- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
I'll find out soon! I'm currently doing some tune up stuff and sourcing some missing evap stuff so I can plate it.
Gravy's Prerunner build
- Thread starter Gravy
- Start date
I'll find out soon! I'm currently doing some tune up stuff and sourcing some missing evap stuff so I can plate it.
BlueWolfFab
Running Behind
- Location
- Eagle Mountain
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Out with the old. In with the new.
It actually had HIDs in it before... But stock (ruined) housings.
These new ones are LED projectors. Can't wait to test them!
Spent a few hours cleaning this thing.
It actually had HIDs in it before... But stock (ruined) housings.
These new ones are LED projectors. Can't wait to test them!
Spent a few hours cleaning this thing.
BlueWolfFab
Running Behind
- Location
- Eagle Mountain
How good's the cage in this beast?
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
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- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Finally found some dirt. Works pretty good. I need to limit strap and add better bumps in the front, but I kinda already assumed that.
I also definitely need a tight limited slip or a locker. With no weight in the rear and 2wd it will hardly back up a downhill dirt road.
I also definitely need a tight limited slip or a locker. With no weight in the rear and 2wd it will hardly back up a downhill dirt road.
D
Deleted member 12904
Guest
What front suspension does it have?
What rear axle does it have? I'm kinda assuming 8.8...so maybe you just need this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mgr-ms88-28/overview/
Or this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mgr-ms88-31/overview/
If you're lucky enough that someone put a 9" under there, mini spools are RIDICULOUSLY cheap: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mgr-ms9-28/overview/
Or this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mgr-ms88-31/overview/
If you're lucky enough that someone put a 9" under there, mini spools are RIDICULOUSLY cheap: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mgr-ms9-28/overview/
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
You have now taken the crown for the most severe case of vehicular ADD on RME. Is there anything manufactured in the last 30 years with a motor that you don't currently or haven't owned in the last 12 months? At any rate, I dig the Pre Runner. I have a soft spot for Rangers. Auto sucks but I guess it works when you have a busted clutch foot.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
http://www.hmracingdesign.com/
HM upper A-arms and fabricated plate knuckles with uniballs. Ford lowers. Don't know what coils yet (but they're blue!) And Bilstein shocks.
8.8. Drums. Supposedly all 4.0L V6s have a 31 spline rear. (Smaller motor Rangers got a goofy smaller ring gear and 28 spline shafts in the 8.8 housing).
I think I'd rather get a Yukon locker than a minispool. I'm planning to drive this thing a little for work as it's a little easier on gas and parking than my 55' long 4 door longbed Super duty.
I haven't checked the ratio yet, but I may end up swapping to a later explorer rear to get discs, LS and 3.73s. (4.10 where an option).
Again I need to check the gears first. I could certainly use lower than stock with 33's.
And I need to fix the speedo, 98+ use a $10 vss/abs on the rear axle that reads a tone ring bolted between the ring gear and carrier.
I haven't had a lot of new (to me) automobiles... I got this to scratch the go fast itch while my left foot is borkeded.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
4.10's are usually available at a local junkyard. They weren't really common but they are around.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Supposedly 4.56s are available too.
Anyway the door tag says I have axle code 95 which means 3.55:1 8.8 open. There is no axle tag and haven't opened the diff so I can't know for sure.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_codes.shtml
Stock tire was a 225/70r14: so 26.4"
Running 33"s I would need 4.4375 to get back to stock. So 4.56 would be ideal.
Anyway the door tag says I have axle code 95 which means 3.55:1 8.8 open. There is no axle tag and haven't opened the diff so I can't know for sure.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_codes.shtml
Stock tire was a 225/70r14: so 26.4"
Running 33"s I would need 4.4375 to get back to stock. So 4.56 would be ideal.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
New bumpstops. Stocks were toast (left), I'm going to try the snubbers (middle) I got from Midnight 4x4 first. If they're no good I'll try these new stockers (right).
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Well, to my surprise...
31 spline Eaton Limited Slip and 4.10:1 gears!
(Part number)19588-1
EDB 39142
This is no stock crappy trac-lok. It's the $550 dollar aftermarket deal.
I'm going to try to order a rebuild kit from Six States on or at least a new clutch pack to tighten it up.
How to rebuild for my reference
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/rebuild-eaton-clutch-type-limited-slip-differential/
31 spline Eaton Limited Slip and 4.10:1 gears!
(Part number)19588-1
EDB 39142
This is no stock crappy trac-lok. It's the $550 dollar aftermarket deal.
I'm going to try to order a rebuild kit from Six States on or at least a new clutch pack to tighten it up.
How to rebuild for my reference
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/rebuild-eaton-clutch-type-limited-slip-differential/
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Fabtech coils 2.5"
New battery mount strap. Stock stuff broke.
