I am thinking of doing a high steer setup on the front of my YJ (I hate putting money into that damn Dana 30, but I have to make it work until I can afford a 60). I already have spring over done, and it looks like either the springs would be in the way or else the bottom of my steering pump. Has anyone thrown their money away by doing a high steer on their Dana 30? Looking for insights before I throw my money away as well.
Dana 30 High Steer
- Thread starter 1993yj
- Start date
Pretty sure that puts the drag link into the passenger side spring. I haven't used em, but BTF makes a bracket to bolt onto the knuckle and move the drag link up high, and I believe M.O.R.E. does as well. Might be some options....
Here's the BTF one. $149, but it requires you to use heim joints for both the tie rod and drag link.....http://www.bluetorchfab.com/oscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=146_147&products_id=574
Just looked at the MORE one, it also requires the use of heim joints. Looks like you're stuck with that unless you build your own....
Just looked at the MORE one, it also requires the use of heim joints. Looks like you're stuck with that unless you build your own....
Badger
I am the Brute squad
- Location
- South Salt Lake
talk to bonedown on this bored i know he has just done it and can tell you what needs to be on the cheap to make it work
That would put the tie-rod right through my springs, otherwise it would be very easy and cheap.
I have looked at the M.O.R.E. one, and that is an option I may take, but I was wondering if someone had fabbed something on their own that was cheap.
I also saw this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200055213081&fromMakeTrack=true
Thanks for the info. I will shoot him a PM and see.
Badger
I am the Brute squad
- Location
- South Salt Lake
i wouldn't get that E-bay crap its only using 2 out of the 3 unit bearing bolts being used.the more kit as well as other lock into all 3 as well as the only factory lower knuckle for as much strength as you can.
this kit comes with everything
ORO U-Turn
if i were to do anything it would be the MORE kit.Stage Two its a bit pricey but you also have to add in you are getting a corrected track bar system as well.I know bump steer isn't that bad with the front track bar out but if you can have a corrected one that doesn't hamper flex why not.
sorry about image quality i blew up the pics from their site
this kit comes with everything
ORO U-Turn
if i were to do anything it would be the MORE kit.Stage Two its a bit pricey but you also have to add in you are getting a corrected track bar system as well.I know bump steer isn't that bad with the front track bar out but if you can have a corrected one that doesn't hamper flex why not.
sorry about image quality i blew up the pics from their site
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Zombie
Random Dead Guy
- Location
- Sandy Utah
I'm sure it's not cheap, but take a look at this:
http://www.teraflex.biz/productImages/990.jpg
I've thought about it, but since I don't have anything in the way, I'm not going to throw money at the 30 and pray to the rock gods to spare the turd that hides under my jeep.
http://www.teraflex.biz/productImages/990.jpg
I've thought about it, but since I don't have anything in the way, I'm not going to throw money at the 30 and pray to the rock gods to spare the turd that hides under my jeep.
I have looked at the terraflex one before, but not going to pay $300 for a knuckle. Plus, this way I dont have to deal with anyone over there.
The only thing I really liked about that eBay one was that it put the tie-rod above the springs as well. I will most likely get the stage 1 kit from M.O.R.E. since I havent been running a track bar for years and I already have a drop pitman. The only thing that kit really buys me clearance wise though is flipping the tie-rod to the top of the factory location, by using those 1/2" block spacers.
And do you think I will have a hard time passing inspection with rod ends on my steering? Is that even an issue here in Utah? My jeep hardly ever sees pavement, mostly just a trailer, but it is nice to have it registered at times.
The only thing I really liked about that eBay one was that it put the tie-rod above the springs as well. I will most likely get the stage 1 kit from M.O.R.E. since I havent been running a track bar for years and I already have a drop pitman. The only thing that kit really buys me clearance wise though is flipping the tie-rod to the top of the factory location, by using those 1/2" block spacers.
