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Framing Nailers

BCGPER

BCGPER

Starting Another Thread
Location
Sunny Arizona
I have a Senco and a Hitachi. Both are great. The Senco is much heavier duty, and has more power for working with harder woods. The Hitachi is lighter, and easier to fit into tight places. If I just needed one, I'd go with the Hitachi.
 
RockMonkey

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
JoeT said:
Long enough, duh. :rolleyes: I don't remeber if I used 3 1/2" or 4", I'll have to look at what I have at home.
Click to expand...

It looks like you're supposed to use at least 2x the thickness of your lumber. So for 1 1/2" lumber, I need at least 3". Sound right?

Should I use 2x4s or 2x6s next to the foundation? I will be putting insulation in there, so do I need 2x6, or can I just use 2x4 and space it 2" away from the cement?
 
Herzog

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
RockMonkey said:
It looks like you're supposed to use at least 2x the thickness of your lumber. So for 1 1/2" lumber, I need at least 3". Sound right?

Should I use 2x4s or 2x6s next to the foundation? I will be putting insulation in there, so do I need 2x6, or can I just use 2x4 and space it 2" away from the cement?
Click to expand...

When we changed a few things in our framing, I believe we used 3 1/2" in our nailer. (which I borrowed, I can't remember the brand)

Use 2x4 around the foundation. Insulation will fit in the 2x4. There may be some spots that you will want to use 2x6 (around larger drain & sewer lines & such)
 
Herzog

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
I may be wrong, but I wouldn't space too far away from the cement. Make a straight wall and put it up against foundation. Chances are you wall will be straighter than your foundation in many places... if you picked out good lumber.
 
Bucking Bronco

Bucking Bronco

................
Location
Layton
I used 3.5" nails and 2x4, when I unsulated it the insulation is a looked like a tight fit but it fits.

Make sure you use pressure treated wood on the bottom
 
Badger

Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
Don't forget a vapor barrier between the foundation and insulation. 3" nails will do just fine. You shouldn't need more then 2x4 for the basement. They have a funny way of already being insulated by the ground. A normal basement usually stays at a consistent 60~65º
 
RockMonkey

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Good info! I'll use 3.5" nails, 2x4s on the outside walls, and pressure treated lumber for the base. It sounds like I need to create a vapor barrier between the sheet rock and the insulation.

Do I need to seal the concrete as well? I've never seen any water in the basement, but that doesn't mean much.

Do most people put in a sub-floor?

Can I just nail the sheetrock to the floor joists, or do I need to frame the ceiling as well?
 
RockMonkey

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Badger said:
Don't forget a vapor barrier between the foundation and insulation. 3" nails will do just fine. You shouldn't need more then 2x4 for the basement. They have a funny way of already being insulated by the ground. A normal basement usually stays at a consistent 60~65º
Click to expand...

The vapor barrier goes between the foundation and the insulation? What I've read indicates to me that the vapor barrier goes between the sheet rock and the insulation. It's supposed to keep warm air from getting into the insulation, condensing and mildewing. Do I need a vapor barrier between the concrete and the insulation?

This is what I've been reading:
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/basementremodels
 
Herzog

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
RockMonkey said:
Good info! I'll use 3.5" nails, 2x4s on the outside walls, and pressure treated lumber for the base. It sounds like I need to create a vapor barrier between the sheet rock and the insulation.
Click to expand...

I was told that in Utah you didn't need a vapor barrier if you used insulation with the right paper covering. Could be bad info though. I'm better at building buggies than I am with house crap. :rofl:

RockMonkey said:
Do most people put in a sub-floor?
Click to expand...

Not that I have ever heard of.

RockMonkey said:
Can I just nail the sheetrock to the floor joists, or do I need to frame the ceiling as well?
Click to expand...

Yes you can screw the drywall directly to the floor joists. There will probably be some sections that you will need to drop down and frame around though.
 
Bucking Bronco

Bucking Bronco

................
Location
Layton
I did not use a vapor barrier. From doing flood work I can tell you they are worthless in this state. We have a dry enough climate to where you dont need one and if you ever flood it causes 10X more problems if you have one.
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
I was going to type a reply, but it's pretty much identical to what Herzog said above, so I'll just ^^^^
 
Herzog

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
Also - if you want some help let me know. I could use the exercise. :ugh:

We haven't done anything to our basement since the texture. Waiting for after the holidays to order all the doors and everything else.
 
JoeT

JoeT

Well-Known Member
Location
Herriman
You need to come look at my basement. I have it in several differant stages, framed, framed/wired/insulated, and sheet rocked.
 
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