D35 vs. D44

[waynehartwig]

35's are junk, and I wouldn't even consider it. 31's, no locker and you'll be fine. Start locking it up and going to bigger tires and your looking for trouble. Then they have a super 35 kit - you might as well go to Wendover and have fun blowing the $1,000... Because that's what you woudl be doing.

I have a locked D44 with 4.10 gears in my Rubicon and wheel it pretty hard. I had 35's and never a problem. I went to 37's and had nothing but problems, now I'm back down to 35's. So.... There is the cut off point!

Get a D44 or if you can't, get the 35 and save up for a D44 or 8.8 swap.

 

[I Lean]

You forgot the receeding hairline... :greg:

You've seen her.....er, him.......it too? He/she's famous!

Anyone know if he/she works there still? My wife and I had great fun on our second date making fun of that.

35's are junk, and I wouldn't even consider it. 31's, no locker and you'll be fine. Start locking it up and going to bigger tires and your looking for trouble. Then they have a super 35 kit - you might as well go to Wendover and have fun blowing the $1,000... Because that's what you woudl be doing.

I have a locked D44 with 4.10 gears in my Rubicon and wheel it pretty hard. I had 35's and never a problem. I went to 37's and had nothing but problems, now I'm back down to 35's. So.... There is the cut off point!

Get a D44 or if you can't, get the 35 and save up for a D44 or 8.8 swap.

How dare you bring this thread back on track?

 

[CRAZYCJ8]

easy solution

1. buy a TJ with a D44

2. I bought a factory housing from dealership for $400. put a supper 44(33 spline) kit in it and bolted in all for about $1400.00.

good luck

 

[waynehartwig]

How dare you bring this thread back on track?

Sorry... Just wanted to put my two cents in on the D44....

 

[RockMonkey]

2. I bought a factory housing from dealership for $400. put a supper 44(33 spline) kit in it and bolted in all for about $1400.00.

I'm getting my 44 for only the price of a built 60!

 

[CRAZYCJ8]

whats done is done, by the way break down that built 60 with new parts and a detroit, gears, cut down, TJ brackets all for $1400. I must be missing something, sure I can bone yard a FW 60, and spool it or link-lock it for cheap and through it under a YJ or CJ for that matter.

 

[RockMonkey]

whats done is done, by the way break down that built 60 with new parts and a detroit, gears, cut down, TJ brackets all for $1400. I must be missing something, sure I can bone yard a FW 60, and spool it or link-lock it for cheap and through it under a YJ or CJ for that matter.

My post was not meant as an editorial on the price you paid for your 44. Literally, I'm going to build a rear 60 and then trade it for a built TJ 44. Stupid, huh? :-\

 

[Crinco]

I am sure your dad meant well, but DO NOT waste your time or money on a Jeep with a Dana 35 in it. My friend broke one pulling in his driveway! Well he broke it somewhere else (on road) and it let go in his driveway. The Dana 35 on its best day is not worth the scrap steel you could melt it down for. Hold out, keep looking for a Dana 44.
Keep in mind that most people start with 35" tires, no lockers, no extras (weight) like a winch, and then start to add those things, then bigger tires, then more power, then drive on harder and harder trails, all the while that Dana 35 was breaking back when your jeep had 35" tires and nothing else.
If you ever plan to wheel the Jeep at all, Dana 60 rears are REALLY cheap and with the right rims not much wider than stock. Put one in the back and never worry about it again until you go bigger than 42" tires.
If you do pick up a good Jeep and it has the 35 under it, drive it carefully and know it will fail you at the time of its choosing.
Let the flaming begin, but remember, I'm right!

