con-fer axle truss ????

Utahcryogenics

Formerly "Beerman"
Location
Murray
That thing is garbage.

If you want to truss your axle that is a really cheap and good idea.
It is really cheap insurance.

The best truss style is one that is made of bent tube, stick welded from one side over the top of the diff, and then welded onto the other side of the diff.
Driver to passenger sorta speak.

It has to be welded over the top of the diff also.

What that will basicly do to transfer energy across the medium evenly.
So if you are teetering (<---Tech term :p ) and come down hard on one side the stress will absorb evenly.

I will be doing this on my 8.8 as soon as I put the 37's on.

Read an article on Petersons titled "Axle truss truths" and you will know what I mean. It is one of the cheapest and smartest ideas you can do, spite what people say.

Another thing it prevents is your tubes from breaking the plug weld in the diff/meshing which of course leads to leaking quick.
That is a common thing on 8.8's. Dont know about you jeep guy's wimpy D35's -_- :eek: :D
 

Utahcryogenics

Formerly "Beerman"
Location
Murray
wort said:
yah, those are some sweet speed holes... :rolleyes:

Its for getting rid of added weight. I got an idea, lets take that steel tht was left over from making those "Speed holes" as you call them.
Then we will melt them into a ball and throw them at your face. The we will see if the added weight he took off that truss was enough to shut you up or not. :rofl:

I mean no harm by that statement. Just trying to be funny.
 
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Utahcryogenics

Formerly "Beerman"
Location
Murray
Oh and another thing. If the "Speed holes" are stamped out by a machine press then it adds strength to the truss.
It is simple metal work concept. Take for example Dick Cepek extended radius arms. You really think they press holes out of their arms for speed?
It is to lighten the arms, and add more structure and strength.

Oh and BTW that truss would be awesome for the front axle, but over kill for the rear. The best truss for the rear is tne bent and welded tube design i was speaking of earlier.
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
Beerman said:
Oh and another thing. If the "Speed holes" are stamped out by a machine press then it adds strength to the truss.
It is simple metal work concept. Take for example Dick Cepek extended radius arms. You really think they press holes out of their arms for speed?
It is to lighten the arms, and add more structure and strength.

Oh and BTW that truss would be awesome for the front axle, but over kill for the rear. The best truss for the rear is tne bent and welded tube design i was speaking of earlier.


well, not true...they can be hand cut or pressed out and the strength is the same...its the dimpling that gives them the strength...and that is generally done on a press...
 

Utahcryogenics

Formerly "Beerman"
Location
Murray
supergper said:
well, not true...they can be hand cut or pressed out and the strength is the same...its the dimpling that gives them the strength...and that is generally done on a press...

Well then how do you dimple a hand cut hole?

Last time I checked my plasma cutter didnt have a "dimple" settling.

Its like this.

Take 10 pounds of metal that takes up 2 sq feet.
Put that into a press and "press" that into 1 sq foot.

You still have 10 pounds of metal, but which do you think would break first if hit with a 30 pound sledge?

So pressing out a "speed hole" presses the area around the hole tighter, and then the excess metal/steel whatever in the middle is removed. Thus "dimpling" the truss's "Speed holes".

Make sense? I dont want to start a pissing match, just an observation.
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
Beerman said:
Well then how do you dimple a hand cut hole?

Last time I checked my plasma cutter didnt have a "dimple" settling.

Its like this.

Take 10 pounds of metal that takes up 2 sq feet.
Put that into a press and "press" that into 1 sq foot.

You still have 10 pounds of metal, but which do you think would break first if hit with a 30 pound sledge?

So pressing out a "speed hole" presses the area around the hole tighter, and then the excess metal/steel whatever in the middle is removed. Thus "dimpling" the truss's "Speed holes".

Make sense? I dont want to start a pissing match, just an observation.


I was trying to be nice about it but obviously you have no clue...you use a thing called a dimple die...all it does is give teh hole a flared shape making it stronger...they do not compress the steel into a smaller area like you described:rolleyes:...I will find some pics of dimple dies and how they work -_-
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
supergper said:
I was trying to be nice about it but obviously you have no clue...you use a thing called a dimple die...all it does is give teh hole a flared shape making it stronger...they do not compress the steel into a smaller area like you described:rolleyes:...I will find some pics of dimple dies and how they work -_-


ok, the middle pic is of some dimple dies, the other two are some examples of what dimple dies do.


the way you are describing would not save any weight, you are saying the metal is just displaced but is not removed...dimpling makes it so you can use thin material to save weight but yet still have the strength of much thicker material...

so what I am saying is no matter how the hole gets there it adds zero strength until it is dimpled...its a VERY simple metal working concept:rolleyes:
 

mattvw65

Active Member
Location
layton
James K said:
the middle pic is the best :suka:

Id like to get my hands on thoes dimple's ;)

I planed on cutting the "speed holes" with a hole saw or the plasma cutter. I started building it last night. one question for you all. I was told that in order to weld to the diff I had to get a high nickle rod. :confused: I orderd some today. is it hard to weld cast?

matt
 
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