And do you think I will have a hard time passing inspection with rod ends on my steering? Is that even an issue here in Utah? My jeep hardly ever sees pavement, mostly just a trailer, but it is nice to have it registered at times.
Take a look at this setup. I read on a different board that guys use this as a daily driver and never have problems with it.
http://www.jb4x4.com/products.htm
http://www.jb4x4.com/products.htm
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Zombie
Random Dead Guy
- Location
- Sandy Utah
In further thought, I remember my buddy who works for a mopar parts store telling me aobut a guy who did high steer on a ZJ by ordering a european right hand drive steering knuckle or something.... might be worth investigating, but I'd bet the Tera knuckle is cheaper. Chrysler tends to be very proud of their parts.
What about a WJ knuckle swap? Here's a link from JeepsUnlimited talking about it along with tons of links to other write-ups, and here's a link to a complete WJ D30 for sale on our board. Not only will you get high steer, but much beefier brakes and better tie rod/drag link.
Devin
Devin
my way was not cheap sorry, I am not of help on this.
D44 axle swap
D44 dual flat top knuckles $100
D44 knuckles machined $50
Part Mike super arm $259 Kit. (Includes L&R arm and mounting hardware)
one ton TRE's $105 (for all four of them).
custom drag link (dom) $130
custom tie rod (dom) $140
new re-tapered stock pitman (zero drop) $45
Total $829
Not having to worry about this busting in the mall parking lot Priceless.
D44 axle swap
D44 dual flat top knuckles $100
D44 knuckles machined $50
Part Mike super arm $259 Kit. (Includes L&R arm and mounting hardware)
one ton TRE's $105 (for all four of them).
custom drag link (dom) $130
custom tie rod (dom) $140
new re-tapered stock pitman (zero drop) $45
Total $829
Not having to worry about this busting in the mall parking lot Priceless.
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Thanks for the link. I saw that too. If it were that easy I would just re-drill and tap the knuckle and flip the tie-rod myself. However this setup will not work with a spring over like I have
Thanks Devin. This may be just what I was looking for. My brother is in the process of of putting 44's under his 95 Grand, so I will take a look at his steering from his old axle. If it looks like it will work, then this will definately fit my needs of cheap. Plus better brakes.
I think that I will still need to do a 1/2" block though to move my springs out of the way no matter what route I take. They all just flip the tie-rod to the top of the knuckle, right where my springs are located.
Okay, so after doing some more research, I think it would actually be more expensive to go the WJ route, since the bolt pattern is 5 on 5 rather than the weak 5 on 4.5 that I have. I like the idea of the bigger brakes and stronger steering, but having to get a TJ hub machined down doesnt sound like it will be sticking to my cheap concept. I figure whatever money I save by making my 30 work longer can go towards the 60 fund.
The M.O.R.E. kit still seems the best choice, but I really appreciate all of the other insights.
The M.O.R.E. kit still seems the best choice, but I really appreciate all of the other insights.
dbdproductions
Registered User
- Location
- Salt Lake
Wj Knuckle Swap
There are spacers available from jks that will allow the swap without machining down the TJ Hub. http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/jksfabparts.html
Then all you do is redrill the rotors with a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. Please correct me if any of this is wrong. I may try and do this on my XJ. By the way I'm the one selling the WJ dana 30. Having the high steer has been nice, but to do the conversion for better brakes is a waste of money. Anyone who owns a WJ should be able to tell you that the brakes suck!!! ( The rotors are infamous for warping.)
There are spacers available from jks that will allow the swap without machining down the TJ Hub. http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/jksfabparts.html
Then all you do is redrill the rotors with a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. Please correct me if any of this is wrong. I may try and do this on my XJ. By the way I'm the one selling the WJ dana 30. Having the high steer has been nice, but to do the conversion for better brakes is a waste of money. Anyone who owns a WJ should be able to tell you that the brakes suck!!! ( The rotors are infamous for warping.)