Dana 20 Vs Dana 300

redrussell

Active Member
I want other people to weigh in. I have used and abused my dana 20 without fail or a hiccup from it. I am planning to put fresh V8 power to it instead of the tired stock v8 is has now as well as a lower geared trans. I have both a Dana 300 and 2 dana 20s. I have looked at the tera 4:1 kit. I want to know what other people have done and what their pros and cons are about both cases.
 

Toad

Well-Known Member
Location
Millville(logan)
I have no experience with the Dana 20. I am running a 300 with the the Tera 4:1 kit in it. I am sure you know that the outputs are the weak link for the 300. By the time you spend the money for a rebuild kit for the 300, Tera 4:1, and heavy duty outputs the price is the almost the same as a Atlas. I got a screaming deal on my 300(free). If I would have had paid my hard earned money for it I would have bought a Atlas.
 

redrussell

Active Member
I got my 300 for free from a guy I bought some other jeep parts from. His son totaled his CJ and the guy was so mad he was just clearing out the garage and getting rid of everything. I paid $100 for a pair of wide track axles for the CJ, Dana 300, 304 parts, 2 spot lights, T-18(Sold it for $175 next day), and a bunch of other little parts.
 

flexyfool

GDW
Location
Boise, Idaho
The low kit for the 20 is only 3.15:1. Strength is the same. The 300 shifts better and is quieter. It is easier to adapt to other transmissions. By the time you put in 4:1, stronger rear output, and twin sticks, a 300 will still be about $1000 less than an Atlas.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Both are decent t-cases, That being said: I've seen and I've broken both.
The 300 has some distinct disadvantages.

The first is glaringly obvious.
#1 Dana wouldn't have discontinued the dana 20 if the dana 300 wasn't a better design. Common sense dictates that Dana learned a lot from the Dana 18 and 20 and used that knowledge to build the 300. Many argue that Dana build quality and materials engineering greatly improved from 1962 (when the Dana 20 was released) to 1977 (when the Dana 300 was released). Frankly the quality of material throughout the case is just better.

#2 Helically cut rear gears in the 300 vs straight in the 20. Quieter and shifting the rear output in and out while under any drive-train bind is much better with helical cut gear sets. (Yes one could argue helically cut gears put more side load on the case than spur cut gears, but the case is stronger and the ability to shift without rocking back and forth to un-bind the drivetrain is hugely valuable offroad.

#3 Gear ratio. Stock 2.62:1 in the Jeep Dana 300. 2.03:1 in the Dana 20. Aftermarket: 4:1 in the 300, 3.15:1 in the Dana 20. To me, crawling, this is a no brainer.
2.0:1 is useless in almost anything but sand.
 

redrussell

Active Member
The low kit for the 20 is only 3.15:1. Strength is the same. The 300 shifts better and is quieter. It is easier to adapt to other transmissions. By the time you put in 4:1, stronger rear output, and twin sticks, a 300 will still be about $1000 less than an Atlas.

Ok so I'm not an experienced crawler, What is the advantage of a twin stick setup?
 

mesha

By endurance we conquer
Location
A.F.
Ok so I'm not an experienced crawler, What is the advantage of a twin stick setup?

Twin stick allows you to use hi and low in 4 or 2 wheel drive. If you have the right twin stick you can also use front and rear drive independently. Front and rear digs are the coolest.
 

redrussell

Active Member
Ok I guess I really left it open for that, I understand that it allows for front and rear output manipulation. What sort of situations would that be neededfor though? I guess I pretty much need to ride along on a few trails and just pay attention to someone else driving.
 

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
Rear wheel drive in low range on a trail is nice when the front drive isn't needed save wear and tear.
 
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