 

[Devel]

so i just purchased a 2002 jeep wrangler x. it has the dana 35 rear but it has custom front bumper and rock sliders. im running 33x12.50 MTR's and so far its holding out. ive been discussing with my dad wat rear end we should put in it an so far we are thinking either a Dana 60, Ford 9in, or a unimog. feed back would be nice on what everyone thinks:greg:

 

[wipedawg]

so i just purchased a 2002 jeep wrangler x. it has the dana 35 rear but it has custom front bumper and rock sliders. im running 33x12.50 MTR's and so far its holding out. ive been discussing with my dad wat rear end we should put in it an so far we are thinking either a Dana 60, Ford 9in, or a unimog. feed back would be nice on what everyone thinks:greg:

If you dont ever plan goin bigger than 37's... you could run a ford 8.8 out of an 96+ explorer. That way you'd get discbrakes as well, which is something very useful with bigger tires. Plenty of people on the other forums run a stock 8.8 with 4.88's locked on 37's with no issues. They are 31 spline axles as well.

 

[waynehartwig]

That way you'd get discbrakes as well, which is something very useful with bigger tires.

Drum brakes are more efficient and will stop better than a disc. Disc is better because it cools much faster and works a whole lot better when wet. Which may be what you were trying to say in your statement, but as your statement reads, is incorrect.

 

[mbryson]

If you dont ever plan goin bigger than 37's... you could run a ford 8.8 out of an 96+ explorer. That way you'd get discbrakes as well, which is something very useful with bigger tires. Plenty of people on the other forums run a stock 8.8 with 4.88's locked on 37's with no issues. They are 31 spline axles as well.

I just don't understand why people don't get a TJ D44 for a TJ (or maybe a ZJ). To put the coil buckets and brackets on an 8.8 just doesn't seem cost effective to me. The argument changes pretty significantly for an XJ when all you're doing is welding spring pads on, but unless you can do the 4 link brackets yourself, I'd stick to the bolt-in stuff (TJ D44) or buy a 60 or 9". (I'd do the 60, personally. You'll be about the same cash either way and you'll NEVER worry about the 60 while you would worry about the c-clips in the 8.8.)

 

[waynehartwig]

I just don't understand why people don't get a TJ D44 for a TJ (or maybe a ZJ). To put the coil buckets and brackets on an 8.8 just doesn't seem cost effective to me. The argument changes pretty significantly for an XJ when all you're doing is welding spring pads on, but unless you can do the 4 link brackets yourself, I'd stick to the bolt-in stuff (TJ D44) or buy a 60 or 9". (I'd do the 60, personally. You'll be about the same cash either way and you'll NEVER worry about the 60 while you would worry about the c-clips in the 8.8.)

True... But for the c clips to become an issue, you would have to break one of the axles. The disc brakes will also keep the axle in if it does break. You can also turn it into a semi float axle and then it's just as strong as a D60 and stronger than a D44. It's actually a closer matched axle for a TJ or XJ than a D60. All of the D60's out of yards are too wide and wrong bolt pattern. Granted, that can all be fixed, but they are more intensive to install than a 8.8. Especially from a noobies perspective.

 

[mbryson]

......The disc brakes will also keep the axle in if it does break.

I can't imagine that being much longer (if any) than a side plate on a D44. I.E. DON'T run very far on a broken semi-float axle. It's not like you can drive out 30-100 miles like it's a full-float. In my opinion, either one (the TJ D44 or the 8.8) will allow you to get off an obstacle and get it fixed rather than having to fix it before you can even move off the obstacle (ala D35 with drums that 'walks' out as you move forward). That's about all either design gets you. If you want to drive out with a broken axle, full float is the only way to go.

You can also turn it into a semi float axle and then it's just as strong as a D60 and stronger than a D44.

MORE $$$ If that kind of thing is an issue, why not start with something originally designed for those kinds of loads that you don't have to upgrade?

It's actually a closer matched axle for a TJ or XJ than a D60.

OK, but the TJ will be MUCH more to put it under than an XJ. Any bucket with a welder can weld spring pads on an axle for an XJ (even me). Putting 4 link brackets, coil buckets and associated hardware on correctly needs to be done pretty precisely. IMHO, the 8.8 is not a bad option for an XJ or maybe a mild YJ, but loses it's value as you move to a rear coil spring setup and associated setup costs.

