Gawynz Buggy Thread

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
Thanks @Herzog, maybe a winter Sand Hollow trip, we'll see.

3D printers are awesome, it's nice having access to one at work, but if I didn't it would be tempting to buy. If anyone is in the market, all I can say is the Lulzbot is a work horse... we run that thing all the time and it's never slowed down.
 

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
I've gotten a few things crossed off the list the last week or so...

My brakes have always been very soft and require a long pedal stroke, after some research (especially the brake bible) I believe my issue was a poor pedal ratio for a vacuum boosted brake setup. My pedal was at about a 7:1 ratio, where it should have been around 4:1. So I cut the lower mount point off the pedal, and extended it until I had a 4:1 ratio.

20191105_183257.jpg

20191105_192906.jpg

20191105_195009.jpg

Then modified the pedal/booster mount to lower the booster and master cyclinder ~1.25".

20191105_205117.jpg

20191107_181950.jpg

20191107_202256.jpg

The extension made a huge difference, the brakes feel much better, I should have fixed this a long time ago.

Found a file online and 3D printed some jack knobs haha.

knobs.JPG

So close on getting the buggy back together... Installed the new front limit straps, put the interior back in, cleaned up some wiring, set my final link lengths, bolt checked everything... Just need to do rear limit straps, hood, and mount the winch. Once I got to this point I used my old springs and got it set to it's new ride height. I threw a cooler and a bucket on the back filled with water to represent a full tank, tools, and a cooler, set the winch on the front, then got a couple people to sit in the buggy and measured spring compression to get my corner weights for ordering new springs.

20191110_193844.jpg

20191110_193858.jpg

20191110_193932.jpg
 

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
@I Lean, yeah thingiverse. Here's the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1059751

I tried to just attach the STL file but it's not letting me. When I opened the file in the slicing software it was in mm, if you have the same issue you'll just have to scale it by 25.4. I used PLA. It fits great, at first I thought it wasn't going to fit but if you take a hammer and tap it on the plastic deforms/presses right around it for a tight fit. Very convenient.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Got it, thanks! I have a welded-on thing for my press, but I need one of these for my engine hoist. :D
 

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
I want an insulated shop with heat... December - February I really slowed down on progress, tried working in the shop a bit but turns out I'm just too much of a pud. The weather this month has been really nice and I got back at it.

Finally got my suspension sorted out. A bit over a year ago @Greg recommended I reach out to Matt Bell at Desert Speed Shock Tuning if I needed work done on my coilovers and that turned out to be great advice. As I mentioned in earlier posts, when my coilovers were originally valved they were set up to have light compression and stiff rebound. I got with Matt and explained my rig and he worked to come up with a more appropriate valving stack; in addition to the valve change he rebuilt all four shocks and also added crossover rings to the front coilovers to allow me to run a duel rate setup. Working with Matt and DSST was an awesome experience; I got several quotes and he beat all of them, very responsive and took the time to understand what I was trying to accomplish, quick turnaround, local, and has followed up several times to ensure I was happy with the valving chosen. So there's the plug, if anyone is in the market for something similar I'd recommend DSST.

One issue I had with the amount of travel I'm after is avoiding spring coil bind, especially on the rear. After research/shopping I ended up going with Hyperco springs. Hyperco utilizes a "barrel" type design on their offroad springs and they also offer an "ultimate high travel" lineup of springs which I used on the rear. Looking at the pictures below you'll see barrel type profile which allows them to use further spaced coils, reduces coil buckling, and increases the amount the spring can be compressed prior to bind. I got three sets of springs real quick, but the fourth set took ~3 months due to a manufacturing issue, wasn't a problem seeing as how it was the middle of winter and I wasn't working much anyway.

Before:

20191206_131604.jpg

20191206_135549.jpg

After:

20200222_165041.jpg

20200222_171033.jpg

Packaging reservoirs is pretty tight up front.

20200308_104152.jpg

Rear limit straps installed.

20200309_204817.jpg

As part of this rebuild, I screwed up the electrical to the fan so that took about 4hrs to track down and fix which was irritating.

Trimmed skid plate to match frame mod to clear front driveshaft yoke.

I'm really happy with my spring selection which I was kind of nervous about. I utilized the old springs to get the load per spring on each corner which turned out to be very accurate. Then after a lot of research/calcs on duel rate setups I settled on 250#/350# front and 125#/200# rear. Once I installed the springs at zero preload the buggy settle to almost exactly what I'd calculated; both front and rear should only require ~2-3" of preload which is the range I was shooting for. I plan to run the crossover rings 2in above the slider at ride height on the front, and 3in in the rear.

Pulled the buggy out and took it for a trip around the block and that got me really excited to wrap this up! Even driving around the neighborhood I can tell how big of a difference the new springs/valving made. Also, correcting my brake peddle throw made a huge difference in stopping ability.

20200308_165135.jpg

20200308_165203.jpg

20200308_165214.jpg

Plan to mount the rear reservoirs tonight.

I found that due to my new coilvoer/limit strap axle side mounting on the rear my brake line routing was all screwed up. Parts/tools should come in next week and I'll be redoing the brake lines on the back half of the rig.

Still need to figure out winch mounting. I deleted the wishbone in the front and to mount the winch on the front of the chassis gets very tight, doable, but tight... What do people think about mounting the winch to the axle? Pros/cons?

Then... rockcrawl. I hope. ha.

Fingers crossed for more warm-ish weather.
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
It's looking real good, nice to see it back on the ground and driving around! Glad Matt @ DSST got you taken care of! I've never used him, but have heard @RockChucker talk nothing but good about the work Matt does.
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
Man that's looking awesome!

If you have room, I'd mount the winch to the axle. Keep the weight down low/unsprung. A lot of comp rigs used to do that back in the day (maybe they still do?)
 

RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
Yup. Matt is the man. Met him while helping a buddy crunch and slam a SEMA build together a few years back. After that it was all down hill from there! He took me for a rip in a Comanche he had tuned that felt so magical because it was so smooth. He made my Jeep do the same. Best money I have spent on my rig.
 

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
Thanks guys. I think I'd have plenty of room to mount the winch to the axle and I think it'd be much more securely mounted than mounting it to the chassis as I'm running out of room in that area. Also, I like the idea of mounting it to the axle because things line up a lot better to use it as a suck down winch. Just seems weird to mount it this way... but I can't really think of any reason it's a bad idea.

Thinking something like this.

Winch.JPG
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
You could probably feed the cable through the body of the winch if there were no hook on the end. (to switch back and forth from suck-down duty, to actual winch duty)
 
Top