Cascadia
Undecided
- Location
- Orem, Utah
Remove the springs? Ha. Why would I lower it enough to run 35's? Just cause my axles or is there another reason?
Cascadia LJ Build
- Thread starter Cascadia
- Start date
rholbrook
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Kaysville, Ut
What I really meant was to keep it with about a 3" to 4" lift. Being an LJ you should put a belly up pan on it to gain your extra clearance underneath if you haven't already. Last year I ran Moab Rim with an LJ with a 6" long arm and 37s. He had the stock fenders so he had to move it up in the air to clear the tires. We were betting he would roll it before the trail was done. He didn't but man it was wobbley with the swaybars disconnected. LOW CENTER OF GRAVITY is where its at IMO. I think what Goat is saying makes sense but if your going to drive it daily than 40s doesn't make a lot of sense. I am really interested to see yours done so I can make a decision on my LJ. Keep posting the pictures.
Cascadia
Undecided
- Location
- Orem, Utah
I wasn't sure if you were being sarcastic or not about the pucks. But that's what I've been thinking. I want to take out the pucks so it'll be about a 4 inch lift, maybe less cause the springs have been in there for a couple years. But I was also wondering about putting some different springs in instead, a little lower. If I had a Hemi like Nates with 40's it would be fine as a daily driver but I'm pretty sure my 4.0 wouldn't like it, or my axles. I want to stay low but also want to be big. I should have some more pictures posted up today of more work.
GOAT
Back from the beyond
- Location
- Roanoke, VA
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Cascadia
Undecided
- Location
- Orem, Utah
Wow, only 15 g's later and a lifetime of knowledge and fabwork on your own and you have that. Perfect.
GOAT
Back from the beyond
- Location
- Roanoke, VA
hmm, well maybe that wasn't a good example as it doesn't have much in common with yours.
i'll keep looking
Tyson, I think you're on the right track. Do the simple stuff first. Take the pucks out and see how it sits and rides. Run it a while and see what you like and don't like. You've done a ton of work on that thing so get out and enjoy and see where to tweak it next. I think you're on the right track lowering it a bit. If it's not low enough I'll bet you could trade your 4" springs for some 3" and if that's still too tall throw in stock springs with the 2" pucks. The thing is do it simple and run it, then decide.
rholbrook
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Kaysville, Ut
Where are the new pictures?????
Cascadia
Undecided
- Location
- Orem, Utah
Thanks Bart. That's what I'm going to do for now. I don't want anymore than 4 inches. I haven't had much time to work on it today but I've got one front fender completely done with the inner wheel well and battery and a few other things remounted. I hope to have it done this weekend.
GOAT
Back from the beyond
- Location
- Roanoke, VA
*This isn't a dig or attack on you. You are asking for advice on a 4x4 website*
There is a reason why nobody wants 37s. You'll spend far less money in the long run accepting the fact that 35s will perform well on 95% of the trails in Utah. Any trail requiring tires beyond 35s, will turn your LJ's tub inside out. Be prepared for that reality.
It seems that you are building your rig to use mismatched components that you want, and are making sacrifices to do so.
Example: RE longarm kit. This kit does not belong on any LCG build (or much else), yet you have highline fenders for lower ride height.
You mention the large gaps in the fenders and want to install 37s to fill the gap. Longevity and reliability be damned. You are now going to remove the pucks to lower your ride height which will assure that the lower arms will get hung up on everything.
In your shoes, I'd get a set of quality 35" MTs and some alloy shafts. Your current RE suspension could be band-aided with ProComp 4" coils, genright front swaybar, 3/4" rear swaybar, and a center limiting strap to finish it off. Later you can hack the RE arms up to do away with the front radius arms and low hanging rear arms & trackbar.
All tormenting aside, my purpose in posting that thread was to illustrate what size tire you can run on 2.5"-3" lift, highlines and shortarms when designed as a whole.
They are now running 42s
Cascadia
Undecided
- Location
- Orem, Utah
Finished up installing the tube fenders tonight. Got the inner wheel wells back in, all of the underhood components moved and remounted, other than the windshield washer fluid bottle. Also, installed the new battery that I bought off a guy on RME, supposed to be better than an optima yellow or red top. I guess we'll see. Last battery I had fried my winch. Speaking of winches, what's the best way to repair mine? Also installed the rear litedot tail lights tonight and the front 3/4 inch led turn signal lights that install into the tube fenders. Put the 37" iroks on, cut the hood down a little more. Overall I probably trimmed about 3.25" off of it, then remounted the fender and hood latches. Everything lines up awesome. I'm attaching some pics to it. You can see some of the things under the hood that have been moved. The computer on the right side is mounted flat instead of upright, the battery is now mounted on an angle, the fuse box is now mounted flat to the fender instead of up in a mount, the horn was rotated, and I think there was something else but can't remember right now. In one of the pictures it looks like the gap in the front of the hood is running but it's not, it's just cause of the angle.
All I have left now is to weld the rear tubes on, mount the rocker guards and get it painted. I want to get it painted before I get the rockers on so It'll all be the same color and don't want to risk painting the nice shiny genright rocker guards.
Sorry all the pics are so crappy for this whole build. Someone stole our camera nd all of the pics have been taken with my phone. That's why there's never a full jeep pic, cause my garage is too small.
All I have left now is to weld the rear tubes on, mount the rocker guards and get it painted. I want to get it painted before I get the rockers on so It'll all be the same color and don't want to risk painting the nice shiny genright rocker guards.
Sorry all the pics are so crappy for this whole build. Someone stole our camera nd all of the pics have been taken with my phone. That's why there's never a full jeep pic, cause my garage is too small.
Attachments
Cascadia
Undecided
- Location
- Orem, Utah
I took it for a drive last night and flexed it up on a big rock and before the 35 would stuff into the flare and bend it up a little. Now with the 37's and hi fender it was still about 6 inches from bottom of the fender. Bart, as for the tire coverage, if you're looking at the front tires from the rear, the fender covers the whole tire except for about an inch and a half. So I'm hoping that will be enough to pass safety cause this will be my daily driver. That was going to be my next post on here was where to go to get safety that is a little lenient with tire coverage. May is when I need safety.
rholbrook
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Kaysville, Ut
Lets see all the pictures now that its done.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Cascadia
Undecided
- Location
- Orem, Utah
I guess I'll have to rig something up then when the time comes. I'll get some good pics taken today. I just got the rocker guards all mounted up and done and I'm hopefully on my way to get the rear tubes welded up.
mierdota
Well-Known Member
take your stock tj flares and stick them to the tube flares with double sided tape. I bet you can find someone who will pass it i just got mine passed
Cascadia
Undecided
- Location
- Orem, Utah
Your jeep is the one I was looking at thinking to myself, I know he drives that a lot on the street, how does he pass. I'll have to try that.