ChestonScout installs some Axletechs and reworks the Scout for the umpteenth time

ChestonScout

opinions are like Jeeps..
Location
Clinton, Ut
It was a frustrating week.

First up was to bend up the new rear frame rail. I threw a piece of scrap ERW 2" and bent up a 90* to use as a template. Bent fine. So after taking my measurements I chocked up a full stick of DOM and went to bending. Did nothing different but the tube came out kinked?? WTF??
Small piece is the ERW





Not acceptable. Had a junk piece of tube so tried another piece. Same result. So....put another ERW in and it bent fine. So I figured my pile of DOM was junk. Before returning it figured Id better get some opinions. For the most part everyone agreed. Must be the material. Every bend I have ever made I have used WD40 to lube the follower blocks. Never had an issue. Skipped_Link suggested trying some grease. Worth a shot but I wasn't confident. Got some spray lithium grease and tried it. SUCCESS. For whatever reason the DOM was sticking to the aluminum hard enough that the tube slipped in the die causing it to kink. Lesson learned. Even if it took 3 days. SO.....finally got the rear frame bent up



I need to spend a day cleaning the garage. But its hard to want to clean when I have spare time. Just want to work
 

ChestonScout

opinions are like Jeeps..
Location
Clinton, Ut
Ive had an idea on how to tie the round tube into the stock square frame and incorporating the upper link mount at the same time. Time to see if it will will work.

First I coped the tube to fit the frame



Next a big ol nasty gusset with a 3/4" hole for the heim





simple plate on the inside and a plate to box the top.




I had forgotten how bad it sucks to make brackets by hand. Ive been spoiled by buying brackets burned out on a table that require little to no work. But Im pretty happy with how they turned out
 

ChestonScout

opinions are like Jeeps..
Location
Clinton, Ut
Just as well make some links if you have link brackets right?






Its hard to see in the pic but the uppers have a few degrees of triangulation. The lowers will be triangulated. Im trying to decide if I should just modify the original lower link mount or cut it off and start over. We will see
 

ChestonScout

opinions are like Jeeps..
Location
Clinton, Ut
Thanks for all the compliments!

Been awhile since an update and I have been able to get some stuff done.


I got the lower links and mounts built but I guess I forgot to get pics of those. Ill snap some next trip out. You will be able to see the lowers in some of the pics I do have


With the steering ram mount being installed on the front axle I wasn't able to push the front axle where it needs to sit. The mount is hitting the jackstands. With no body in the rear I was not able to relocate the front stands so decided tube work was up next. Some of the fun parts of working in a garage on jackstands

I have had a general idea of how I want the tube work but of course it has changed a couple times since I started. One thing I did want for sure double B pillars so that was where I started.

After removing most of the rest of the old tube work I used the old hoop to decide on a angle I liked



So after bending up the first hoop I cut one side to length. Of course the other side was the wrong angle to work on the chop saw. Found another use for the forklift sitting in the driveway



Tacked in





Bent the second to match



After that I wanted to line out what is planned for the rear cargo area. I will reuse the back seat and keep the radiator in the rear. I got a new fuel cell that will take up less room



After taking some measurements I bent up a tube to wrap around the back

 

ChestonScout

opinions are like Jeeps..
Location
Clinton, Ut
Test fit



The height of the wrap around tube just ended up to be the right height for some reason :D



Little rad protection



I want to keep the cage height as low as possible and still have a little headroom so after throwing the wife in the back seat (again) I bent up the rear down bars





little bastids

 

ChestonScout

opinions are like Jeeps..
Location
Clinton, Ut
I really contemplated keeping the original A pillars. As you can see them still in the pics. I finally decided to cut them out. Mainly because the passenger side had been repaired after a flop in the tank trap. I did trust the repair but........patch is always a patch. So...



This was going to require some careful grinding to get the new bars to fit well

So I bent up a bar but left it long so I could work on fitment



2 days of grinding and test fitting and grinding some more netted me this



It was a sad day cutting out my panels with my favorite stickers on them But I cut carefully so they at least can be hung in the garage. My Bridesmaid stickers were the coolest thing anyone has ever given me I think. They will be remade and reinstalled. Along with my TEAM AMERICA and my Hard Grass Havoc BADASS stickers.....Good times

Sure was nice to have something to look at again about this point



Next up was the brow bar




Havoc competition is requiring a metal roof now for tech. And I generally think its a good idea anyhow, So Im trying to make the cage as easy as possible to skin with some aluminum

So you can see the node of the brow bar is pretty well even with the top of the roof bars

 

ChestonScout

opinions are like Jeeps..
Location
Clinton, Ut
Next was door bars. I had this piece of tube that was the right length and after setting it in place I thought it was gonna look good. So I put a little kink in it and tacked it in



I didn't hate it.....But I didn't love it either. So I left it for the time being and worked on the rear fender bars. For a guy that hates grinding with a massive passion.....Im not sure why I did this to myself. But....



After them I still hadn't talked myself into the plain door bar so out came the tape and the wife for my next idea



You can see my bending protractor in the pic. Thing is an awesome tool to have for ghetto benders like myself.

She liked it and I thought I did to so....






MUCH better. And should help a little with entry/exit





So just as well make the drivers side match




That pretty well catches the thread up. Next up will be roof bars and then I may play with rear shock mounts. It would be nice to have the rear supported with shocks and springs before I start lifting the front end off the jackstands
 

ChestonScout

opinions are like Jeeps..
Location
Clinton, Ut
Tube is going away fast and I hardly have any scrap. Handfull of 3" pieces, That half stick I ruined figuring out my bender, and that plain door bar that I will be able to use most of.
.
I bought 7 sticks. I have 2 left. Looks like Im gonna use every inch and then some. I want to tube the floor area for good integrated seat mounts. Probably just buy some 1.75" for that
 

ChestonScout

opinions are like Jeeps..
Location
Clinton, Ut
I didn't want to get to crazy with the tube work on the back for a few reasons.

-I haven't bent much tube in the last 6 years and I wasn't that great before

-I didn't want the back end to not match the front end

-If tube is damaged and needs replaced Id like to make it doable

-Im lazy


Was really hoping some slight bends on single plane and a few angles would give it some character and not look to generic. I think Im winning so far
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
dang cheston, you've been BUSY!

Funny how a new set of axles leads to completely rebuilding your chassis. Looks great.
 
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