Any Mtn Bikers on RME?

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Not to be a gear snob, but this is your dome we're talking about. I wouldn't trust an offbrand helmet to do it's job.

What kind of riding are you looking at? If it's mostly shuttled downhill and lifts at the parks, you ought to stick with full face and goggles. If you're going to be earning your elevation like a proper man, probably a half-shell that covers the lower back of your head, and impact-rated sunglasses. There's a lot of tech that goes into helmets and I don't pretend to understand all of it and I'm sure about 75% of it marketing hogwash, but the MIPS system seems to come highly recommended. I use a Giro Montaro MIPS that fits me all right and breathes pretty well.

POC, Troy Lee, Giro, Fox, Bell, Smith, Scott, Kali, lots of companies with what I would consider decent entry level lids for under $75. Check out what's on sale at Backcountry.com, then go into their store/warehouse in WVC and try stuff on until you find one that feels good.
 
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benjy

Rarely wrenches
Supporting Member
Location
Moab
I loved my Smith forefront, but when I lost it I couldn’t justify the $230. I went with a $55 Giro from a bike shop and haven’t regretted it.
 

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
So I have ordered a Gyro fixture with MIPS.

Do you guys wear padded shorts to ride? I never have.. but now that I am older, maybe it would be nicer on my behind.

I absolutely wear a chamois, because I am older, and it is nicer on my behind. Not for scooting around the neighborhood or short trail rides, but absolutely on anything where I'm going to be in the saddle for more than an hour.

I buy padded liners and wear them under whatever shorts are comfy.
 

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
I don't know everyone here very well, but I can assure you that @Tacoma needs padded shorts. For several reasons.
I prefer the padded shorts, Tacoma doesn't. Because of normal wear and tear


I used to be all hardcore and anti-everything, but some nice padded shorts make a long day's ride a LOT more comfortable, especially if you, like I do, have a uh..."few" extra pounds pressing your bones into the seat these days. :(

I have a couple pairs of Zoics, they were on sale for like $50 and paying more would have made me feel like I was paying a lot for something dumb BAHAHAHAH
 

rholbrook

Well-Known Member
Location
Kaysville, Ut
I have a 2017 Norco Range C9.2 Medium Frame with 29" wheels. It was my sons and he just left on a mission to Scottland/Ireland for a few years (hopefully). He has worked at Biker's Edge for the last year or so in the service department so it has been maintained pretty good. It actually has a fresh bottom bracket, what ever that means. The front tire is pretty new and I will put a matching rear tire on it.

$2,700 for RME members. Come check it out. The bike does not come with the Trust Shout at this price but if you add $1,000 you can have it. Harrison rode for Trust this last year and was in a ton of their promotional literature.
 

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benjy

Rarely wrenches
Supporting Member
Location
Moab
I’m certainly not an “enduro-bro” and I don’t even hate wearing a backpack. However, my backpack is rarely ready to go since I also use it for a family day hike pack. Since I’ve been leaving it behind a lot lately, I decided it was time to tool up my bike.

I’m definitely a late adopter of the Oneup EDC, but this is a cool product! However, with the steerer tube mount there is no CO2 inflator. The smallest inflator I could find was the CrankBros version, but it was a lot bigger than it looked, so I had to remove the plastic shell. After removing that, it now fits like a glove inside the granite designs tire plug kit with the reamer and took removed making it an empty capsule. I’m pretty happy with this setup. I’ll definitely carry my pack on longer rides still.
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Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
I'm definitely not an endurobro, but I definitely prefer riding without a backpack. I didn't like my EDC, the chain tool kinda sucked. I might try the WolfTooth version. Right now I just have a small frame bag I stuff everything in, and a strap a spare tube to the frame.

I do like my Granite Stash plug kit tho.
 

benjy

Rarely wrenches
Supporting Member
Location
Moab
Yeah, seems like both the chain tool and the master link plier wouldn't be fun to use, but honestly I've never had to use a chain breaker or even a master link on the trail
 

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Yeah, seems like both the chain tool and the master link plier wouldn't be fun to use, but honestly I've never had to use a chain breaker or even a master link on the trail

I have. I probably break more chains than most guys though, I mash a lot.

So I'd heard that CC was a nuthouse right now, but a friend dragged me up this morning and it was refreshingly clear of traffic. Apparently weekday mornings are the time to hit it. The dirt's in great shape too, just barely damp, very zippy.

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benjy

Rarely wrenches
Supporting Member
Location
Moab
I have. I probably break more chains than most guys though, I mash a lot.


