Best Way to "Paint" a Frame

[broncodan]

Just want to get your guys opinion on what is the best thing for cleaning up the frame's appearance. Powdercoating is nice, but is it worth the money? Should I Rhino Line it? What about a good industrial paint?

 

[mbryson]

The only bad thing about powdercoat is what to do with it when it does chip. If you're doing a show type rig that you want to look nice, powdercoat is by far the toughest 'paint' out there.

 

[Milner]

I don't like powder coat for such things. It seems to get chalky and as the hairless one said, it chips and is difficult to patch. Also rusts underneath when it chips and creates a bigger mess.
POR 15 would be my suggestion. You'll find A LOT of the EB guys use it.
My 27T rpu wil be all POR

 

[broncodan]

I am building the rig to look good, but I am going to drive it and wheel it as well. I want a product that is durable, looks good, and is easy to KEEP looking good. I will look into POR 15. THANKS!

 

[OCNORB]

I did mine with POR-15 6 or 7 years ago. It's pretty tough stuff. The only thing that will peel it is brake fluid. I had a hydraulic clutch that leaked on the frame and it has peeled the POR-15 off in that area.

 

[broncodan]

Is the POR dull or high gloss? From what I understand you just roll it on like paint, and there is no second coat, or clearcoat, or anything like that. That certainly seems to be the easiest. Am I understanding the process properly?

 

[OCNORB]

It can be done that way, but it is not UV resistant. The best way is to paint it right after it starts to get tacky. The instructions are on the can.

I am going to use Eastwoods rust encapsulator on my wife's 3B frame. It does not need a topcoat, and I already have a quart on hand. I have read on some of the hot-rod boards that works good, but it hasn't been out long enough to know how it holds up.

 

[broncodan]

Anyone else want to throw me there opinion? :greg:

 

[myota]

i voted industrial paint. the best industrial paint would be por-15. yay

 

[myota]

Is the POR dull or high gloss? From what I understand you just roll it on like paint, and there is no second coat, or clearcoat, or anything like that. That certainly seems to be the easiest. Am I understanding the process properly?

there are different types of por, you can get gloss or flat (if i remember correct) and you just roll or brush it on. no clear. don't let that shi* get on your hands, 'cause it likes to stay on. it'll stay on till your skin falls off
you can buy por at most autobody shops. keystone in murray is good. there's also a place near the napa at 13th south (just south on the other side of the road), can't remember the name right now...

 

[EZRhino]

I vote none of the above. Get it hot dip galvanized, that way it's coated inside and out.

Kurt had a slick trick for rust prevention....It's called wax. He used a 5 gallon bucket of liquid wax, don' t know what type exactly. He uses some kind of a sprayer wand that you can run inside the frame and through body support channels to completely coat everything. It doesn't come off and prevents moisture from getting to the metal. Pretty kewl idea.

EZ

 

[J.D. Howells]

I used the por-15 on my 1982 j-10

I used the por-15 on my frame and since I also had my front clip and bed off I sprayed the whole under side with it it looks really nice. All I did to spray the under side was went to harbor freight and bought a 20$ spray gun works really well and with no deluding I just dumped it into the sprayer. I did brush it on to my frame though. It worked all great sealed in the rust that I could not get to. the stupid thing is I did not put on gloves my hand was covered and being the stupid teen that I am I used solvent it got some of it off and kind of got light headed damn Im stupid maybe when I grow up I will find my brain. but my gramps gave me the best advice just rub your hands with lotion it will all be gone in half a week insted of two. but if your rich or you are more ambitious than me you should go get it galvanized my dad did it to his trailer wont ever rust again.

 

[broncodan]

I do now know if I have every seen anything that has been hot dip galvanized. Does it have good look when finished? Also, if you know anybody that does this it would save me some time. I would appreciate there name and contact info, I certainly have some questions for them.

 

[bobdog]

Don't dip galvanize it untill you are sure there is nothing else you ever want to weld to it.

 

[EZRhino]

Don't dip galvanize it untill you are sure there is nothing else you ever want to weld to it.

yeah sure...come on, like breathing the zinc vapors will hurt you

You would have to grind off the zinc first, and then recoat with the stuff in a can. Good point though....you'd want it as "complete" as possible, which , for many of us is a pipedream.

EZ

 

[Caleb]

the only issue with galvanizing it is the process can actually cause the welds to crack if they weren't done properly (don't ask me exactly what this means). I found this out when I was researching it when I was looking for options for my buggy. There is a place out on Old Bingham Hwy that was gonna dip my buggy chassis for less than two bills. I figured the risk of having a weld crack wasn't worth it.

POR-15 is a very good choice...however its not cheap, about $100 for a gallon, but it will last forever (unless its exposed to the sun or gets some type of stripper on it like brake fluid). We used to coat all our fourwheeler frames and racks in por-15, on the racks and parts that were exposed to any sun we would use a rustoleum top coat over the por-15...worked excellent.

 

[EZRhino]

Why would it make a weld crack? Consider all of Snowbird's ski lift towers are galvanized. Hot hot is the brew when you dip into it anyway? Certainly not enough to heat the metal/welds enough to break the bond. I'm confused.

Por 15 is good stuff. I've used the chassic coat black stuff with good results. Not cheap though. Lately i've been using rustoleum by the quart with good results. Thin it first.

EZ

 

[Caleb]

Why would it make a weld crack? Consider all of Snowbird's ski lift towers are galvanized. Hot hot is the brew when you dip into it anyway? Certainly not enough to heat the metal/welds enough to break the bond. I'm confused.


EZ

you've got me, I just read this multiple times and then when I asked about it the guy said it does happen. Its something with the process and the chemicals used, not the temperature of the dipping.

 

[broncodan]

I think that POR 15 and the chassis coat is a good way to go. The cost is not as big of a deal as getting a good product. I do not want to spend tons of money, but I want it to be done right. I have got it stripped clear down to the bare frame right now, and the last thing I want is to put it all back together and wish I did something different. That is why I am just taking my time and doing it right. I really appreciate everyones input. As I said, unless I get some other word I think POR 15 with the chassis coat is the route i'll take. I can do it myself, and it sounds like its the best application anyways.

 

[Caleb]

I think that POR 15 and the chassis coat is a good way to go. The cost is not as big of a deal as getting a good product. I do not want to spend tons of money, but I want it to be done right. I have got it stripped clear down to the bare frame right now, and the last thing I want is to put it all back together and wish I did something different. That is why I am just taking my time and doing it right. I really appreciate everyones input. As I said, unless I get some other word I think POR 15 with the chassis coat is the route i'll take. I can do it myself, and it sounds like its the best application anyways.

if you are at bare metal then I would highly suggest using Metal Ready (also made by POR-15). It will etch the metal and ensure a good bond between the metal and the POR15.


http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=177