EcoBoost
- Thread starter rholbrook
- Start date
Personally, no. Even though it rates that. I'd probably do max 10k and not often (wear and tear reason mostly)
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
The 12k max tow capability is actually only for very specific EB models. Typically single-cab 2wd F-150's are the only models that carry that high of a tow rating.
You might be right, but the marketing material for my 2016 says this:
From here:
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Yup, they're kinda sneaky about the ratings. Notice the (1) next to the 12,200 max. You have to reference the chart below to find where your specific truck is actually rated.You might be right, but the marketing material for my 2016 says this:
View attachment 135827
From here:
haulinshine
Active Member
that if you look at an F250 powerstroke vs an F250 gas engine the only difference is the engine. The same with the 350 the 450 and the 550. each only changes the engine, an F250 and F350 have different rear axles and springs then you get into the big boys that have more changes from their smaller siblings
Edit, the F250 with the 6.2 is still a 6 speed not the new 10 speed, you would need the 7.3 to have the 10 speed in an F250 gas motor.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Looks VERY similar to our 2015 Navigator
. My wife loves that car. It does do the hustle pretty well when needed. Congrats!!!!
- Location
- The Village of Kay
We rented a suburban and an ecoboost Expedition in College Station TX a couple of years ago. The Expedition smoked the Chev in a drag race. It was fun times! You'll love that truck!
So I am just learning about the EB. I have read some stuff about the 1st gen, which I have, getting build up on the intake. Recommendations have been to use premium fuel, synthetic oil, and oil catch cans. Any thoughts from the all knowing RME group?
Are there things we should or should not be doing with this motor??
Are there things we should or should not be doing with this motor??
Not sure how premium fuel would help keep the intake clean. I guess a good synthetic oil probably would be less likely to gum up after recirculating through PCV
Heard of a lot of people running the catch cans. Also fogging the intake with sea foam intake cleaner regularly seems to be popular.
Heard of a lot of people running the catch cans. Also fogging the intake with sea foam intake cleaner regularly seems to be popular.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
We just do recommended service on ours. Run dishwater gas.
Pike2350
Registered User
- Location
- Salt Lake City
This is me. I do run ethanol free when I can. I use Mobil 1 synthetic every 5k. I do 5k interval on all my vehicles though.
I hear these motors like to eat spark plugs and hear people change them every 40k-50k. I did mine at 50k and am now at 116k. I could do them again and may on my next oil change if I do it myself because I am not killing myself with my rental
rholbrook
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Kaysville, Ut
I've had 2 sets of plugs and 2 sets of wires in 189K Still runs like a beast. It has been getting hot pulling but maybe its just because it was 105 out and I was doing 85-90 pulling my Rzr on a 22' trailer from St George to Kaysville. Either way, its getting the coolant flushed in the motor and transmission Friday. By the way, I have been getting an average of 17 mpg lately. Went up a little since my last tune 10K miles ago.
Put my two work ones in limp mode pulling up LCC from getting too hot. Then my Captain was upset when I left it idling when I arrived........ so next time I had to pull the trailer up LCC I shut it off with the needle pegged, I'm sure it was better for the motor vs idling for a few minutes with the fans and water pump on.
Interesting thing was I figured my second one with the 10 speed would help the overheating a bit since it wouldn't have to push the motor so hard. 4th was to steep in the 6 speed so it would hold 3rd at high rpm. The 10 speed would keep the RPM's way more in check but engine still got really hot, and the 10 speed tranny would get super hot as well. Ambient temp didn't seem to matter either, I nuked them at 20 degrees as well as 90 degrees on that climb.
I have done the fuel system/top clean cleaning. These engines are GDI (Gasoline Direct Injection) and they get a lot of carbon build up. Many TSBs have come out recommending the synthetic oils, some say do better gas, etc. But they still recommend these types of services every 15-30k IIRC. I have noticed a difference both times I have done mine. When I was coming back from Moab in May pulling the SXS, I developed a misfire (engine light on and flashing which indicts a cat damaging misfire). I pulled over, ran the codes on my gauge monitor (thank @cruiseroutfit) cleared them, and was able to get home without an issue. Just kept it out of heavy boost and was fine. I got home and replaced all the plugs, and coil boots (never knew when they were done last). Then did another fuel service on the engine.
Last edited:
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
We've had a couple issues with our '15 EcoBoost recently... it's just North of 90k miles now.
