• RME Gear & Apparel

Ben and Kami’s TJ Overhaul

benjy

benjy

Rarely wrenches
Supporting Member
Location
Moab
Time for a few quick updates :)

I decided to first tackle the rest of the rear suspension. I built a brace with some simple notches and a bend (with the new notch master and model 32) between the B and C pillars, and tacked everything in with some Genright brackets.

dscn2623m.jpg


I also tacked in the bumps, and made an unfortunate discovery, I'm may have to sink the bump cans into the frame a half inch or so. It's so close, but I really can't move the CO further out :-\ The spring barely touches the bump can bolt at full droop

dscn2626s.jpg


I did the passenger side first which took me a few evenings. The driver's side went much faster. I finished most of it this evening. The most difficult part was making sure the hole was symmetrical with the other side. I think it turned out fairly well. This was before the hole was finished off.

dscn2625n.jpg


At one point last week when I was waiting on the CO brackets from Genright, I decided to do a little work on the front end. I started the grill hoop and highline the hood. The radiator, headlights, grill, and tube fenders will all mount to this hoop.

dscn2634w.jpg


The grill fits fairly naturally (and snug) in there:

dscn2635s.jpg


jevyguy said:
Putting in 30 hours a week you will be done in no time.
You have my number as well
Click to expand...

Thanks Garrick.

edit: I hate photobucket :mad2:
 
Last edited:
Lifelong Jeeper

Lifelong Jeeper

Well-Known Member
Location
Murray
benjy said:
Time for a few quick updates :)

http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/2630/dscn2623m.jpg[
I also tacked in the bumps, and made an unfortunate discovery, I'm may have to sink the bump cans into the frame a half inch or so. It's so close, but I really can't move the CO further out :-\ The spring barely touches the bump can bolt at full droop

[IMG]http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/8859/dscn2626s.jpg
Click to expand...

Couldn't you just rotate the bump can clockwise 1/4 to 1/3 turn and call it good? The bolt would clear the spring at that point.
 
benjy

benjy

Rarely wrenches
Supporting Member
Location
Moab
Lifelong Jeeper said:
Couldn't you just rotate the bump can clockwise 1/4 to 1/3 turn and call it good? The bolt would clear the spring at that point.
Click to expand...

That might work! It would reduce the surface area where I could mount the "wings" bracing the can to the frame. I'll try that tonight :)
 
waynehartwig

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
benjy said:
That might work! It would reduce the surface area where I could mount the "wings" bracing the can to the frame. I'll try that tonight :)
Click to expand...

Just make sure you can still get the bolt out ;) Or feed the bolt in reverse, with the nut on the other side.. I know, obvious, but that's why I said it :D
 
benjy

benjy

Rarely wrenches
Supporting Member
Location
Moab
benjy

benjy

Rarely wrenches
Supporting Member
Location
Moab
Made some shock hoops for the front end last night. Any feedback is appreciated :D

I turned the bump cans in the rear about 45* and everything clears beautifully now :)

dscn2638r.jpg


dscn2641.jpg


dscn2642e.jpg
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
What are the plans for bracing the shock hoops? (before I get too crazy with my feedback ;) )
 
Kiel

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
I hope you plan to tie them into the grille hoop and possibly the tube fender also
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
The brace between them is the most important, to keep them from flexing side to side and tearing off the frame. I'd add some gussets at the bottom too though, just for more welded area between that tube and the frame.
 
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