6.0 powerstroke rebuild.

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
Swapped in a good ficm tonight and still jo sync. So it's wire loom checking next. Down to the last possible source. Now to find the bad spot in the bad wire.

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glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
Poor Chad and Derek. You guys are in the same boat. That's rough.
Luckily I have a little background in electronics:D

Went out tonight and started checking the harness for opens/shorts. I checked the cam and crank output from the PCM to the input of the FICM. Both are reading 5 ohms. That sucks. It means that I am may have a short somewhere dragging the power down on that pin. Now I have to ohm out every pin in the cables. Good thing there is only 40 wires in each plug. Every time I think I understand this problem and I have a path forward I come up empty handed. Ty from Twisted who built the motor is going to come by this weekend with his IDS scan tool and see if he can find something I am missing. He has been super helpful in spite of me doing this on my own instead of paying him. I highly recommend him.

My last guess after verifying every component is either a short or the timing is off. I'm not sure which I would prefer to be the root cause, either way it will end of being the least preferable one.
 

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
Ty came over and ran digs with his IDS. It is reading a cam sensor fault. I have already replaced the cam sensor and verified the harness and the signal from the cam. This is the issue I have read multiple threads on. Other components in the loop can cause faults. So as a last resort I replaced the crank sensor last night. Still no luck. I'll be replacing the engine wire harness today. If that doesn't get it started, it has to be crank cam timing. If that is the case I might cry, engine will have to. Come back out.
 

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
Harness is out. I checked the tone ring on the crank with a bore scope and it looks good. Not bent and does not spin independently of the crank. Small victory. Maybe.
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sawtooth4x4

Totally Awesome
I have got to say even Land Rover didn't build as piss-poor of a wiring harness as Ford did on these trucks. Completely garbage. I had to fix mine in places because it had chaffed on parts in the engine bay. How freaking stupid were the engineers on these trucks. The tape and protection on these harnesses is garbage. The plug-ins were also total garbage. Especially when you have to take the damn thing apart 4 times a year to replace injectors.

Ok, rant over.
 

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
I think I might have found the root cause. The CKP/CMP sensors are magnetic reluctance sensors. They produce an A/C voltage when metal is passed through the magnetic field they produce. Because of this they are shielded in the harness to prevent induced voltage. The also have a ground wire wrapped inside the shielding. That ground wire is grounded through the PCM. So when I was unplugging the connector at the PCM I was removing the ground so the signal looked good. If I plug it into the PCM and crank (which I can't do now due to multiple components being removed at the moment) I think I would find that the ground is either floating or one of the signals is shorted to ground. I could have taken an Oscilloscope to both wires and checked the signal but if it's bad I'd need a new harness so I just skipped to the new harness. At least I have a possible cause now.
 

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
THIS is exactly why I don't dare buy a 6.0/6.4L truck. The truck the engine is in is great. The engine and such..... NO THANKS
Prior to a few months ago, I would have argued that they have well defined problems that can be addressed. I'm starting to rethink that theory. I still don't think they are that bad, I am thinking mine was just timed wrong by the machine shop, but who knows.

I do know that I am to blame for the bottom end damage to this one. I knew it was not right but misdiagnosed it as the infamous head gasket when it was an injector washing the cylinder and the oil. If I had stopped once I noticed it smoking, it would have likely been a single injector replacement for under $300. But, I didn't drive it for weeks like that, just 150 miles which seems pretty mild and likely to happen at night when a person would not see the smoking exhaust, so it isn't a totally unlikely failure.

6.0's are likely the most problematic of the big 3 but also the cheapest to purchase by about $5k in my experience. I am under $10k into this project with a pretty much brand new blue printed/ balanced/studdred and O-ringed motor, and a few non essential things like exhaust, updated mirrors and some other items I added since I was throwing money at it. Still not too bad a deal, IF the M(&#(*^#^*($#$ thing ever starts.
 
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