- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Hickey said:Yours will do it just fine.
I hope so... just curious.
I got to use a Dual Shield on the first axle I narrowed. :greg:
Hickey said:Yours will do it just fine.
If you are worried about it, you can bring it over here. In fact, I will even help you narrow it. Shouldn't take very long if you already have it taken apart. I have Saturdays, Sunday's and Wednesday's off now.Greg said:I hope so... just curious.
I got to use a Dual Shield on the first axle I narrowed. :greg:
Hickey said:If you are worried about it, you can bring it over here. In fact, I will even help you narrow it. Shouldn't take very long if you already have it taken apart. I have Saturdays, Sunday's and Wednesday's off now.
It's not like I have a project in my garage or anything...Greg said:'Preciate the offer... I'm going to try do it myself. If I decide not to, I'll let you know.
Greg said:Did you weld it? Multiple passes? What welder did you use? Settings?
James K said:yes, just last thursday.
two passes and it turned out great.
I used my 220 lincoln...on D and 5
its 5.5" shorter then a stock chevy long side shaft, so whatever that is.Not to reserect an old thread, but I'm going to do the same thing to my D60 front... What size of axle did you end up with after narrowing? 30-31"?
its 5.5" shorter then a stock chevy long side shaft, so whatever that is.
Did you have to get a new axle made? I'm trying to make it ~64" without going with a custom made shaft.
a local shop cut and resplined mine for 85 dollars, then i sent the shaft out to be cryoed ( frozen ) for added strength, jason.
What is your WMS after cutting off 4.5"? Are you still running a complete F350 axle, or did you hybrid it with GM (or other model) stuff?
................. or did you hybrid it with GM (or other model) stuff?................
The GM/Dodge bearing hubs are a little more expensive to purchase than the Ford units. The Ford units share with the TTB 50 front, so there are lots of trucks out there with spare parts. If I had a Ford 60, I'd stick to the Ford stuff until I broke it, but that's just me.
if you look at the " welding to a housing" thread you can see some pictures of what i did to beef up the stock ford knuckles, the extra plating i did will help where the high steer arms bolt to the KP's. yes the ford TTb stuff is the same so if you can get DRW ford you can swap these very commen hubs. i was luky i got the ford SRW with 4.10's gears at the junkyard for 75.00 dollars, i love the old timer junkyard guys. there not conected to the computer and dont realy care if the sell the axle or not, its all scrap to them, jason.
What would be the advantage of switching to the TTB50 stuff? Or are you saying they are the identical part to use if I can't find a KP D60, kind of thing?
no no, what mbryson and i are saying is the ford TTB 50 shares the same spindle hubs ( and i think the same brake hardware ) and locking hubs, i dont think the stub is the same u-joint ( 1480 dana 60 VS 1410 for ttb50 i think ) size but it is the same 30 spline shaft, so the locking hubs are the same. so what i was saying is if you found a smoking deal on a FORD DRW 60, grab it and swap the FORD SRW TTB50 spindle hubs onto it. now this only works on a ford, the chevy and dodge the SRW and DRW spindle hubs are 5/8 longer than the ford, why i dont know its a ford thing "i dont understand it".
this is why you see chevy SRW hubs going for 250.00 to 300.00 dollars a set and that's a used set. you cant swap chevy's onto ford's few reasions, the ford spindles are a 5 bolt pattern and the chevy is a 6 bolt pattern, the chevys are 5/8'' longer then the fords, slide over to pirate and check out the dana 60bible, all the info you need is there, jason.