut and turn the perches for spring over

as for the sway bar i had to have one for saftey, but im taking a class to get certified to do saftey so ill know if it was crap that i had to have one or not:greg:
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Keep in mind an FJ62 axle won't gain you any strength where you need it, in the birfields. They use the same ones as a mini, so even though your R+P are stronger, your weak link is still the exact same as it is now.
 

iamsparticus

Take your Rig to the Edge
Location
Ogden,Ut
Oh i know carl what i really want is the stronger R&P and axle housing, as well as same width as my rear axle, either axle i need stronger birfields, but so far i have not broke any birfs, not saying im not going to but so far so good.

Right now my front axle is rocking a 4 cyl third, stock shafts and stock truss on the driver side of housing, it has high steer, upgraded vented land cruiser discs, and the V6 calipers, as well as fresh bearings, seals and a wiper kit

that said i might do the swap in the spring or late winter
 

Marsh99

Lover of all things Toyota
Location
Mantua UT
If I were you I would get a hp v6 third put a locker in it while your there, beef up your axle: truss gusset, knuckle gusset, Diff Armor, do the 5th stud mod that longfield sells, chromo shafts and birfs, and wheel spacers to get your width cheap easy and you could do it in a day.
 

iamsparticus

Take your Rig to the Edge
Location
Ogden,Ut
If I were you I would get a hp v6 third put a locker in it while your there, beef up your axle: truss gusset, knuckle gusset, Diff Armor, do the 5th stud mod that longfield sells, chromo shafts and birfs, and wheel spacers to get your width cheap easy and you could do it in a day.


I don't need wheel spacers brandon teh axle is the same width as my current IFS axle

As for all the beefing up and gusseting yes i plan it, my wife is done with school this summer so that will free up some funds and hopfully she gets a good job and i have lots of extra funds but we will see how it goes.
:-\
Whats the 5th stud mod?:confused:
 

iamsparticus

Take your Rig to the Edge
Location
Ogden,Ut
Sorry i didnt explain if i use the FJ62 axle it will be the same width not the mini, but if i keep the mini i will throw longs and gussets on and the 5th stud mod looks cool and home grown i might add that too
steve had a transfer case i wanted i might get that and do a transfer case swap first i would love lower 4lo
 

iamsparticus

Take your Rig to the Edge
Location
Ogden,Ut
Good idea chevycrew but a HP 60 is way harder to find and i really prefer toyota axles i think the design is better and Birfields are stronger at full turn than a u joint
 

SUPERFLY

CaptainRob
Location
sugar house
Good idea chevycrew but a HP 60 is way harder to find and i really prefer toyota axles i think the design is better and Birfields are stronger at full turn than a u joint

What Carl said... Don't get me wrong, I love the toy axle I've bashed them for years but you can spend a lot of money trying to get it as strong as a 60(been there. Still Isnt as strong) but you really can't touch a 60 no matter what. That being said my 4runner has a toy axle and will remain a toy axle
 
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