Best TJ Long Arm kit?

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Awesome! You should have gone! It was a lonnnngggggggg drive though. Road wasn't all that good after we left the main roads. We went through Kane Creek, Devils Racetrack, Fix it pass, and back down north coal wash. We saw the dinosaur foot print, swinging bridge, Dutchmens arch, golden gate, swaseys arch, Chimney rock, devils monument, joe and his dog, and lots of other stuff! After we finished up there, it was still fairly early, so we went up the mountain dew trail ontop of cedar mountain. Then we went out to the Carbon County Fairgrounds, played around in the rock garden and RTI ramp. I almost made it completely through the rock garden and got to a point that I couldnt' go any further without stacking rocks, or rolling my rig, so I bailed out of it. I was already off camber and if I continued my tire would have dropped into about a 30" hole.
 

pkrfctr

Registered User
Location
Spanish Fork, UT
wayne,
there are huge differences between the re and nth kits!! I am running one of the very first prototype ones. the production one is nothing like mine. The nth arms are sweet!! the rear arms are bent for greater clearence. Also the joints are a new patented design. The nth kit handles better then stock on road and is tons better then the re kit offroad. The nth kit also has the rear stinger which enable you to move your lower arms up 1 5/8".(makes a huge difference when you're stretched) I have been doing nths quality and durability testing for a few years now, they are top notch products. thier website has all the info on the new kits.
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
what makes the nth kit worth more than $1000 more than the RE kit? For nearly $4k for that kit you are getting into (or above) a custom kit with coilovers, etc. For the buck it really seems the RE kit is a pretty good deal. Especially when you can get it well below retail, making the nth kit just about double the RE kit...
 

wipedawg

Registered User
Location
UTAH
nth degrees kit is more expensive because there isn't another one like it. If you play in big rocks.... the nth degree kit will give you a LOT more clearance than the RE arms, and you wont get hung up as much. It also comes with a tummy tuck which also gives tons of clearance.
 

Ohms

'Poser Wheeler
One kit that hasn't been mentioned is the Fab Tech long arm kit. I have one hanging on the wall right now if anyone wants to come look at it for comparisons. This is one well thought out assembly and it even comes with a new rear driveline. It is extemely well thought out and executed and with the DL it runs around $2800.
 

lenny

formerly known as PokeyYJ
Location
Bountiful, UT
The only thing that I dont like about the RE kit is the radius arm design, it seems like the D30 wouldn't hold upo that well to the twisting force of the radius arm design.

I know that I will get flamed for this, but Brandon sells his long-arm kit for 1500 bucks, similar in design to the Tera one, but his arms are longer and better quality IMO, plus you can get them with Jonny Joints. That is the kit that I will be putting on my TJ
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
pkrfctr said:
wayne,
there are huge differences between the re and nth kits!! I am running one of the very first prototype ones. the production one is nothing like mine. The nth arms are sweet!! the rear arms are bent for greater clearence. Also the joints are a new patented design. The nth kit handles better then stock on road and is tons better then the re kit offroad. The nth kit also has the rear stinger which enable you to move your lower arms up 1 5/8".(makes a huge difference when you're stretched) I have been doing nths quality and durability testing for a few years now, they are top notch products. thier website has all the info on the new kits.

I couldn't tell.. I didn't crawl around your rig enough to notice. I was in a HUGE hurry! I knew I wasn't going to make it back home in time, so I was trying to lessen the anger! lol

What joints are you talking about, their Gyro Joint? Is that the one that they use a 2.5" trailer ball?

Bent arms or straight, there are arguments on both sides for which is better... Straight arms can be used as sliders. Bent arms don't contact the rocks as soon. Which is better? I think it's preference...

As for which is better off road, dunno there either.... The Nth Degree kit has a wicked unload on rocks. Badger pointed that out when you were trying to get up Waynes World. I could also say I made it up Waynes World without ANY troubles, or spinning a tire, when you didn't. In all fairness WW is all about the line. If you aren't on it, you aren't making it. It just doesn't matter how much you try.

