- Location
- Richfield, UT.
Me and Yj_Auzzy did some splorin the following weekend. 
General Tech Cory's single seat selfish buggy
- Thread starter YROC FAB.
- Start date
- Location
- Richfield, UT.
Entertained the idea of a spare tire while repairing a damaged wheel of mine. Previous owner must of ran one with loose lug nuts and wollared the holes out.
- Location
- Richfield, UT.
Added some little SS eyebolts to the roof Austin gave me to bungie down crap.
Bald DDDD2 TSL vs bald DDDD2 Trep with same air pressure.
Bald DDDD2 TSL vs bald DDDD2 Trep with same air pressure.
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- Location
- Richfield, UT.
Bald 42" trep next to bald 40" trep. The 40" treps are vastly undersized. 
Test fit my buggy in my race trailer with my 4 runner. I pulled the valve cores in the front tires of the buggy and squished them into the front wall.
the runner is ran all the way into the buggy and im going to strap the door as closed as can. Hack? maybe. Safe? yes. Would you do it? lol. I need to build my new two seater.
Test fit my buggy in my race trailer with my 4 runner. I pulled the valve cores in the front tires of the buggy and squished them into the front wall.
the runner is ran all the way into the buggy and im going to strap the door as closed as can. Hack? maybe. Safe? yes. Would you do it? lol. I need to build my new two seater.
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Jinx
when in doubt, upgrade!
- Location
- So Jordan, Utah
How much room could you/would you gain if you were able to elevate the back end of the single seater?
Trying to think of other trailer stretching options...
Trying to think of other trailer stretching options...
How long is that trailer?
- Location
- Richfield, UT.
Considered it. Maybe 6 inches. We took the 4 runner bumper off on that picture. I'm building a front bumper for the 4 runner now so I may lift the buggy and flatten the runner tires and suck the winch down. I loaded them just to test if it would be reasonable to pull off.How much room could you/would you gain if you were able to elevate the back end of the single seater?
Trying to think of other trailer stretching options...
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- Location
- Richfield, UT.
24.5 ish feet. Its 24 on the flat side of the trailer but the front bubbles out. Both my buggys fit in there no problem but on them the tires stuck out front and rear.
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- Location
- Richfield, UT.
As good as we got it. 
- Location
- Richfield, UT.
You mean a turbo and a new engine. . . .
- Location
- Richfield, UT.
- Location
- Richfield, UT.
Knock knock. The ole 5.3 finally let go. I was not even surprised, it owed me nothing. Koh was a blast.
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- Location
- Richfield, UT.
Me and austin pulled it in after unloading it and dropped the pan. Rod#3 was really loose and the pan was full of glitter, it was also burning a ton of oil. It was nice that it still ran.
Alex came over Monday and we had the engine out in less then a couple hrs.
Not looking forward to the 10,000 zipties it going to take to tidy up this mess again.
Today i stripped the propriety parts off the old engine and installed them in the new engine. It was nice that i had a good 5.3 sitting in the garage for the new build. Ill simply pick up another one when the new build becomes more serious.
Alex came over Monday and we had the engine out in less then a couple hrs.
Not looking forward to the 10,000 zipties it going to take to tidy up this mess again.
Today i stripped the propriety parts off the old engine and installed them in the new engine. It was nice that i had a good 5.3 sitting in the garage for the new build. Ill simply pick up another one when the new build becomes more serious.
- Location
- Richfield, UT.
While swapping my parts over i noticed my GTO oil pan was cracked. To my surprise it hadn't weeped any oil out on the outside. It must be from a nut that holds my plastic skid plate to the steel plate and it may have flexed upward or a rock may have been wedged in there. Ill check the skid later and move the nut if thats it.
I figured this would be a good spot for some oil soaked cast aluminum repair tech.
Welding aluminum can be difficult enough for some even more so with cast aluminum and very hard to do with the common oil soaked cast aluminum. Most cast aluminums have some porosity which soaks up oils making it even harder to clean. After years of cast aluminum repairs i have found this technique to work the best for me.
First i try and get the surfaces as clean and oil free as i can with a wire wheel or a grinding wheel. In this case all i used was a wire wheel. The oil will soak into the crack and as soon as you light up with the tig it will be sucked out into the puddle you are trying to establish and ruin any chance you can of welding it. I will simply run several "Dry"(Not adding filler) passes over it with the tig and wire wheeling in between. Each time you run a dry pass the heat and cleaning action from the AC current will float the impurities to the top where the wire wheel can reach them.
This is the result of 4-5 dry passes. All the oil has been sucked out of the joint and aluminum is fusing together with each dry pass. Its okay that the cast is cracking as i have not added any filler to it yet and the pan is still getting a good pre heat going. After running several dry passes on both side of this weldment they will achieve full penetration without any grinding or beveling of the joint.
Out side of the pan after the first dry pass. After 3-4 passes i had it as bright and clean as the inside.
After they were nice and clean i laid in some 4043 filler. It has never let me down with aluminum castings.
I figured this would be a good spot for some oil soaked cast aluminum repair tech.
Welding aluminum can be difficult enough for some even more so with cast aluminum and very hard to do with the common oil soaked cast aluminum. Most cast aluminums have some porosity which soaks up oils making it even harder to clean. After years of cast aluminum repairs i have found this technique to work the best for me.
First i try and get the surfaces as clean and oil free as i can with a wire wheel or a grinding wheel. In this case all i used was a wire wheel. The oil will soak into the crack and as soon as you light up with the tig it will be sucked out into the puddle you are trying to establish and ruin any chance you can of welding it. I will simply run several "Dry"(Not adding filler) passes over it with the tig and wire wheeling in between. Each time you run a dry pass the heat and cleaning action from the AC current will float the impurities to the top where the wire wheel can reach them.
This is the result of 4-5 dry passes. All the oil has been sucked out of the joint and aluminum is fusing together with each dry pass. Its okay that the cast is cracking as i have not added any filler to it yet and the pan is still getting a good pre heat going. After running several dry passes on both side of this weldment they will achieve full penetration without any grinding or beveling of the joint.
Out side of the pan after the first dry pass. After 3-4 passes i had it as bright and clean as the inside.
After they were nice and clean i laid in some 4043 filler. It has never let me down with aluminum castings.
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- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Awesome tech, thanks for sharing!
- Location
- Richfield, UT.
- Location
- Richfield, UT.
Got the new heim spacers and wrench washers fabbed and welded on the high steer arms. I'm mounting this ram higher and closer to the axle. It's also a bigger 3x9 ram so I should be able to get all 42* out of my RCVs.
