broken mount...what to do?

[Cascadia]

I broker my upper control arm mount tonight on the axle end of the arm. it was a stock mount. can I weld it back together where it's cracked and then plate it and weld a little more or what's the best option? I can't believe how much an axle can move with just one out of four mounts broken. it's all over the place.

 

[Kiel]

Plating it would be the cheap fix, but it will probabaly just happen again, just on the other side of where you plated it. I would look into a complete bracket kit for the front axle, I want to say poly performance sells it? I'm sure there are others

 

[DaveB]

Teraflex has some stronger mounts that I have used in the past.

 

[Cascadia]

After taking a better look today in the light I noticed more to my break. It is my rear upper on the driver side. Didn't notice it earlier but I finally found out why there is so much movement now. My track bar is mounted to the back of that mount. Along with that, from moving back and forth I now have a pinched hard brake line. At least it's not leaking though. It is just completely pinched shut. I still have no idea how it happened either. Went up AF Canyon and wheeled fine the whole time and I barely noticed it when I was getting ready to leave the asphalt parking lot when I turned my first corner. The body slammed ahrd to the right and we could hear my tire rubbing the frame. I've checked out teraflex so far and they are cheaper than rubicon express. That's probably what I'll go with. Is the main purpose of the track bar is to locate the axle? Does it limit flex?

 

[GOAT]

After taking a better look today in the light I noticed more to my break. It is my rear upper on the driver side. Didn't notice it earlier but I finally found out why there is so much movement now. My track bar is mounted to the back of that mount. Along with that, from moving back and forth I now have a pinched hard brake line. At least it's not leaking though. It is just completely pinched shut. I still have no idea how it happened either. Went up AF Canyon and wheeled fine the whole time and I barely noticed it when I was getting ready to leave the asphalt parking lot when I turned my first corner. The body slammed ahrd to the right and we could hear my tire rubbing the frame. I've checked out teraflex so far and they are cheaper than rubicon express. That's probably what I'll go with. Is the main purpose of the track bar is to locate the axle? Does it limit flex?

dont you have an RE longarm kit?

 

[Cascadia]

Actually I just have the RE longarm upgrade kit. All of the other suspension parts on the jeep are from a teraflex 4 inch. Why?

 

[UNSTUCK]

So did you brake a teraflex bracket or a stock bracket? Either way, I say cut it all off and start over. If you already have aftermarket brackets, there's no reason to replace them. Just buy/build a new bracket to replace the broken one. You might also want to think about moving the track bar mount so that one bracket doesn't see forces from front to back and left to right.

 

[GOAT]

Actually I just have the RE longarm upgrade kit. All of the other suspension parts on the jeep are from a teraflex 4 inch. Why?

Are you running the RE triangulated upper conversion? RE kits, particularly LJs that retain the trackbar are notorious for ripping upper mounts off.

 

[Slangy]

I did the same exact thing a couple years ago. I bought a new bracket from Rusty's. I may still have the other laying around since they were a package deal, let me take a look tonight and if I can find it you can have it.

 

[Cascadia]

No mine isn't triangulated. And I tore off the stock mount for the rear upper arm and the track bar bolts to the back of it. The one I am looking at from tera is 2 separate brackets. The control arm bracket is welded to the axle and the the track bar bracket is welded to the axle and the arm bracket. Is something else recommended?

 

[Greg]

Time to upgrade? The TeraFlex LCG kit triangulates the upper, rear control arm mounts, getting rid of the track bar.

Not sure how easy it would be to change out your upper control arms and mounts, obviously quite a bit of cutting & welding would be required, but it might be worth it if the current kit is known to fail.

 

[GOAT]

I tore off the stock mount for the rear upper arm and the track bar bolts to the back of it.

Yep, that sounds about right. There is a TON of stress on that bracket due to REs poor suspension geometry and it is exacerbated by the extra bracket bolted on to it.