First thing was a bad throttle body, my wife was driving in town and the engine just shut off while driving in traffic. She freaked out, didn't really know what to do. Eventually put it in Park and it restarted just fine... continued to run for about 15 min, then did the same thing and she coasted to the side of the road this time. After a 3rd time and repeating the process, she got it home and was not happy. I was headed towards SLC for an RME Cleanup, but had to turn back and help her out. Hooked up my code scanner and found a code for a bad TB. Ordered a new factory Ford TB online, swapping out out was a simple operation, cleared the codes and it's back to normal! I feel like it may be a good idea to keep a new spare and tools in the glove box.
The second issue has been overheating while towing, the two turbo's have coolant running thru them to keep the operating temps down. I first noticed it last week, towing in 100* heat, pulling a long grade with the transmission in Tow mode and the transmission in 'D', so it's getting into 6th gear. What I've been noticing is when in a higher gear, RPM's are low and the turbos are spooled up building boost. The coolant temp was getting up to 245-250*'s and putting the truck into 'reduced power' mode to help keep the temps down. It really sucks when you're only pulling 40 MPH in a 65 MPH zone with a trailer.
If I manually shift down to 4th gear, the RPM's increase, boost pressure decreases and then temps begin to drop. I tossed a bottle of Water Wetter in the cooling system, hoping it would make a difference but it really didn't. We're about to leave on vacation towing a travel trailer and the truck is in the shop, getting a cooling system flush, new Ford water pump and thermostat. I really hope that takes care of the overheating issues or it's going to be a long, stressful trip.
First thing was a bad throttle body, my wife was driving in town and the engine just shut off while driving in traffic. She freaked out, didn't really know what to do. Eventually put it in Park and it restarted just fine... continued to run for about 15 min, then did the same thing and she coasted to the side of the road this time. After a 3rd time and repeating the process, she got it home and was not happy. I was headed towards SLC for an RME Cleanup, but had to turn back and help her out. Hooked up my code scanner and found a code for a bad TB. Ordered a new factory Ford TB online, swapping out out was a simple operation, cleared the codes and it's back to normal! I feel like it may be a good idea to keep a new spare and tools in the glove box.
The second issue has been overheating while towing, the two turbo's have coolant running thru them to keep the operating temps down. I first noticed it last week, towing in 100* heat, pulling a long grade with the transmission in Tow mode and the transmission in 'D', so it's getting into 6th gear. What I've been noticing is when in a higher gear, RPM's are low and the turbos are spooled up building boost. The coolant temp was getting up to 245-250*'s and putting the truck into 'reduced power' mode to help keep the temps down. It really sucks when you're only pulling 40 MPH in a 65 MPH zone with a trailer.
If I manually shift down to 4th gear, the RPM's increase, boost pressure decreases and then temps begin to drop. I tossed a bottle of Water Wetter in the cooling system, hoping it would make a difference but it really didn't. We're about to leave on vacation towing a travel trailer and the truck is in the shop, getting a cooling system flush, new Ford water pump and thermostat. I really hope that takes care of the overheating issues or it's going to be a long, stressful trip.
- Location
- Smithfield Utah
Sorry to hear that Greg. Not cheap but I wonder if a radiator upgrade would help you out?
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Performance Aluminum Radiator, fits Ford F-150 2015-2020
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My neighbor just upgraded to that radiator, a new intercooler and an exhaust on his EB. He said it would get hot pulling his little camp trailer. I was likeSorry to hear that Greg. Not cheap but I wonder if a radiator upgrade would help you out?
Performance Aluminum Radiator, fits Ford F-150 2015-2020
The Mishimoto performance aluminum radiator for the 2015-2020 Ford F-150/2017+ Ford Raptor is the ideal upgrade over the stock radiator.Whether your 2015-2020 Ford F-150 or Raptor is a daily driver, jobsite hauler, track destroyer, or all three, you should never overlook the importance of...
I've been meaning to ask him if he's happy with the results.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Sorry to hear that Greg. Not cheap but I wonder if a radiator upgrade would help you out?
Performance Aluminum Radiator, fits Ford F-150 2015-2020
The Mishimoto performance aluminum radiator for the 2015-2020 Ford F-150/2017+ Ford Raptor is the ideal upgrade over the stock radiator.Whether your 2015-2020 Ford F-150 or Raptor is a daily driver, jobsite hauler, track destroyer, or all three, you should never overlook the importance of...
So I just heard from the shop (Barney Brothers here in GJ) that the radiator was clogged with all kinds of gunk, externally! They were able to flush it out and it seems to be cooling like normal again. I'll need to hook up the trailer and verify that we're good to go.
I did a lot of reading on forums and this is a common issue, guys have replaced water pumps & thermostats and no fix. I did see that Mishimoto radiator and the increased cooling, but did read a post where a guy has installed that radiator and not long after install, one of the seams split and dropped all the coolant!