I don't have any experience with Nth Degree stuff. I'm a dealer, I can sell it, but I don't. So you can't say I have a preference because I can/can't sell the item. I've looked at their (Nth's) and I think most of it is cheasy and hodge podged together....a bunch of widgets to make a kit. I've never seen anyone use so many muffler clamps on a $4,000 kit before! And to top it off, spacers?! I dunno.. I'll take a RE kit over a Nth anyday. Until I see more Nth's on the trail that I can look at and see perform, I have to stay that way. RE has proven itself over, and over, and over again on more rigs than just mine. Their quality, engineering, support, warranty, etc. It's at least one of the best in the industry.

Don't think I'm bagging on your rig, I'm not. You have an awesome Rubicon!!!!! And anyone that see's it would think the same.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
wipedawg said:
nth degrees kit is more expensive because there isn't another one like it. If you play in big rocks.... the nth degree kit will give you a LOT more clearance than the RE arms, and you wont get hung up as much. It also comes with a tummy tuck which also gives tons of clearance.

How far below the frame rails does the Nth hang? pkrfctr said it's about .5" less than RE's. That isn't tons.... Tons is going from the stock road grader, to the tummy tucker or RE's crossmember. I think either one will get you at least 2" more clearance. That's a ton!

Also, what do you do if you need to work on your transfer case? You have to pull out your entire suspension because the TT is one piece and the control arms and stinger bolts to it. RE you don't. Theirs is a three piece design, so you simply drop the center section, which in turn drops the transfer case.

I also play in big rocks. I've yet to get hung up on my control arms. I still think this is all preference... Bent or straight, use them as sliders or not.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
lenny said:
The only thing that I dont like about the RE kit is the radius arm design, it seems like the D30 wouldn't hold upo that well to the twisting force of the radius arm design.

I know that I will get flamed for this, but Brandon sells his long-arm kit for 1500 bucks, similar in design to the Tera one, but his arms are longer and better quality IMO, plus you can get them with Jonny Joints. That is the kit that I will be putting on my TJ

You lost me there, Teraflex kits are junk. At first I was thinking 'who is brandon'....

What are the arms made out of that make the higher quality than RE's? Are they 2"x 3/16 wall DOM? RE's are 2"x 1/4 wall - ChroMo. CM is MUCH strongre than DOM is!! ...And they use Johnny Joints too...
 

jfonze

Registered User
Supergper said:
So you say the RE kit is really expensive, whats the price tag on the RK kit? You would use the triangulated RK setup for the rear, would you use their front components as well? What does this kit include? I like the fact that the RE kit has an all new 100% flat belly skid, does the RK kit include that? Thanks


I'm not sure if this has been answered yet but RK's 5.5" kit runs about $1800 full retail. the 4" runs $1550 You could probobly get away with the 4" and a 1" body.

The other cool thing is RK just upgraded there suspension joints to make them easyer to rebuild.

The kit doesn't come with a flat belly skid but the at the same time the weld-in long arm mounts only push skid down .25 inches. they do have a replacement belly skid thats not included that gives anywhere from 1 inch to 2" of extra clearance depending on if you have a Rubicon or not.

I've been runing ther 5.5" kit for a wile now and it works good. I recomend the weld in rear cradle and limiter straps for the front.
 
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Johnny4X4

Active Member
i have the 5.5 RK kit, with the weld in cradle. I like it. I think i am gonna add the limit straps too.

I got the 5.5, and the Super Steering upgrade All installed, and still came in under the cost of just the RE kit and install.

i am going to get the belly skid next, and it will still probably be less overall. :p
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
Johnny4X4 said:
i have the 5.5 RK kit, with the weld in cradle. I like it. I think i am gonna add the limit straps too.

