Dans Buggy build

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
In contrast to the last two rear-radiator guys, I never had one minute of trouble with my rear-radiator setup, after I got the initial quirks worked out. I did have a ridicu-huge radiator though, so I'm certain that makes a big difference.

Marking the tubes isn't a bad idea at all.
 

notajeep

Just me
Location
Logan
I think that I will use some high temp type paint to mark "HOT" on the tubes going back for the coolant.
Anyway.
I ordered this about 10 days ago. It was a little slower coming than I wanted, but I have to say that I am very impressed with the initial quality of this peice.
I has a winch controller, a start button and 8 other switches, with LED's, and all of it with fuses up front and water proof. :cool:
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suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
I've heard of guys having problems with air flow at speed due to the vacuum effect in crawlers however, in looking at some desert race buggys with rear rad I see that they use 2 air scoops on either side ducted to the rad with the fan inside the duct work. (right before the rad)
I don't know what cfm fans they use but it's a 2 fan set up

don't know if you have the room for this though...

also many rear radiators don't work properly cause there isn't enough coolant flowing thru them due to the plumbing/gravity resistance, so make sure where you mount your radiator isn't too much higher than your motor you don't want to be pumping coolant "up hill"
also an in line pump at the rad can as much as double your flow... just more$$
 

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
heres a pic, looks like this one uses one large scoop but you get the idea
 

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I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
A lot of desert trucks also have the radiators mounted directly behind where the rear window of the "cab" would be, and with no windshield get airflow right through there. That's quite a bit higher than most 'crawlers have them mounted.
 

notajeep

Just me
Location
Logan
A lot of desert trucks also have the radiators mounted directly behind where the rear window of the "cab" would be, and with no windshield get airflow right through there. That's quite a bit higher than most 'crawlers have them mounted.

This is more like what I am looking at.
 

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
yeah, they're definatly way up there but, I'm also pretty sure they use special high flow pumps.
with the right pump you could mount it as high as you want and still get the nessesary flow, I just don't know how much the stock pump will accomidate.
I guess the thing to do is run it and see what works for you.
You can always add an auxiliary pump (sureflo makes some of these), or high flow electric 'vet type pump if your not getting the flow you need.
 

notajeep

Just me
Location
Logan
Atlas woes

The atlas came in yesterday.:hickey: I brought it home to install in the buggy.
But first here is some background.
I am running a sm465 tranny with a 10 spline output. The adapter that I needed for the atlas was the sm465 to dana 300. So I got that a few weeks ago. It bolted up great and came with a spud shaftf that had a 10 spline female end for the tranny and a 23 spline male end of the dana 300 (atlas). No worries right?
So I ordered the atlas with the 23 spline input from Mt Logan (from whom I had also bought the adapter) It came exactly as ordered, so I rushed home to install and the spud shaft was too deep to engage the input splines on the atlas and I notice that even if it did engage, having the spud shaft there would not allow them to be bolted togeather.
Soooo.....
I should have ordered the atlas with a 10 spline input, not the 23. I have the right adapter, but just didn't need to use the spud shaft. I want to be pissed at Mt Logan over this, but I told them the 23 spline. I had the adapter with that, so why would I need anything different, right? But for $2000+ I would have hoped that they would pay closer attention to what was going on. But then again, so should I. I would like to think that they assumed the same as I did.

Anyway, Monday I will order the 10 spline input from AA on monday and see if Mt Logan will install it for me.
But here is a pic.
 

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notajeep

Just me
Location
Logan
Got these finished up today. Big thanks to Mike at 6 states. 1410 u joints at each end.
However, if I had known how much more $$$$ the 1410 yokes were... maybe I would have done 1350.
 

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Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
no kidding!

So much for 'thikning' about doing 1410's.... And here I'm complaining about ~$200 for 1350 parts.

I was talking to my driveline shop, and I think they convinced me 1350 was the way to go with the money also. Plus clearence will suck with those huge yokes and tubes
 

Meat_

Banned
Location
Lehi
no kidding!

So much for 'thikning' about doing 1410's.... And here I'm complaining about ~$200 for 1350 parts.

I'm pretty sure that was the price for both complete drivelines ;)

I'm going at least partially 1350 because the slip yokes I want to use don't come in 1410 and because the CV that I'm using is 1350.... pretty much only leaves room for a 1410 on the 14b
 

notajeep

Just me
Location
Logan
Clearance is looking like it will be fine. No problem at all in the rear, the front is pretty close to the lower link, but looks like it will clear just fine. On the front the smallest tube they could use was 2.5 od. The rear is 3.5 id I think... or maybe just 3. I'm not sure.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
I'm pretty sure that was the price for both complete drivelines ;)

I'm going at least partially 1350 because the slip yokes I want to use don't come in 1410 and because the CV that I'm using is 1350.... pretty much only leaves room for a 1410 on the 14b

That's true.. but they aren't CV either. That's another $300 at least, for the two.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
I was talking to my driveline shop, and I think they convinced me 1350 was the way to go with the money also. Plus clearence will suck with those huge yokes and tubes

The swing diameter on a 1410 is 4.68 and 1350 is either 4.68 or 4.25", depending. So worst case, the 1350 is only .4" smaller than a 1410 (.2" each side).

1410 can have as small as 2.5" OD tubing.

1350 versus 1410 pinion yoke is $20 more.

So I don't think size should matter, but cost does.
 
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