Jeep Building the RockyMountainExtreme.com Jeep Wrangler
- Thread starter Greg
- Start date
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I really can't think of anything Joe, I think I have all of my bases covered! I appreciate the offer though!
Nope, that's the original 1/2 ton truck pan.
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
:greg:
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Full Hydro steering parts are on their way.-
I bought everything from one place, the guy also recommended running straight power steering fluid. Seems like a no brainer, but I have heard of people running ATF & hydraulic fluid.
- Char-Lynn orbital valve, part # 211-1010.
- 2.5" Steering column adapter.
- 2" Bore x 8" Stroke Hyd cylinder.
- 2, 1" bolts with Nylon locknuts.
- Mounting plate for orbital valve.
- 4, 3/8" mounting bolts for orbital valve.
- 2, 3/8" npt x 3/8"jic adapters.
- 4, 3/8" jic x 1/2" mb adapters.
- 1, O-ring PS x 3/8" jic adapter.
I bought everything from one place, the guy also recommended running straight power steering fluid. Seems like a no brainer, but I have heard of people running ATF & hydraulic fluid.
Ohms
'Poser Wheeler
- Location
- the gates of hell
Greg, build looks awesome man. We always ran a clear hydro fluid (chevrolet?) and it held up the best against frothing and overheating. I'll see if I can locate what that stuff was-It definately was the best we found
I guess I could have used a few more words.... are you going to get a Camaro pan for it?
Nice! Sounds like you got the same valve and cylinder as I did. You shouldn't be disappointed. They work very well together.
I've ran regular hydraulic fluid and PS Fluid in my same system. I don't notice a difference between the two. Any fluid will foam and bubble if you have any air caught in the system. I've never had a problem.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I'll keep that in mind, thanks Matt.
Nice! Sounds like you got the same valve and cylinder as I did. You shouldn't be disappointed. They work very well together.
I've ran regular hydraulic fluid and PS Fluid in my same system. I don't notice a difference between the two. Any fluid will foam and bubble if you have any air caught in the system. I've never had a problem.
Yep, going off your rave reviews how could I not! The guy I was talking to mentioned that ATF is too thin & hydraulic fluid is too thick. The hydraulic fluid really works the pump, according to him. I'll probably try some kind of synthetic, which ever is best at managing fluid temps.
Not sure why I would... the stock one fits fine if that's what you're getting at. I'm going to build some skid plates for both the engine & transmission, I don't care for the aluminum pans hanging down.
Good to know, I'll check it out. I'm almost sure that's what was in the pump to begin with.
chadschoon
Well-Known Member
- Location
- lehi
Last edited:
RockChucker
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
very sweet. i like how it is all falling together!
R
rockdog
Guest
Greg, I've got tractor hydraulic transmission fluid in mine. I read a post on pirate by Dustin Webster. He said they are running it in the rockher and are really happy with the results. He is running amisol. I couldn't find it, so I just used regular. It seems to work ok so far. Haven't ran it wheel'en yet. But it didn't foam at all and I didn't bleed anything before starting the motor.
But it didn't foam at all and I didn't bleed anything before starting the motor.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Well... have you ever mounted a tire by hand before? I've done hundreds... and thousands with machines. I've installed tires for just about everything, 44" Swampers, tons of drag car tires, grader/loader/backhoe tires, semi tires, etc. I have actually installed something very similar to a Staun years ago, for a drag car. That being said, it took me about an hour for each wheel/tire/Staun combo. And I bent one of my Harbor Freight tire irons.
Since you use a tube with the Staun, their instructions direct you not to use any lube to set the beads, or just use straight water since it will evaporate. You need to spread chalk (or baby powder, thats what I used since the chalk bag was kind of small) all over the tube & inside the Staun. This will prevent the tube from folding & tearing as it's inflated. It's very important that nothing gets the tube wet or you will blow the tube.
