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FF D60 rear - 35 or 40 splines?

M

Meat_

Banned
Location
Lehi
James K said:
why all this work for a damn leased vehicle??? :rolleyes:
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Not to defend Wayne or anything.... He's leased because the bastard can write off 100% of the payment on his taxes vs interest on a loan payment. He always intended on buying it after the lease.....
 
P

PJTPW

Project Power Wagon
Location
Moab, Utah
Poly Performance carries a 40 spline ARB. I have heard that others are making it now, but I'm not sure who they would be.

IMO 40 spline is overkill. The 30 spline hold up pretty well, but I think 35 spline would be the best way to go.

As previously mentioned, you start running into $$ into spindles and hubs.

Ryan
 
Caleb

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
PJTPW said:
Poly Performance carries a 40 spline ARB. I have heard that others are making it now, but I'm not sure who they would be.

IMO 40 spline is overkill. The 30 spline hold up pretty well, but I think 35 spline would be the best way to go.

As previously mentioned, you start running into $$ into spindles and hubs.

Ryan
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yeah, I know Sandy Cone does the 40 spline ARB (and I think that's who Poly gets theirs from) but I believe its $1K+ with custom machine work on the case and (obviously) new custom side gears.
 
P

PJTPW

Project Power Wagon
Location
Moab, Utah
Yep, Cone broaches the side gears. - As well as annealing / heat treating.

Poly is selling it for 1200, but it's not hard to build one for a lot less. Just some leg work.

Ryan
 
420willys

420willys

Registered User
Location
holland mass yes its the east coast
why build a 60 with 35 spline when you can get a 70 or a 70U that has 35 spline factory, or just go 14 bolt. i run a 14 bolt in 3 years i never snapped a shaft with 39 iroks or the red lable krawlers. i think 40 spline axles are cool but for me way overkill, the shafts will live but whats next the ring and pinion, this is why i like the 14 or 70, bigger gears. if you realy want somthing bigger than 35 spline then look into a dana 80, they have 37 spline shafts still 1.5'' shafts but more splines, my 02 cents, jason.
 
waynehartwig

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Meat_ said:
Not to defend Wayne or anything.... He's leased because the bastard can write off 100% of the payment on his taxes vs interest on a loan payment. He always intended on buying it after the lease.....
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Exactly... And also, leasing saved me well over $5k compared to buying it - even at 1.9% interest. I also only make a $250 a month payment, instead of nearly $600 a month for 7 years with $6k down that it would have been before (or whatever it was, but you get the idea). It was $25k new. I have paid $9k over the life of the lease. The buy out at the end of the lease is just over $16k. Now I can either buy it out (which I will, as Meat said, I always intended to), sell it for more than $16k or finance it for $300 a month for 4 years. Most likely I will buy it out...
 
waynehartwig

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
420willys said:
why build a 60 with 35 spline when you can get a 70 or a 70U that has 35 spline factory, or just go 14 bolt. i run a 14 bolt in 3 years i never snapped a shaft with 39 iroks or the red lable krawlers. i think 40 spline axles are cool but for me way overkill, the shafts will live but whats next the ring and pinion, this is why i like the 14 or 70, bigger gears. if you realy want somthing bigger than 35 spline then look into a dana 80, they have 37 spline shafts still 1.5'' shafts but more splines, my 02 cents, jason.
Click to expand...

This is why I started the thread. I have a full width FF D60 out of a late 70's Scottsdale pu (he thinks it was). It already has GM brakes, 4.88 and 30 spline Detroit. It's originally out of a leaf sprung vehicle.

If I touch it, I wanted to know if I should go 35 or 40 spline. As it is right now, I could run it with the 4.88's even. 5.13's would be better, and probably where I will go.... But if I was going to do anything to it, it would be just as easy to go bigger than the 35. I know I would never break 35 spline axles. I may not have any issues with the 30's... After all, I still have a ~240hp 6 cyl 4.0....
 
James K

James K

NO, I'm always like this
Location
Taylorsville, Ut
waynehartwig said:
Exactly... And also, leasing saved me well over $5k compared to buying it - even at 1.9% interest. I also only make a $250 a month payment, instead of nearly $600 a month for 7 years with $6k down that it would have been before (or whatever it was, but you get the idea). It was $25k new. I have paid $9k over the life of the lease. The buy out at the end of the lease is just over $16k. Now I can either buy it out (which I will, as Meat said, I always intended to), sell it for more than $16k or finance it for $300 a month for 4 years. Most likely I will buy it out...
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you have some screwy math:confused: .........600.00 x 84 months = 50,400. that thing is way overpriced.

and if you paid 9k for the life of the lease and you going to buy it out right for 16k....................that still 25k.....:rolleyes:


I just wish you'd stop all your typing and build something already. hell, I thought you had alll these mad skills and all the hook-ups to go with the skills.
 
waynehartwig

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
James K said:
you have some screwy math:confused: .........600.00 x 84 months = 50,400. that thing is way overpriced.

and if you paid 9k for the life of the lease and you going to buy it out right for 16k....................that still 25k.....:rolleyes:


I just wish you'd stop all your typing and build something already. hell, I thought you had alll these mad skills and all the hook-ups to go with the skills.
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I said or something like that, maybe it was $400 a month. I don't remember the exact numbers, it was almost 3 years ago. But the final cost would have been closer to $35k than $25k after paying interest; plus I would have had a larger monthly payment; plus it would not have been tax deductable.

I'm gatherin' stuff right now. I want to have the axles (and done) before I start anything, because I want to be 100% sure on their widths before I start buying wheels, etc. I just recieved the front axle yesterday and sat it in front of the Jeep to compare widths and visualize more of how to triangulate the front end, and figure out tire placement and wheel offset. Right now I think a 0 offset (5" backspace) on a 16x10" wheel, will put the inside of the tire about where it was stock and stick out about 2" more than it does now. The front axle is ~69" WMS. The rear is supposed to be ~64.5". So now I want to make sure that the same 0 offset will work on the rear. I may have to go with a different offset and narrow the front about 2". This kind of stuff is much easier on customer's junk. They tell you I want 64" and blah blah blah.... And I'm trying to keep this as legal as possible.
 
Kiel

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
Well how much is this rear 60? Sounds like the upgrades the previous owner had done won't do you too much good. Unless it was super cheap and you could recoup your money buy selling these items easily
 
Jay5.9L

Jay5.9L

...I just filled the cup.
Location
Riverton
Or you could just sell it and get a custom axle made for you from one of the big companies. Have you done the math for the cost of upgrading vs. custom?
 
waynehartwig

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
WJ ZUK said:
Well how much is this rear 60? Sounds like the upgrades the previous owner had done won't do you too much good. Unless it was super cheap and you could recoup your money buy selling these items easily
Click to expand...

It was $950 to my door for a complete, ready to go FFD60, disc brake conversion, Detroit and 4.88's.
 
waynehartwig

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Jay5.9L said:
Or you could just sell it and get a custom axle made for you from one of the big companies. Have you done the math for the cost of upgrading vs. custom?
Click to expand...

The problem with the big companies, is none of them make a FF D60 and to my knowledge, the largest bolt pattern they work with is 6 lug.

I can build my own Rockcrusher high clearance HP axle for about $900 that would have 3"x.50" 4130 or 1026 tubes. But then you have to add in all of the locker, gears, etc. and all of that stuff that will nickle you to death - brakes... I think even if I took this D60 that I have, and put a 35 spline ARB, axles and 5.13's in it, I would still be under $2k and I'd still have a FFD60.
 
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