If you don't already have one, get an adjustable trackbar and make sure the axle is centered correctly at ride height and then adjust the trackbar to fit. Dont force the axle. Better yet, do away with the trackbar

Any good fabshop can use your existing uppers and make some frame brackets and truss to create a 4link configuration.

my 2c

 

[Cascadia]

So since my rear uppers are mounted to the RE skid plate how would I make that into a 4 link? Wouldn't the arms be too long then? I guess I just need to take a look at it. I found some link towers on ballistic for an axle link mount but the problem is the shortes one they have is 7 inches center to center and my stock mounts are 5 inches center to center. If I don't do a 4 link where else can I get brackets? How else do I eliminate a track bar other than making it a 4 link?

 

[GOAT]

So since my rear uppers are mounted to the RE skid plate how would I make that into a 4 link? Wouldn't the arms be too long then? I guess I just need to take a look at it. I found some link towers on ballistic for an axle link mount but the problem is the shortes one they have is 7 inches center to center and my stock mounts are 5 inches center to center. If I don't do a 4 link where else can I get brackets? How else do I eliminate a track bar other than making it a 4 link?

Fab some upper brackets moving the upper arm mounts rearward and attach them to the frame. This will also help with the antisquat issues built into the RE skid. You can easily buy/fab a truss that will rotate the attachment points forward (not inline with rear cover). The effect from the small difference in the upper/lower arms length will be minimal. The added separation from the truss and frame brackets will do wonders for your jeep's performance.

clayton used to make a RE upgrade kit.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=442003&highlight=rubicon+express+triangulated

 

[Cascadia]

I measured my upper arms and from where they are now (straight back), and where they will be moved will work out due to the angle. The front mount of the rear uppers will move back on the frame about 2 inches and up about an inch. Who makes a good truss for the rear axle? Ballistic has some upper link frame mounts that have a 22.5 degree angle. Does the angle on the bracket have to be the exact same as the angle of the arms or is the room for play? I'm liking the idea of making it a 4 link but I just don't know the benefits or downfalls of it. Parts wise it costs about the same to 4 link it or to just fix the track bar and link mount. The only extra cost I can see is the truss and having to move my exhaust again. Am I missing something? Is something like this from Claytons strong enough?
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_39&products_id=131

 

[GOAT]

I measured my upper arms and from where they are now (straight back), and where they will be moved will work out due to the angle. The front mount of the rear uppers will move back on the frame about 2 inches and up about an inch. Who makes a good truss for the rear axle? Ballistic has some upper link frame mounts that have a 22.5 degree angle. Does the angle on the bracket have to be the exact same as the angle of the arms or is the room for play? I'm liking the idea of making it a 4 link but I just don't know the benefits or downfalls of it. Parts wise it costs about the same to 4 link it or to just fix the track bar and link mount. The only extra cost I can see is the truss and having to move my exhaust again. Am I missing something? Is something like this from Claytons strong enough?
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_39&products_id=131

there is always additional cost

One thing to consider is most aftermarket brackets are drilled for joints that are 9/16" and are 2.62" wide. Your RE joints and OEM style upper bushings use a metric size bolt slightly smaller than 7/16"( I forget the exact MM) and are 2" wide so you will need to have someone make some brackets. Not a big deal though, a shop such as BHR can do something like this with ease.

As much as like like clayton's products, i'm not sold the new truss using round tube with only two attachment points. Especially on a TJ44.

consider this
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/medium-axle-truss-p-436.html

 

[Cascadia]

That sucks. I was hoping that at least the buying parts would be easy. Turns out nothing is easy. It's my daily driver and I was hoping to get some brackets next day'd. How long do fab shops around here usually take? Everyone on here had me so ready to get this thing going. I was ready to flex like goose's truck. Ha, right.

 

[I Lean]

Did you read Herzog's thread on modifying his parent's TJ RE LA kit? It's here: http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=40852&highlight=triangulated

 

[Cascadia]

I haven't read it. I'll check it out though. Thanks.

 

[BenHanksRacing1]

We can help you out just give me a call.