Jeep Cheap Cherokee Build
- Thread starter RockMonkey
- Start date
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
$250 for ball joints. Ouch! I'll see how long these last. They have a lifetime warranty, so they should be free to replace, if I'm willing to do the labor every time. I've really never had problems with ball joints, so I'm a bit surprised to hear how often everyone is replacing them.
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
Just to cursed people like you and Carl.
Also, that was joint to joint, so my new track bar will also be 38.5", bolt to bolt.
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
Just to cursed people like you and Carl.
Also... Guess where all this 38.5 discussion happened in this thread. Right in the middle of page 38.
It was all meant to be.
I don't see any reason why you can't build a trackbar mount that welds to both the axle tube and the cast-ish part, and if you want to incorporate a hole to bolt to the old mount then all the better. IIRC, Yellowbronco's link mounts are welded solely to the cast, so it must be better than plain 'ol "cast". If that makes sense.
I don't see any reason why you can't build a trackbar mount that welds to both the axle tube and the cast-ish part, and if you want to incorporate a hole to bolt to the old mount then all the better. IIRC, Yellowbronco's link mounts are welded solely to the cast, so it must be better than plain 'ol "cast". If that makes sense.
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
I should have known I was going to have to re-do my drag link when it didn't end up 38.5 inches the first time.It was all meant to be.
I don't see any reason why you can't build a trackbar mount that welds to both the axle tube and the cast-ish part, and if you want to incorporate a hole to bolt to the old mount then all the better. IIRC, Yellowbronco's link mounts are welded solely to the cast, so it must be better than plain 'ol "cast". If that makes sense.
It's looking like it will end up somewhere above the factory hole, which would mean welding the bracket onto the cast bit. It's good to know that's probably possible.
So, is my tie rod "Brett-ish"?
Also... Guess where all this 38.5 discussion happened in this thread. Right in the middle of page 38.
Nope, yours is completely flat.
Also, unless you're planning on redoing your tie rod, I'd just run with the slightly bent TRE you have now....it's not that bad.
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
Nope, yours is completely flat.
Also, unless you're planning on redoing your tie rod, I'd just run with the slightly bent TRE you have now....it's not that bad.
I'll probably go grab a new one, they're pretty cheap. Then I'll toss that one in the tool box for a spare.
My existing track bar is long enough to use the material to make a new drag link. I just need about 40 inches of 1 1/4" x .281 DOM to make a new track bar. Anyone have some I can buy? If not, would Metalmart have that?
I have toob.
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
Ooh, I'll get an exact measurement and bring my taps with me.
Draw up your trackbar mount, cut it out at the same time. :greg:
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Does the draglink hit the ps frame rail and oil pan still at full twist?
I really want to make a comment on "Cheap Cherokee" and a Reid Knuckle, but I guess with a d44 it isn't like it is "uber-expensive" and since you cheaped out and only got one I will give you a pass...
I have always ran spicer ball joints, rarely have I had to replace them, I usually do it when I have the axle apart and do it as a "since it is apart" thing.
nathan
99 cherokee, with working cruise control... among other things...
http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?83436-Nathan-and-Tanja-s-99-XJ-Build-up
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
Nope, everything clears at all points in the suspension cycle. Here is the drag link with the passenger side fully compressed, and the driver side fully extended. It's hard to tell from the pic, but the drag link clears both the frame and the oil pan. If anything, this should get better with the new track bar.
Also, here is the new steering geometry at ride height. You can really see how big a difference it is from the way it was, by comparing the drag link to the track bar.
Attachments
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
The whole build has been about making it work as well as it possibly can, without spending unnecessary money. I tried to go cheaper on the steering, and it didn't work, so the Reid knuckle was the next step. I got the cheapest high-steer arm I could find! Converting to a Chevy knuckle really wouldn't have saved much, if anything, after having it machined and replacing the non-compatible parts.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Very cool! I changed mine the exact same way. I think you'll like it.
Steering response seemed better with the flat trackbar, and with the higher roll center from the raised trackbar mount it will feel more stable.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Very cool!