I used baby powder on the beads too & while it's a PITA, it is doable. Once you get the first bead on, you insert the first bead of the Staun over the wheel, inside the tire. Then the tube goes inside the Staun, then the 2nd bead of the Staun. After that, install the 2nd tire bead once the flap is lined up around the valve stem. Then you have to alternate between inflating the Staun & the tire, to seat the bead of the tire. I got a good deal of air in the Staun (don't go over 50 PSI), then inflated the tire the rest of the way to seat the bead. It's kind of nerve racking and you have to remember that the tube is much smaller than the tire, so it gets to 50 PSI much faster. Get the tube over 50 PSI & you risk popping it.
IMO, I wouldn't trust the 18 yr old punk at the tire store with a Staun install, so I did them myself. I did it all on my own and while 2 pair of hands could be handy with inserting the tube/Staun, there's not a ton of room.
I have 2 more to do (I got one package with a 16" Staun, though it was marked 17". I'm waiting on my replacement 17") and by the time I fought with that wrong size, I was to tired to finish the other one. I was planning on doing a full writeup with pics, but unless that happens tomorrow, it'll be a week out.
Something to think about... the replacement valve stem Staun provides for your tire is metal. They will break if a rock gets ahold of them & would be a PITA to replace on the trail, with the Staun installed. I welded up the original valve stem hole, then put both the Staun valve stem & the tire valve stem on the backside of the wheel. With 17" wheels, both valve stems clear the brake parts with plenty of room.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I've been in Nevada for the last week, so at this point... nothing new. Plenty to come over the next few days, I hope to get it rolling with the drivetrain installed, comp cut done & begin installing the body armor.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Just some updates... I've had a few setbacks. :-\
I had a problem with one of my Stauns, they packaged a 16" beadlock in a 17" package. I didn't catch it until I was trying to install it. The folks from Staun USA sent UPS to pick up the 16" Staun & said they'd ship out the right one. I did tell her I need one for a 17x9 wheel. Well it came a couple days ago and... it's for a 15" wheel! So I left a mean message & got a call this morning. They're going to straighten it out... again.
Got my wiring harness back from Wait4MePerformance... pretty much what I expected... not great. I sent a very detailed letter, matter of fact, here's an excerpt-
So I wanted to either (1) Hear from them that I don't need a VSS at all, or (2) Have them keep a VSS in my harness so the engine won't die. I would have preferred to keep the VSS.
Well, I don't have a VSS plug in my harness & they never let me know if it will work w/o. Everything I have read indicates that the motor may have problems stalling, so I'm not too happy there.
The Sanderson headers arrived, looks like they will probably hit the UCA's too. If I have to, I'll heat them up with a torch & tweak the collectors towards the block. Yeah...
One the positive side, I got my full-hydro steering parts! I found a guy on EBay that sells a nearly-complete kit, minus hoses. He included an opened-center Orbital, ram, fittings, bolts, mount, etc. It was a bit more than piecing it all together, but convenience was well worth it. I called him for info before buying & was pleased with the service & info he provided.
I had a problem with one of my Stauns, they packaged a 16" beadlock in a 17" package. I didn't catch it until I was trying to install it. The folks from Staun USA sent UPS to pick up the 16" Staun & said they'd ship out the right one. I did tell her I need one for a 17x9 wheel. Well it came a couple days ago and... it's for a 15" wheel!
So I left a mean message & got a call this morning. They're going to straighten it out... again. Got my wiring harness back from Wait4MePerformance... pretty much what I expected... not great. I sent a very detailed letter, matter of fact, here's an excerpt-
So I wanted to either (1) Hear from them that I don't need a VSS at all, or (2) Have them keep a VSS in my harness so the engine won't die. I would have preferred to keep the VSS.
Well, I don't have a VSS plug in my harness & they never let me know if it will work w/o. Everything I have read indicates that the motor may have problems stalling, so I'm not too happy there.
The Sanderson headers arrived, looks like they will probably hit the UCA's too. If I have to, I'll heat them up with a torch & tweak the collectors towards the block. Yeah...
One the positive side, I got my full-hydro steering parts! I found a guy on EBay that sells a nearly-complete kit, minus hoses. He included an opened-center Orbital, ram, fittings, bolts, mount, etc. It was a bit more than piecing it all together, but convenience was well worth it. I called him for info before buying & was pleased with the service & info he provided.