All of the D60's out of yards are too wide and wrong bolt pattern. Granted, that can all be fixed, but they are more intensive to install than a 8.8. Especially from a noobies perspective.

I think the TJ D44 is the way to go. The bracketry is a prohibitive expense to a 'noobie', IMHO, and if you're paying to have it done, I'd do it to something you'll NEVER regret having. {again, speaking for my Visa card}

Your matching D30 is going to be a HUGE weak point with that big of tires (weren't these 37" tires we're talking about?) if you're driving on any kind of trail that requires them. Why not change both axles at once and be done instead of dump money into 'fixing' a set of marginal axles for 35" tires? I'd run the TJ D30/D44 with 35" tires and carry a spare rear axle and spare set of fronts.

I'm sure we can agree to disagree here. I get tired of seeing the 8.8 plugged as the 'silver bullet' axle. It's an OK upgrade in some cases, but if you're having someone else put it in for you in a TJ, you might want to think of some other options and how you plan to use your TJ over the long term. I only like to spend money once.

 

[Tacoma]

I only like to spend money once.

That right there is the main thing to get out of ALL these posts. Build for the upper limit of what you can imagine doing, if you can at all get the money to do so.
That thinking is what got me to Rockwell's.

 

[waynehartwig]

I can't imagine that being much longer (if any) than a side plate on a D44. I.E. DON'T run very far on a broken semi-float axle. It's not like you can drive out 30-100 miles like it's a full-float. In my opinion, either one (the TJ D44 or the 8.8) will allow you to get off an obstacle and get it fixed rather than having to fix it before you can even move off the obstacle (ala D35 with drums that 'walks' out as you move forward). That's about all either design gets you. If you want to drive out with a broken axle, full float is the only way to go.




MORE $$$ If that kind of thing is an issue, why not start with something originally designed for those kinds of loads that you don't have to upgrade?




OK, but the TJ will be MUCH more to put it under than an XJ. Any bucket with a welder can weld spring pads on an axle for an XJ (even me). Putting 4 link brackets, coil buckets and associated hardware on correctly needs to be done pretty precisely. IMHO, the 8.8 is not a bad option for an XJ or maybe a mild YJ, but loses it's value as you move to a rear coil spring setup and associated setup costs.




I think the TJ D44 is the way to go. The bracketry is a prohibitive expense to a 'noobie', IMHO, and if you're paying to have it done, I'd do it to something you'll NEVER regret having. {again, speaking for my Visa card}

Your matching D30 is going to be a HUGE weak point with that big of tires (weren't these 37" tires we're talking about?) if you're driving on any kind of trail that requires them. Why not change both axles at once and be done instead of dump money into 'fixing' a set of marginal axles for 35" tires? I'd run the TJ D30/D44 with 35" tires and carry a spare rear axle and spare set of fronts.

I'm sure we can agree to disagree here. I get tired of seeing the 8.8 plugged as the 'silver bullet' axle. It's an OK upgrade in some cases, but if you're having someone else put it in for you in a TJ, you might want to think of some other options and how you plan to use your TJ over the long term. I only like to spend money once.

I'm not disagreeing... I completely agree that for the cost, a D60 is better - to a point. But an 8.8 is much better than a D35. And for a weekend warrior, an 8.8 is perfect. Almost all of the 8.8 swaps that I have done have been LSD 4.10's. Only a few have had lockers and larger gears. Point being, most of these are going in daily drivers that do frequent trails, and don't have the knowledge to do a D60 swap (or 8.8 for that matter). Remember, most of these people have 33 or 35" tires, as it is still a DD.

As well, a Ford 9" is a bad choice for larger than 35" tires......IMHO a Ford 8.8 would hold up better. The 9" housing is weaker than a 8.8 housing. Granted, you can buy a beefier housing, but then why not just go up to a D60.

