broken axle extraction ideas

[BlackSheep]

Get a long piece of rod and drive it out from the other side....even detroits have a small hole in them that I have used rod through....

This is what I did when I broke an axle a few years ago. Just used a long piece of rebar that I was able to pick up from the metal shop in moab.


{edit}didn't read the whole thread, so I now realize this won't work for your situation. **/edit}

 

[DevinB]

I had this exact problem with my D35 when I broke a shaft. I ended up cutting the carrier in half with a cutting wheel to get the shaft and lockright out. Then I promptly sold the D35 lockright and upgraded axles.

 

[wr250]

the solution is simple:
remove the d44 axle housing
install a d60 35 spline axle housing assembly
gear appropriately
never worry about a broken axle again.

 

[notajeep]

I was waiting for that one.

 

[waynehartwig]

You should be able to remove the carrier. Maybe not straight out, but at least on an angle. You'll have to pull both shims, but you should be able to. That seal isn't that far into the axle tube....

 

[moabrangler]

Grind the inside of the tooth (that the pin hits) down on the Ring gear, that will let the pin slide.It worked on my XJ

 

[lewis]

You should be able to remove the carrier. Maybe not straight out, but at least on an angle. You'll have to pull both shims, but you should be able to. That seal isn't that far into the axle tube....

shims are on the inside of the bearings and I can't get the bearings off without getting the carrier out. I tried to twist it out at an angle with some big pry bars but still no go.

 

[lewis]

Grind the inside of the tooth (that the pin hits) down on the Ring gear, that will let the pin slide.It worked on my XJ

That sounds a little scary, will it weaken the ring at all? It sounds like a better option than cutting the carrier in half though.
I tried JB weld and it wasn't strong enough. It stuck to both surfaces but broke off in between. I decided to try urethane since U-418 is rated at about800 psi. Waiting for that to dry but not sure how well it will stick to the JB weld.

 

[lewis]

the solution is simple:
remove the d44 axle housing
install a d60 35 spline axle housing assembly
gear appropriately
never worry about a broken axle again.

That is a simple solution except that I eat refried bean sandwiches cause I am so damn poor.

 

[I Lean]

That sounds a little scary, will it weaken the ring at all? It sounds like a better option than cutting the carrier in half though.
I tried JB weld and it wasn't strong enough. It stuck to both surfaces but broke off in between. I decided to try urethane since U-418 is rated at about800 psi. Waiting for that to dry but not sure how well it will stick to the JB weld.

No big deal, it's done regularly on C-clip axles, since you need to be able to install/remove the crosspin to remove/reinstall axle shafts. Just grind carefully, and only remove what you need to.

 

[benjy]

No big deal, it's done regularly on C-clip axles, since you need to be able to install/remove the crosspin to remove/reinstall axle shafts. Just grind carefully, and only remove what you need to.

I've *heard* that some guys have to grind down up to 3 teeth off the ring gear

 

[waynehartwig]

Grind the inside of the tooth (that the pin hits) down on the Ring gear, that will let the pin slide.It worked on my XJ

x2 It's also what I do... You either have a choice, gear or xpin. I always choose the gear of the xpin. The xpin needs all the help it can get. The gear will only be a small amount weaker and only in that area. You aren't grinding all of the gear away, just enough to clear the xpin.

In these pictures you can see the ring gear clearanced for the xpin...

 

[waynehartwig]

shims are on the inside of the bearings and I can't get the bearings off without getting the carrier out. I tried to twist it out at an angle with some big pry bars but still no go.

oooo that's right...my bad!

 

[waynehartwig]

That sounds a little scary, will it weaken the ring at all? It sounds like a better option than cutting the carrier in half though.
I tried JB weld and it wasn't strong enough. It stuck to both surfaces but broke off in between. I decided to try urethane since U-418 is rated at about800 psi. Waiting for that to dry but not sure how well it will stick to the JB weld.

It won't as long as you go slow and keep the heat to min. Grind a second and wait, etc. Try to always keep it cool to the touch and you wont' have any problems!

 

[waynehartwig]

I've *heard* that some guys have to grind down up to 3 teeth off the ring gear

True, but if you look at the pictures I just posted of one that I did, you can see it doesn't take much material away....

 

[benjy]

True, but if you look at the pictures I just posted of one that I did, you can see it doesn't take much material away....

not nearly as bad as I thought it'd be

 

[cruiseroutfit]

No big deal, it's done regularly on C-clip axles, since you need to be able to install/remove the crosspin to remove/reinstall axle shafts. Just grind carefully, and only remove what you need to.

Yup, not only regularly, but required for many Landcruiser applications... I've sold a ton of "ground" ring gears in setup 3rds (many of which grand-master Carl setup), never an issue with any of them... period.

 

[Steve]

Since you have access to a stick welder it's easy - really. I didn't believe this would work until I did it. Doesn't matter what rod you use, but use a larger diameter vs smaller rod. Turn heat down. Stick 2 or 3 rods together end-to-end by welding them. Once you have a long enough piece, cover it all except the end with duct tape (this step is important ). Ground the carrier, and weld the long rod to the broken stub. Pull it out.

Yes, it really works quite well as long as you turn the heat down so the rod will simply stick and not strike an arc.

 

[waynehartwig]

not nearly as bad as I thought it'd be

It's really not a big deal and 100 times better than grinding the xpin. xpin's are already weak as it is, but grinding almost half of it away to get it in, definately makes it worse. And that's something that will ALWAYS be weak, no matter where the ring and pinion are sitting. With just grinding the ring, it's only SLIGHTLY weaker and in only that area.

Wasn't this covered in the drivetrain book you bought from me? I haven't read it all yet, but I'm sure it was...?

 

[benjy]

Wasn't this covered in the drivetrain book you bought from me?

Full time work, full time school, the only reading I get to is textbooks lately, waiting for summer to dig into that deeper. It's a great book btw [/hijack]