I got the 5.5, and the Super Steering upgrade All installed, and still came in under the cost of just the RE kit and install.

i am going to get the belly skid next, and it will still probably be less overall. :p


based on the prices above the RE kit is cheaper...especially for what you get in it.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
I think it is... (cheaper) and better too.... I wish I could throw out pricing here in the forum, but I would get into BIG trouble and lose my dealership (MAP pricing rules). But I will tell you this, if I were to sell a RELA kit at retail, I would have enough profit to buy a 9.5ti winch at retail. You do the math! To even come close to Nth's cost, I could sell you the RELA kit at retail, their monotube shocks at retail, Tom Woods HD SYE and CV kit at retail and still be less than the Nth degree cost...What else would you need? Oh, and their new tri link kit at retail. What's that, about $3500 total and you would have a bad a$$ed rig!?
 

lenny

formerly known as PokeyYJ
Location
Bountiful, UT
waynehartwig said:
You lost me there, Teraflex kits are junk. At first I was thinking 'who is brandon'....

What are the arms made out of that make the higher quality than RE's? Are they 2"x 3/16 wall DOM? RE's are 2"x 1/4 wall - ChroMo. CM is MUCH strongre than DOM is!! ...And they use Johnny Joints too...

I know Tera kits are Junk! I was saying that they are similar in design, not quality.

Also I didn't say that his kit was higher quality than the RE kit, I said that his was better quality than the Tera kit. I think that the design of the Long/Short arm system is better suited for a DD TJ. Call it personal preference, but I think that many of the RE kits that I see installed on TJ's are WAY too tall, I know for a fact that you can fit 35's with a 3 inch lift on a TJ with just a little bumpstop adjustment. So needing a 6 inch lift to clear 35's is a joke.
 

jfonze

Registered User
Supergper said:
based on the prices above the RE kit is cheaper...especially for what you get in it.


I'm not sure how the RE kit ends up being cheaper?

If a RE 4.5" kit goes for $2600ish (price Care of alljeep.com) and a RK 5.5" goes for $1800 and a RK 4" goes for $1550 and the rock krawler comes with a triangulated rear, and if you where to add a belly skid for $350, how does RE become cheaper than RK for what you get?

Now Nth degree on the other hand RE & RK is hella cheaper for what you get...
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
waynehartwig said:
I think it is... (cheaper) and better too.... I wish I could throw out pricing here in the forum, but I would get into BIG trouble and lose my dealership (MAP pricing rules). But I will tell you this, if I were to sell a RELA kit at retail, I would have enough profit to buy a 9.5ti winch at retail. You do the math! To even come close to Nth's cost, I could sell you the RELA kit at retail, their monotube shocks at retail, Tom Woods HD SYE and CV kit at retail and still be less than the Nth degree cost...What else would you need? Oh, and their new tri link kit at retail. What's that, about $3500 total and you would have a bad a$$ed rig!?


I was gonna say, there are two different vendors that support the board that sell the RE kit for well below retail...we know who one of them is now :greg:

BTW, wanna PM me a price for a SYE (AA if you sell it) and a driveshaft (all for a 97 TJ)...also whats the turn around on getting a shaft made? (I assume we would need to have the lift installed with the SYE installed to get an accurate measurement for a shaft...)
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
lenny said:
I know Tera kits are Junk! I was saying that they are similar in design, not quality.

Also I didn't say that his kit was higher quality than the RE kit, I said that his was better quality than the Tera kit. I think that the design of the Long/Short arm system is better suited for a DD TJ. Call it personal preference, but I think that many of the RE kits that I see installed on TJ's are WAY too tall, I know for a fact that you can fit 35's with a 3 inch lift on a TJ with just a little bumpstop adjustment. So needing a 6 inch lift to clear 35's is a joke.

My apologies then, I misunderstood what you were saying.

A friend of mine from another board thought the same way you do, that RELA's are a waste of money... Until he drove one. Now he is robbing the kids penny banks, picking up cans on the freeways, etc... Anything to come up with the $'s to buy it! Currently he has a 4" tera/RE hybrid. RE coils and Tera arms with Daystar bushings.

To clear 35's, you really only need 3.5" of lift, just enough to get the tire out of the fender well. But when you get it on the trail, and start flexing it, 5.5" is barely enough. If you put stops in to keep them from rubbing, you would lose all of your flex! And that's not just RE, that's every manufacture. If I was shopping for kits, I would see who has the tallest lift to fit the smallest tire, because that's the lift with the most flex. An RE 4.5" superflex will fit 35" tires, but a RELA won't, you need 5.5" to fit them. LOT of travel!
 
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