You're so strong that you broke your chain: That's a hard no. Your chain didn't break because you're really strong, even if you actually are. Wipperman, a European chain manufacturer, did a test of 10-speed chains back in 2007 and the results might be surprising to some: The tensile strength - the force required to simply pull a chain apart - ranged from 9,100N up to 10,800N. That's 2,045lb to over 2,400lbs, or approximately one Toyota Yaris hanging from a chain. That's a freakin' car. So, why do chains break? The most common reason for a broken chain: Shifting while you’re putting down all those ponies you have, which can twist the chain or see the cog teeth pry an outer plate off of the pin. But sometimes it’s just bad luck, too.
 

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater

You're so strong that you broke your chain: That's a hard no. Your chain didn't break because you're really strong, even if you actually are. Wipperman, a European chain manufacturer, did a test of 10-speed chains back in 2007 and the results might be surprising to some: The tensile strength - the force required to simply pull a chain apart - ranged from 9,100N up to 10,800N. That's 2,045lb to over 2,400lbs, or approximately one Toyota Yaris hanging from a chain. That's a freakin' car. So, why do chains break? The most common reason for a broken chain: Shifting while you’re putting down all those ponies you have, which can twist the chain or see the cog teeth pry an outer plate off of the pin. But sometimes it’s just bad luck, too.

That's interesting stuff, thanks for the link. I weigh 300ish, running a 32 tooth oval that's supposed to be 33 in the power band, with an 11 tooth small sprocket in back. That's a 3x multiplier according to bikecalc.com. Factor in dynamic loading and other variables like chain wear and non-ideal chain lines and maybe minor manufacturing defects and such reducing the chain strength, and you don't think it's plausible that I'd break more chains than most others?

Maybe not, I don't know. I am pretty good at timing my shifts, maybe I'm just unlucky or buy crappy chains or something. I've definitely broken chains and quicklinks just pedaling, no shifting involved. A brand new chain and brand new quicklink, once.
 

Corban_White

Well-Known Member
Location
Payson, AZ
Small sprocket size doesn't matter - or any rear sprocket for that matter - when calculating chain load. Simply the ratio between crank arm length and chainring radius, which in your case (assuming 175mm crank arm) ends up at ~2.7. so the chain sees ~2.7 times the force you input. Assuming no loss of traction at the rear tire. So 300# standing on the crank arm = 810# on the chain. Can you get up to 2,000# dynamically? Probably. Can your tire handle that much torque without slipping? Not likely even on slickrock, almost certainly not on dirt.

Just for fun, 810# on the chain, 11 tooth in the rear and 27.5 tires gives ~49 lb/ft where the tire contacts the ground. 42 tooth in the rear gives ~183 lb/ft at the ground. With an 1150mm wheelbase (3.8 feet) and assuming perfect traction that means on level ground in the 11t, more than 13# on the front axle is required to prevent a wheelie. In the 42t more than 48# will be required to keep the front tire down. On a hill the effective wheelbase gets shorter so the weight required on the front will go up. For example, on a 45° slope the effective wheelbase will decrease by a factor of 30% so the front will need 30% more weight to stay down.

Some anecdotal information, almost every time I ride slickrock I break one of the pawls in my freehub (3 so far) and/or a rear spoke (4 so far). What's interesting is all 4 spokes have been under brake tension. The pawls break in the transition from coasting to smashing the pedals to try and make the next crazy climb. I've never broken a chain.
 

jsudar

Well-Known Member
Location
Cedar Hills
Found this Kingsbridge dishing tool on eBay. It was just the raw casting so I had to do a bunch of filing and machine work (on my new mill :) to get it usable. Bought a brass knob and some .120 x 3/4 stainless tube from McMaster Carr and now I have a fully functional wheel dishing tool for more $$$ than a mid grade Park tool would have cost me. Plus four hours of my time. But somehow... it seems cooler.

My 14 year old son got a full ride scholarship to the Sudar School of Wheel Building, so he's learing some useful skills in the garage while real school is in pandemic mode. We will be using this tool tonight.

He also got a scholarship to the Sudar School of Bicycle Frame Building, so he should be cranking out a frame in the next couple months. Every time we get the geometry and fit nailed down, he grows again, which is making it difficult.
 

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Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Every time we get the geometry and fit nailed down, he grows again, which is making it difficult.

I've heard that if you stop feeding them this is less of a problem. I tried it and my boy started making some really terrible noises so I don't know if it works.
 
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