 

[Milner]

You can also turn it into a semi float axle and then it's just as strong as a D60 and stronger than a D44.

Hmmmmm, last I checked a 8.8 was a semi float?

 

[Milner]

As well, a Ford 9" is a bad choice for larger than 35" tires......IMHO a Ford 8.8 would hold up better. The 9" housing is weaker than a 8.8 housing. Granted, you can buy a beefier housing, but then why not just go up to a D60.

What???? Sorry I will STRONGLY have to disagree with you here an 8.8 is no where near as strong as a 9". It seem rediculous to even have to debate this.
I ran 35's on a 28 spline 9" for years. I only had problems with running 37's in comps! Now it is a 35sp 9" with 38's, and I beat it HARD with no issue. I have broke 31 spline 9" shafts in the past too, I can tell you an 8.8 will not hold up to that kind of flogging. Youcan build a HD 8.8, but it uses 9" shafts and semi-float bearings/pockets and to do 35 spline must run a spool. (they only reason to do so is to retain the ABS sensor)
Edit....how do you figure a 9" housing is weaker? Some prior to 1970 may be thinner tubed. But even most of the later car 9's are hd housings....

I will agree that a 9" is a poor choice for a TJ, but due to pinion angle not stregth. the pinion is very low and with a lifted TJ there will be driveline problems. Currie's HP 9" is not a good option either. It uses the 8.8 frt ring and pinion from the Ford IFS frt. It has proven to be weak in a rear application. (rev cut in the rear drives on the coast side of the gear) Tru-Hi 9 would be a graet option but the cost is high....

As for the choices for this particular jeep, a standard 44 or rev 60 if it is going tall would be my suggestion. For a person with limited knowledge of ablity a TJ 44 is simplest, or a 44 or a 60 built buy a profressional with all brackets installed so it can bolt in.

I have watched MANY people try to build JY axles to save $$$$. Allmost always they spend more than if they just had one built! There are a handful of people that can do it them selves for cheaper, but that requires being able to barrow specialized tools and a good knowledge of what you are doing!

JMHO

Edit: Just wanted to add that the mog is not a very good option for a stockish tj....the axle alone will add 6 of so inches of lift. There will also be problems with making the brackets fit up correctly and the diff will have interference issues with the gas tank. Not to mention the long pinion/pinion conversion need for a mog axle. Also most you can find are older drum brake axles that need rebuilding. As well the wheel cylinders in the mog are to large to use with the stock tj master cylinder. You would need to convert to disk and that is $$$$ for a mog.

 

[mbryson]

I'm not disagreeing... I completely agree that for the cost, a D60 is better - to a point. But an 8.8 is much better than a D35. And for a weekend warrior, an 8.8 is perfect. Almost all of the 8.8 swaps that I have done have been LSD 4.10's. Only a few have had lockers and larger gears. Point being, most of these are going in daily drivers that do frequent trails, and don't have the knowledge to do a D60 swap (or 8.8 for that matter). Remember, most of these people have 33 or 35" tires, as it is still a DD.

Then why not find a bolt-in source, ala TJ D44?

As well, a Ford 9" is a bad choice for larger than 35" tires......IMHO a Ford 8.8 would hold up better. The 9" housing is weaker than a 8.8 housing. Granted, you can buy a beefier housing, but then why not just go up to a D60.

That's funny. The ONLY bad thing about a 9" is the low pinion. The rest is BAD @SS and very upgradeable if you NEED to. TONS of aftermarket support. It's the small block Chev of the axle world. ....and you always hear about those pile 'o' crap early Bronco rear axles {kinda like the D35 reputation}

 

[Hickey]

OKay kids, let me clear this up.
The 8.8 is okay.
I would never put an 8.8 in a TJ.
The 8.8 is okay.
I would never put an 8.8 in a XJ.
The 8.8 is okay.
I would never put it in anything.

Hickey wouldn't do it, and you ought not either.