New battery mount strap. Stock stuff broke.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Glassworks fenders. The passenger one was damaged. Looks like a tire blowout or something.
Anyways, it appears glassworks isn't in business anymore so buying a single fender from some other fiberglass vendor probably wouldn't match (not to mention I haven't found a vendor that will sell a single).
So rather than spend $400+ and wait a couple weeks on a new set, I'm going to attempt to learn a new skill and repair it. Worst case: I buy a new one.
Mesh to support the repair.
(These are big drywall repair patches with self stick fiber backing). I also used 3m spray adhesive to get them to stick better.
Sanded back the gelcoat and tapered the edges of the parent material.
Then 6 or 7 layers to get the thickness right. (I'll likely do a couple layers later on the backside to sandwich the mesh) Blending back 3 inches for strength.
Trim back the edge and buy some more sanding discs! and probably Bondo...
Anyways, it appears glassworks isn't in business anymore so buying a single fender from some other fiberglass vendor probably wouldn't match (not to mention I haven't found a vendor that will sell a single).
So rather than spend $400+ and wait a couple weeks on a new set, I'm going to attempt to learn a new skill and repair it. Worst case: I buy a new one.
Mesh to support the repair.
(These are big drywall repair patches with self stick fiber backing). I also used 3m spray adhesive to get them to stick better.
Sanded back the gelcoat and tapered the edges of the parent material.
Then 6 or 7 layers to get the thickness right. (I'll likely do a couple layers later on the backside to sandwich the mesh) Blending back 3 inches for strength.
Trim back the edge and buy some more sanding discs! and probably Bondo...
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- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Raise your hand if you've ever been stuck while doing donuts in the snow in parking lot at the "B."
Sure was pretty though.
The 3-year-old heading to Everest.
Sure was pretty though.
The 3-year-old heading to Everest.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Glass and shaping done.
The horizontal body line was tricky to work back in, but I think I was successful.
And I accidentally tagged my finger with the sander while working the glass. Pain.
Paint and clear. Unfortunately it's so cold I have to run an electric heater in my painting area and I think it was aimed at the fender between a couple coats because I've got a few areas where it must have flashed the paint- it looked really good in color, but as soon as I laid down the clear it went orange peal in a few spots almost immediately. So I'll be sanding it back and redoing a large portion of it. Then wet sand and reclear. But from 10 feet it's a 10 lol!
The horizontal body line was tricky to work back in, but I think I was successful.
And I accidentally tagged my finger with the sander while working the glass. Pain.
Paint and clear. Unfortunately it's so cold I have to run an electric heater in my painting area and I think it was aimed at the fender between a couple coats because I've got a few areas where it must have flashed the paint- it looked really good in color, but as soon as I laid down the clear it went orange peal in a few spots almost immediately. So I'll be sanding it back and redoing a large portion of it. Then wet sand and reclear. But from 10 feet it's a 10 lol!
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- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Six States got my Eaton LS rebuild kit.
I chose the 14 disc carbon fiber clutch pack made by Eaton over the Yukon part, and I think the springs I have are 400lb.
The cross shaft retainer bolt was rounded. So out comes the welder and a sacrificial 5/16" socket.
the clutch pack wasn't worn completely out and probably could have been reshimmed, but I wouldn't have know without taking it all apart 1st.
This is odd. A chunk was broken out of this spacer shim. (These go between the carrier and the case to set the ring left to right). I can't imagine it could break during normal wear? My best guess is someone cracked it installing it with a hammer.…? And didn't care to replace it. I don't see a huge problem with it broken from a functional standpoint, but I'll replace it for piece of mind.
This cross shaft however is toast. Surprisingly the spider gears are fine.
It's all ready to go, hopefully I can find a new cross shaft and spacer shim tomorrow.
I stuck an axleshaft in and tried to turn it unsuccessfully with a 4ft. Crowbar. Perfect!
I chose the 14 disc carbon fiber clutch pack made by Eaton over the Yukon part, and I think the springs I have are 400lb.
The cross shaft retainer bolt was rounded. So out comes the welder and a sacrificial 5/16" socket.
the clutch pack wasn't worn completely out and probably could have been reshimmed, but I wouldn't have know without taking it all apart 1st.
This is odd. A chunk was broken out of this spacer shim. (These go between the carrier and the case to set the ring left to right). I can't imagine it could break during normal wear? My best guess is someone cracked it installing it with a hammer.…? And didn't care to replace it. I don't see a huge problem with it broken from a functional standpoint, but I'll replace it for piece of mind.
This cross shaft however is toast. Surprisingly the spider gears are fine.
It's all ready to go, hopefully I can find a new cross shaft and spacer shim tomorrow.
I stuck an axleshaft in and tried to turn it unsuccessfully with a 4ft. Crowbar. Perfect!