Glockman's Rubi LJ

Updating the build thread after oh 7 years.

Specs
2006 Rubicon LJ
2003 5.3 LS
4l60E
NP241C with JB conversions SYE and 1310 flange
Novak Cable shifter.
Magnaflow exhaust
Swap details LS swap for the LJ


Teraflex lcg lift
Teraflex short front Upper control arms.
4" Teraflex springs
1" body lift and tummy tuck
Metal cloak track bars front and rear.
Teraflex Speed bumps Front and rear. Custom mounted in the frame on the rear. Details Here
Teraflex dual rate front sway bar.


Falcon TJ shocks
Currie Correctlync steering

37x12.50 R17 BFG KM2's on aluminum modular wheels.
1.25" Spidertrax wheel spacers

Factory lockers front and rear
4.88 gears
Chromoly shafts in the rear
RCV's up front
Teraflex HD diff cover on the front.
LCA skids


JCR Aluminum Hi lined fenders.
Currie front bumper with grill hoop
Warn 9.5Ti
Rear crusher corners (unknown brand)
Warn rock sliders.


Rigid 2x2 spots on Hella A pillar mounts
Amazon special LED headlights
LED tail lights -Tractor supply style
Sport cage


When I bought it
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360532065.388577.jpg


Current pic
20200830_161950.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
I'm pretty sure I've isolated the main drive train noise. I have some play in the rear CV joint, which should have been rebuilt when I had the shaft shortened for the LS. I'll get the U-joints replaced and see if that takes care of it.

When they were fixing my misfire issue, Just 4 Fun also mentioned that my control arm joints were sloppy. The TF Long arm kit has been on this jeep since 20K miles? It now has 114K. I rebuilt all the flex joint sides on all the arms around 100k miles but the rubbers are original.

I replaced the front axle side bushings last week and Davy got me some new frame side rubber bushings for the lowers this week. I'll get them installed soon and see if that eliminates another clunk.
 

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
I've been driving this quite a bit lately trying to get any bugs worked out prior to EJS. I replaced a front wheel bearing this week that was making a tiny bit of noise but it is the original with 115k miles on it. I'll carry the old one as a spare.

I also had to rewire a 4lo wire to the PCM after installing the new standalone LS harness. It was not shifting correctly in 4lo. All is well now.

I really love driving this thing. The V8 just puts a smile on my face now that the issue are worked out.

I think the next upgrade is going to be JK axles.
 

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
I would go straight to Super Duty axles.
I really don't want to add the weight. They are cheaper for sure.
Or spend the money on a JK Tera 44 front housing as the stock front housings are junk.
This is likely what I'll do. People want more for junk jk axles than Mopar performance wants for new ones. If you're going to replace everything on the axle but the housing, may as well start with an empty housing.
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
I really don't want to add the weight. They are cheaper for sure.

This is likely what I'll do. People want more for junk jk axles than Mopar performance wants for new ones. If you're going to replace everything on the axle but the housing, may as well start with an empty housing.
I love my Tera 44 HD housing, and I don't worry about it at all. I do worry about the rear, and it makes me wish I would have spent that $4k building SD axles.
 

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
I've been pricing Tera 44 housings and I am getting a bit of sticker shock.

I found a 76 Ford F150 HP dana44 that was cut to TJ width (60"). He has knuckles, hubs and some high steer parts (tubing and joints) but no carrier. for $500.

I'm thinking an Arctec truss, RCV's and Chevy brakes with an E or Air locker and possibly doing the Jance Jk4 kit.

Pros
Selectable hubs, cross over steering, bigger brakes, stronger housing with better clearance and stronger ring and pinion. Stronger bearings and ball joints. Light axle with good ground clearance on 37"s.

Con's
It's not a 60. It's the same width as the current axle.

I haven't broken a Rubi 44 so I must not be hard on things. This seems like a much cheaper way to go and still get a decent light weight axle for less than the insanity that JK 44's go for.

What am I missing?
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Are D44 ball joints any stronger than D30? (or TJ Rubi 44)

My main hangup with that "upgrade" is that you're still stuck with what is IMO the same weak spot--the axle U-joints. You do have a stronger, less bendy housing, but that's about it in my eyes.
 

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
Are D44 ball joints any stronger than D30? (or TJ Rubi 44)

My main hangup with that "upgrade" is that you're still stuck with what is IMO the same weak spot--the axle U-joints. You do have a stronger, less bendy housing, but that's about it in my eyes.
So I'm running RCV's in my current Rubi 44. I'd do the same in a HP44.
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
Is the weight difference between a HD44 and a SD60 really that significant? I mean when people upgrade to tons with a stock motor they aren’t always thrilled but you already have the motor swap part done! I just think if you’re going to invest money into axles they may as well be tons but I know this can become a sensitive subject
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Is the weight difference between a HD44 and a SD60 really that significant? I mean when people upgrade to tons with a stock motor they aren’t always thrilled but you already have the motor swap part done! I just think if you’re going to invest money into axles they may as well be tons but I know this can become a sensitive subject
I really hate to say this, I mean it literally hurts... But Nate is right. 🤷‍♂️
 

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
That takes care of that one. :)

Do you want to change wheel bolt patterns? IIRC you can't fit a 5x4.5 pattern around a D44 hub.
Going JK I'd change to 5 on 5.5. So that's a wash.

I really don't want tons. I think they are a couple hundred pounds heavier if I recall. Not to mention way wider unless I cut them down and way bigger pumpkins which eat ground clearance on 37's and eat power even with an LS. It undoes the power upgrade I just finished.

I really want to keep this rig light and streetable with moderate trail capabilities. I mean, it's the 69 Camaro of Jeeps :D
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Going JK I'd change to 5 on 5.5. So that's a wash.

I really don't want tons. I think they are a couple hundred pounds heavier if I recall. Not to mention way wider unless I cut them down and way bigger pumpkins which eat ground clearance on 37's and eat power even with an LS. It undoes the power upgrade I just finished.

I really want to keep this rig light and streetable with moderate trail capabilities. I mean, it's the 69 Camaro of Jeeps :D
The ball joints are the most obvious weak point on that axle. You could get crazy and do a knuckle/inner C swap. Thats a bunch of work though. Ball joint eliminators may help.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Going JK I'd change to 5 on 5.5. So that's a wash.

I really don't want tons. I think they are a couple hundred pounds heavier if I recall. Not to mention way wider unless I cut them down and way bigger pumpkins which eat ground clearance on 37's and eat power even with an LS. It undoes the power upgrade I just finished.

I really want to keep this rig light and streetable with moderate trail capabilities. I mean, it's the 69 Camaro of Jeeps :D
That's why I did the hybrid D44/D60 thing on my Cruiser. :) The width I wanted, the 60 U-joints/ball joints, and the smaller pumpkin. (with the Jantz kit to fit the D50 gears, and 35 spline shafts)
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
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