Cheaper R.E. Lift?

[Nagrom]

I've been putting a little aside for a lift, and finally thought it had matured enough to cash in. Everyone seemed to like the rubicon lifts so I checked them out to see the longarm lift I want for my Cherokee is about $1900 Anyway, Do I need to go to Vegas and double my money, or does anyone know a cheaper place to get a Rubicon Express lift? Also does anyone have any opinions on a "just as good lift" for less out of pocket pain?

 

[Tacoma]

weeeellll

you might get lucky and find a pal who has just rolled his jeep.... heheh it worked for me.
Barring that, I don't know that you'll get too much of a discount anywhere else. Looking at the Teraflex arms, I think for the money someone could make the arms themselves for a bit less, fab some alternative crossmember etc..

Not really sure! good luck though.

 

[BlackSheep]

I'd go talk to those guys at Rocklogic. Obviously, the cost depends on exactly how much work you want done, but they built a set of front control arms for me (based on drawings and measurements I provided) at a very reasonable cost. I brought them a bag of parts (RE joints), and I came back a few days later to pick up a set of control arms. Beefy as hell.

 

[Badcop]

ROCK KRAWLER XJ SEVERE DUTY LONG ARM KIT-------$475
ROCK KRAWLER BRAKE LINES-------------------------$79
RUSTYS 8.5-9” FRONT COILS------------------------$149
RUSTYS 6” REAR LEAFS-----------------------------$299
TRAILMASTER SSV 31" SHOCKS----------------------$200
RE 1.75 SHACKLES----------------------------------$32
RE 2" BLOCKS---------------------------------------$40
RE 1.5 COIL SPACERS-------------------------------$30


TOTAL COST--------------$1304



Biggest downfall to what I have done, and why I hold a low opinion of RK and Rustys, the RK makes alot of noise during daily driving. I mean ALOT of clunks and clanks. The Rustys stuff doesnt hold long during alot of "hard" wheeling. The springs sag early. RE is definatly the best off the shelf lift IMO.

In the end, you get what you pay for.

 

[XJEEPER]

RE gear will treat you right, it's been good to me for several years. Not sure why you want the long arm setup, they do ride a little smoother on the street but decrease ground clearance in the rocks, but it all depends on how you use your rig. If it's an RE kit you want, then you have several options that fall in the $800-1300 range. I've put my lift together for much less than that using some new and some used RE components. You didn't really say how much lift you were shooting for, I assume since you're looking at the LA kit that 5.5-6" is your target. Not sure if you factored in the $$ for additional items that will be needed for your XJ to be a good driver at that height, like upgraded steering, SYE/HD drieveshaft to eliminate vibes and lower gearing to compensate for larger tires that nearly always accompany a lift.

Hit me with a PM if you want more tech on this setup.

 

[Nagrom]

I recently aquired four 35" tires for an extremely good price, So I am looking for 5.5 to 6 inches of lift. I want as little lift as possible to keep a low center of gravity but with a four door 96 XJ I can't do a whole lot of trimming. Anyway, It looks like I'm gonna have to bite the bullet on the lift or sabatoge a buddy's rig . As for wanting the LA lift, I just heard they would take a beating above and beyond any standard Suspesion lift, yet be smooth as a baby's butt on road too. I'm still very green at this though, So if anyone has a better idea, I'd appreciate the help.

 

[Ken]

How's about you trade me those 35's for my set of 33 swamper radials, with the rims (eagle alloys) and just get 4-5 inches. I may have some rustys six inch springs that you could take off my hands for 50 bucks. maybe even some 4.5 inch ones too. Let my know. I want 35's. If you go bigger than 5 the price increase of a lift is drastic.

 

[WayneXJ]

I may be selling most of my components from my used RE 5.5 lift sometime soon.

 

[Nagrom]

How's about you trade me those 35's for my set of 33 swamper radials, with the rims (eagle alloys) and just get 4-5 inches. I may have some rustys six inch springs that you could take off my hands for 50 bucks. maybe even some 4.5 inch ones too. Let my know. I want 35's. If you go bigger than 5 the price increase of a lift is drastic.

I dunno if you would want them. They were used wrangler MTR's and r down to about half tread on the rear and quarter tread on the fronts. I picked em up cause I did'nt want to deal with the lift, rims and tires all on the same drop. I definately have no problem sticken 33's under it but I'm kinda set on a long arm lift w/ about a 5" or 6" cause eventually I'll put 35's even if I end up putting the 33's. Gotta go bigger than my ZJ

 

[Tacoma]

bust out the sawzall!

 

[Ken]

Well I like the long arm kits that use your old upper arm mounts on the dana 30. I got the RK kit and thought I had a great deal until the drivers side arm tore the axle bracket in two. If you get the RK arms reinforce the mounting points or you'll be hurting later. But I've wheeled hard so that's what happens. Some kid I bought my rear ends from used the drop brackets and longer short arms, and upper arms with some fender trimming and fit 37's under his but I think would go with a long arm setup mainly for the articulation. I even got away without a SYE and eight inches!!! It was sweet, for the time until I went bigger. Save your money and do it right the first time and you will save big in the end. I would buy a 4.5 inch lift and then get the pucks/blocks/leafs to get you to six then at least do a CV driveline with a tranfer case drop, If you can't do the SYE. But I'm telling you just wait another month, save your money and get the SYE and you'll have less worry. Have Six states do your driveline work. Talk to Eric. Whatever you do do not get the track bar relocation bracket that skyjacker sells. It is a piece of Sh!t.

 

[Nagrom]

I plan on doin it right the first time no matter what. The problem is I am not yet knowledgable enough to know what "right" is. I've been wheelin mostly stock for about 6 years in three different vehicles, So when it comes to buildin them up I'm kinda lost. For instance, What is SYE? I've heard it mentioned a billion times but still haven't been able to piece together what exactly it is. All I know is it has to with adjusting somthing when you add a lot of lift. Sorry for my stupidity that's why I waited so long to ask... Laugh it up

 

[Caleb]

I plan on doin it right the first time no matter what. The problem is I am not yet knowledgable enough to know what "right" is. I've been wheelin mostly stock for about 6 years in three different vehicles, So when it comes to buildin them up I'm kinda lost. For instance, What is SYE? I've heard it mentioned a billion times but still haven't been able to piece together what exactly it is. All I know is it has to with adjusting somthing when you add a lot of lift. Sorry for my stupidity that's why I waited so long to ask... Laugh it up

hey, we all learned at some point...SYE=Slip Yoke Eliminator...it changes the slip yoke on your transfer case to a fixed yoke allowing you to run a CV driveshaft which allows for more angle which is why you need it when you lift it past a certain point (I dont know the max on an XJ). Also, it makes it so that if you happen to bust a rear driveline and you dont have a spare you can just remove the busted one and drive out in two wheel drive...with the stock one if you tried that you would be dumping all your fluid out...

 

[Tacoma]

I get a pretty good vibe out of mine, somewhere around a 6" lift. I feel so bad for those u-joints.

 

[Nagrom]

Ahhhh, It's like a giant burden has been lifted from my shoulders. JK I'm obviously going to have to do it to my XJ, What does it cost to add a SYE anyway?

 

[Badcop]

Couple hundred for parts if you do it yourself. Im close to 9" with my XJ and I get no vibes whatsoever. I did however add a 1" block to the rear axle so it shimmed the angle of the rear diff.

 

[XJEEPER]

35's on a D30 will push it's strength limits, but many folks run them and carry extra 760 jointed shafts, upgrade to Warn hubs w/alloy shafts, etc. This gets really expensive, and most feel that it's cheaper to just build a D44 for the front than sink extra money into a D30 to run big rubber.
That being said, one can run 33's or the metric equivelent (I prefer 285/75/16's) and driven sanely, the D30 will hold together just fine.
What year is your rig? For an SYE cost reference and additional Tech, check this site out. Tom is a local, as well as a U4 and NAXJA supporter and he knows his stuff. http://4xshaft.com/ Also note the Dec 10% off deal.

Also, drop by NAXJA for more XJ Tech, plenty of locals running XJ's that have been there, done that to provide feedback, lots of folks in the know here on RME as well.
We have a shop day coming up on Jan 22nd where folks with various XJ builds get together and help each other wrench on their rigs, installing everything from a new CB antenna to complete lift kits and just about everything in between.
Check us out http://www.naxja.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=72

 

[JoeT]

pm'd you.

 

[958mtm]

Ahhhh, It's like a giant burden has been lifted from my shoulders. JK I'm obviously going to have to do it to my XJ, What does it cost to add a SYE anyway?

I would say it would cost around $200, but i would also have it installed professionaly. More complicated than you would think. And eating bread and ramen for a few weeks is worth being confident it would be done right.

 

[XJEEPER]

Parts run $400-ish for a 231 t-case SYE including a new driveshaft, which can be installed by someone of reasonable mechanical ability.

Here's what you'll need for tools, if you possess the desire and skill set to DIY
Items you will need for installation:

Heavy Duty retaining ring pliers (or equivalent) They will need to be the type with the flat tabs to open up a "C" shaped snap ring and need to open to at least one inch.
Flat head screwdrivers to be used in separating the case.
Rubber Mallet
Hammer
Flat Chisel (make sure it is sharp)
Possibly a small three jaw puller and a length of threaded rod with nuts and flat washers assorted metric and standard sockets
10MM 12 point socket
Wire brush or Scotchbrite pad
RTV (silicon)
LocTite thread locker
De-greasing agent
Oil absorbent rags
Oil
Jack and jack stands

This kit can be installed with the NP231 transfer case installed in or out of the vehicle. We suggest removal of the transfer case with the 242 model transfer case.


.....$200 must be for the IFS crowd